tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82910679001265471272024-03-13T22:20:07.614+01:00Old Bones on Bikes17,000 Kms of Cycling in EuropeMary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.comBlogger252125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-90692578830664731282020-10-10T11:44:00.000+02:002020-10-10T11:44:38.184+02:00Little Rides (during the pandemic)<p> We had planned a couple of big rides for this year but travel restrictions due to covid 19 has forced us to postpone them until the world is a little less unsettled. We've kept fit on the spin bikes during total lockdown here in France and, later in the summer, enjoyed some short rides. This is one of the more interesting: (Ed.)</p><p><span style="background-color: white; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt;">Ride along the river Lot. September 2020</span></p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">As with many of our rides, long and short, the inspiration for them appears out of the ether. In this case, it was the ether of Hans’ campsite. During a recent visit to Coursavy in September, we were discussing with Hans his up coming cycle tour into the Pyrenees. For reasons, which still elude me, he suggested that we join him for the first few days. Did he realise how slowly we rode? Protest, it seemed was a waste of energy as he acceded to our request that he would have to pedal more conservatively or risk riding alone. Thus, in principle, we agreed and the practical details would be worked on.</p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">For those of our readers who are unacquainted with our friend Hans, allow me to introduce the man. He is the ever resourceful owner of camping Coursavy who is also an all round cyclist with bikes for every occasion – racing, mountain riding, and touring. He is also fit and a decade younger than we are, so you may understand our reluctance to accompany him on any ride! Nonetheless that is what we did.</p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">A couple of weeks later on Monday the 22nd September, we arrived in Cajarc by car with two touring bikes on the back plus appropriate bits and bobs in panniers and Hans arrived by bicycle from home with a lot more bits and bobs and full camping gear. Not so Old Bones, we were booked into the local hotel for bed and breakfast! Under our bemused gaze, Hans erected his very expensive tent and organised his campsite. We wandered back to luxury, took the bikes off the car and unloaded the panniers, having agreed to meet later to find a suitable eatery for the evening.</p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">Despite my grumbling reluctance, we ensconced ourselves in the local pizzeria where, it has to be said, the pizzas were excellent. I chanced to be paying our bill at the same time as the group who had been sharing our verandah (a noisy bunch it has to be said). The survey of a cave system on the back of their T shirts proclaimed them as cavers exploring locally. I mentioned in passing that in the dim and distant past, we had explored caves in South Wales amongst others. This throwaway comment was noted by our host and as I returned to our table we were treated to a rendition of the Welsh National anthem over the tannoy! Where did he get that from?!</p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"></p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">Tuesday 23.09.2020</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NXRshc2t_0E/X4F_BlQR2zI/AAAAAAAABHQ/aIxxjLU3q30_ntsHYfGUpEaDL2USJixOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200922_092350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NXRshc2t_0E/X4F_BlQR2zI/AAAAAAAABHQ/aIxxjLU3q30_ntsHYfGUpEaDL2USJixOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20200922_092350.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-idvlUHRzXrY/X4GAA4cYN3I/AAAAAAAABHg/PFGrXG5TlHkbECOtL6aiHEO35wRAHYwBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200922_092100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-idvlUHRzXrY/X4GAA4cYN3I/AAAAAAAABHg/PFGrXG5TlHkbECOtL6aiHEO35wRAHYwBQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20200922_092100.jpg" /></a></div><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><span style="font-size: 11pt;">We should have expected that any ride with Hans would be unconventional and we were not to be disappointed. The rain was pouring down as we ran for breakfast, for which we do not hold Hans responsible, but we do hold him responsible for virtually everything which followed! Delay and hope the rain passed, as it was forecast to do by 10.00, was not an option so we loaded wet bikes with wet panniers and felt the water dripping down necks! Seemingly confident, Hans led the way along the river in the now fine weather (it was now nearly 10.00). Confronted by very substantial looking gates, our way forward was unclear. It