What a weather change – and for the better. At 4am the sun was shining so brightly that Al thought it was time to make tea. His body convinced him to lie a little longer. It was still shining when we left at about ten. This was to be grand tunnel day so for me there existed an element of uneasy anticipation. Underground was no problem but 3.5 km of 1 in 8 was a tad daunting. It was head down and think of something nice – like swimming with dolphins. Not entirely successful – it still hurt a lot. Optimistically I thought that was the hard work done. Nooo. In a car the road would be described as rolling, on a bike free of trailer it would be undulating, with laden trailers it was mountainous! However, cheery motorcyclists who waved enthusiastically, while no doubt thinking daft buggers, encouraged our endeavour and the ice cream van who played his little tune made my day. Why anyone north of the Arctic Circle would want ice cream is another debate altogether.
The views were awesome (an over used word but in this case true).The majesty of the hills speckled with gently roving reindeer, the blue of the fiord and the contrast afforded by the snow was magical. The only tiny downside was the 20 km headwind which seemed less of a tiny downside the longer we cycled. We are still trying to decide the fate of the owner of an abandoned pair of skis on the other side of the road to an abandoned snowmobile. Answers on a postcard please.
Tantrum time arrived at about 50km when my rucksack turned into my dire enemy (too heavy and making my neck ache). My hero came to my rescue and tied the offending object to the trailer. Tantrum over, we covered the final six km in fine fettle. Nobody told us Norway is only half open in May, so we were a little dismayed to find a half open hotel. However, after much sighing and head scratching, our hostess found us a cabin (more like a small guest house in its own right), provided breakfast to go in our fridge until the morning. The amount of food was sufficient for our evening meal as well, so we dined like kings. Our cabin hovers over the fiord supported on stilts but thankfully the tide is out, and anyway, tied up nearby are several fishing boats in various stages of dilapidation although I am sure they are all very seaworthy!
Have to report lungs, legs and bum only slightly better than yesterday despite my optimism for a Lance Armstrong moment. Maybe tomorrow?