was true that a very narrow path ran outside the gates along the fence line. This in turn led to what can only be described as little short of a cliff-face. Not only was the way on very, very steep and definitely unrideable, it was also very, very wet and very, very slippery. Sensible folk would have back tracked! But nooo……. Not us. We pushed the lightest bike up first. A more accurate description of our ascent would be a scrabble assisted by hanging onto a metal fence. Sadly the metal fence ran out halfway up and underfoot turned into a muddy quagmire adding to the scrabbling element. The second bike followed in similar fashion. The third, which belonged to Hans and was by far the heaviest was viewed with even greater misgivings than the previous two. It has to be mentioned at this point that we were following the Pilgrim Route to Compostelle (for walkers) and Alan had already fallen foul of a lady, probably a nun, by using appropriate but inappropriate international expletives. However, the next three pilgrims were sturdy chaps, who once recovered from their mirth, assisted the final push and we all arrived on the roadside. We had completed just over 1 km in an hour! The road would have taken about ten minutes! And we had probably depleted much of our energy resources for the day! Possibly not Hans!</span></p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">The weather remained fine and we enjoyed some excellent cycling and views of the gorge and the river. We also maintained a reasonable speed and did not suffer the indignity of watching Hans disappear into the distance. By mid-afternoon we had enjoyed a coffee stop and a leisurely lunch/ sandwich stop on the banks of the river while we worked out a route which avoided the drilling on the cliffs that was going on along the cycle route. We had covered a commendable distance of some 80 kilometres when the sunshine faded, black clouds rolled in dumping huge raindrops. And I mean huge! Visibility reduced to the piece of road immediately in front of the wheel and we were soaked to knicker level. As we turned a corner for Prayssac the cry of ‘bus shelter’ was just audible. A roof and a seat – what luck. So three soggy souls sat and watched the road become a river. (It is at times like this, that company is so beneficial). Following a shivery twenty minutes or so, the drops were less huge and the river was going down so we remounted and continued to Prayssac for about 400mtres! We had seen the route barre sign but on a bike it is usually easy to get around. BUT not with Mr. Health and Safety in charge. MUCH too dangerous to negotiate the large machines and sloppy road surface but the diversion was only an extera 500m . Mmmm…… Tell that to three very wet and tired cyclists. We meekly turned round and followed the diversion.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S-9exjrHSVg/X4GAeEuL0TI/AAAAAAAABHo/v-TqDIa4AhkzbwVDZQ5FPRWmSgoQNhn7gCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200922_104027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S-9exjrHSVg/X4GAeEuL0TI/AAAAAAAABHo/v-TqDIa4AhkzbwVDZQ5FPRWmSgoQNhn7gCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20200922_104027.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">At this point Old Bones were looking forward to a pre-booked B&B. Hans was looking (not forward) to a cold and wet night under canvass! Would there be a vacancy for a third person in the B&B?! There was. And so after 95 kms we three dismounted in a heap on sodden clothing deposited on the floor of the garage which was complete with drying machine and hanging space. How good was that. In little more than our underwear, we climbed the stairs to the main house and a very welcome beer.</p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">We had all been keeping a keen eye on the weather forecast which was less than encouraging. Wet and cold on a bike is not fun despite what some may say and so the forecast for Friday, which was abysmal, was causing some concern. Wednesday’s ride was expected to be well over 100kms which would make our return to Cajarc on Thursday and Friday some 200 kms in very inclement conditions. So we hatched a cunning plan. We would ride with Hans for 40 to 50 kms then return to Prayssac and our delightful B&B while he would continue south and thus we could avoid a Friday ride of around 100 kms in the lashing rain and wind!</p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">It worked perfectly and, although the weather was less horrible than expected, the slightly more leisurely pace allowed us to take in more of the picturesque countryside than on the way out. In fact, the route that Alan’s Gpx file followed was quite unlike the one we had followed with Hans and we found ourselves on fewer roads and more numerous greenways. A bit further but certainly more relaxing .</p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">We spent Thursday night in Cahors, a famous and beautiful city; a place that one would expect to house a plethora of hotels. It did. However, the one that Al had earmarked for our overnight was unsuitable. As ever, we needed a secure space for the bikes. The reception I received was desultory at best and rude at worst. Despite having numerous outbuildings, this hotel had no room for two bikes except in the car park! Over the years and kilometres we have travelled, it is often the larger towns which are the least accommodating. We did, however, locate a bike friendly hostel just a few minutes walk from the bustling commercial and restaurant centre. Still busy despite covid.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fuFFZnXMu-s/X4GBo1Gc4gI/AAAAAAAABH0/qY0R0KFpZSky5d0EaS-GqHSiGvahYetgQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200925_130359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fuFFZnXMu-s/X4GBo1Gc4gI/AAAAAAAABH0/qY0R0KFpZSky5d0EaS-GqHSiGvahYetgQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20200925_130359.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">Continuing our return to the car the following day, we took care to avoid the steep incline (decline) of our first day and stuck with the descent of the road into Cajarc. The weather forecast had been a little ambitious is its forecasting of unremitting rain and wind for Friday and although it was wettish, the wind was behind us for most of the twisting and turning of the route along the river. Still, better to err on the side of caution as we approach old age.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uCrk0FGg_VE/X4GCH7366zI/AAAAAAAABH8/u_BlTYsGdWQZIDNbxeI-hadOEMNgmouugCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/20200925_130410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uCrk0FGg_VE/X4GCH7366zI/AAAAAAAABH8/u_BlTYsGdWQZIDNbxeI-hadOEMNgmouugCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20200925_130410.jpg" /></a></div><br /><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;"><br /></p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">We had enjoyed our little excursion and as the weather continued to deteriorate over the next week(s) we felt that our decision to curtail our journey (we had planned a route through Bordeaux and home) was probably a wise one if a bit disappointing. Hans, on the other hand, had planned to be away for some three weeks. After two further days he was not responding to his phone (it had unsurprisingly died a death from wetness) and we were anxious as to where he was. It transpired that he had spent time in the hospital with a suspected heart attack! Thankfully, it turned out to be a serious urinary infection which was masquerading as a heart condition. It is likely that the weather conditions rendered a pleasant cycling holiday null and void and a return home for him was the best option. A little less angst would not have gone amiss though!</p><p class="ox-3f5b8c1295-MsoNormal" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: content-box; color: #444444; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 1.4em; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">Never let it be said that our excursion are uneventful! Indeed, it is the uncertainty and unfolding of events that provide the on going fascination of our rides. We continue to meet so many different people and experience vast ranges of environments, not all pleasant and many very challenging, but ultimately, all of them enriching our lives. It is all such fun and long may it continue! We consider ourselves very privileged and fortunate to enjoy good health and quality bikes!</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-66735802353063740532019-10-10T12:20:00.000+02:002020-01-23T16:08:19.481+01:00<br />
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Wednesday 2<sup>nd</sup> October 2019<o:p></o:p></div>
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Xanten – Wolfheze Holland<o:p></o:p></div>
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88kms<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UuBzHebCc5U/XZ8FjE9AT6I/AAAAAAAABDs/hjtqX7dLknokTwVovY5aD6SGqVMS5iX6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20191004_193005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UuBzHebCc5U/XZ8FjE9AT6I/AAAAAAAABDs/hjtqX7dLknokTwVovY5aD6SGqVMS5iX6wCLcBGAsYHQ/s200/20191004_193005.jpg" width="150" /></a>I signed off the blog yesterday in the expectation that the
final 68!? Kms would be without incident, merely a formality in reaching our
destination. How fickle is fate?<o:p></o:p></div>
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We woke to the clanking of scaffolding being erected on the
building next door to our hotel ( a very noisy operation) BUT the sun was
shining. Al had mentioned quite casually, that winds today would be blowing
from the north but not to worry they were not expected to be very strong.
WRONG! We were to battle with a nostril wind gusting at up to 30 or 40 mph and
consistently whooshing at about 20. This was unpleasant and very hard work – a bit
like riding through treacle. As if the winds were not bad enough, some joker
had decided to dig up a vital part of our route with scant mention of a 7kms
detour – the second of the day! Lunch time was spent catching fleeing bun bags
as the wind strength continued to rise.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3ZpET0EhrHg/XZ8FvB2ZabI/AAAAAAAABD0/S_nR4Dcgm7Yjar8equazzCEB_G_8xbyzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20191002_092252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3ZpET0EhrHg/XZ8FvB2ZabI/AAAAAAAABD0/S_nR4Dcgm7Yjar8equazzCEB_G_8xbyzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20191002_092252.jpg" width="240" /></a>Undaunted (well, maybe a bit), we arrived at the first ferry
of the day and a piece of good luck. We would only have to wait for 30 minutes
instead of the 2 hours we would have had to wait had we arrived just 31 minutes
later. (Winter timetable – they all seem to start in October) Be vigilant. A
second ferry crossing, this time a continuous toing and froing, and we reached
Arnhem and faced the usual dilemma of which of the five or six roads we should
take at the junction. Al’s machine and the wind direction concurred and we
headed north.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Now, along with many folk, we had been led to believe that
Holland was a flat land except (yes, you have guessed it) for Arnhem! Not big
hills but after 75 kms of a gruelling ride we had to call on our rapidly
reducing reserves and , with some considerable relief, found signs for
Wolfheze. An hour later and 20 or so kms
longer than we planned, we were welcomed by the guardian of the camp site and
collapsed into the chalet of friends where we planned to take a day off and
leave the bikes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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NB. As points of
interest go on this journey, none was more obscure than the nuclear power
station that was built and never commissioned as a result of the Chernoble disaster. Built at great cost, it is now a
theme park sporting many attractions but shut at the time of our passing.
Enterprising though.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We have now really done with our ride down the river Rhine.
It has proved to be one of our favourite routes with a huge variety of urban
and rural scenery. The GPX files have been excellent as an accurate and
comprehensive source of route finding even though it has sometimes been
difficult to know exactly which country we have been in as frontiers are not
even a line in the sand.( Thanks to the EU!!!) Nonetheless the differing
cultures, languages, history and diets have been a constant source of education
and interest. And , as ever, we have met so many lovely people. So, where next?<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nRl8Y78vU9U/XZ8FqnAiakI/AAAAAAAABDw/cFtn5D1tQXcL9VGF-7bHT8EKThvIkOjLACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20191005_155049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nRl8Y78vU9U/XZ8FqnAiakI/AAAAAAAABDw/cFtn5D1tQXcL9VGF-7bHT8EKThvIkOjLACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20191005_155049.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rotterdam Market Hall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TcskjcR1yeE/XZ8FwA6SjMI/AAAAAAAABD4/CBOmlhYH0mUeLuM7-RUo4rxSvq1sXCIzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20191005_155806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TcskjcR1yeE/XZ8FwA6SjMI/AAAAAAAABD4/CBOmlhYH0mUeLuM7-RUo4rxSvq1sXCIzwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20191005_155806.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-58795098846463426162019-10-01T17:40:00.000+02:002019-10-01T17:46:39.694+02:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VVngNhCSw1M/XZNzE5vl23I/AAAAAAAABDI/EmZmvgvkgJgGHwlzrY7Z7UtBtAUgj8jjACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/20190930_122123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VVngNhCSw1M/XZNzE5vl23I/AAAAAAAABDI/EmZmvgvkgJgGHwlzrY7Z7UtBtAUgj8jjACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/20190930_122123.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Monday 30th September - Tuesday 1st October</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Dormagen - Wittlaer via Dusseldorf</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wittlaer - Xanten via Duisberg</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Total 120 kms</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I don't know about where you are, but autumn has well and truly arrived in this part of Germany. Leaves festoon road and paths alike in a carpet of bronze and yellow. Very high winds have added twigs an even small branches to the melee.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We cut short our day yesterday. We had shared a really lovely bottle of white wine with dinner the previous evening but paid for the pleasure by experiencing a very disturbed night's sleep. So not feeling all that refreshed at the start of the ride, conditions deteriorated and our resolve with them. Very, very windy and with the river, and thus our route, continually changing direction, the gusts were wobbly strong. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">So we did the only sensible thing - found a room, bought some grub from the supermarket (no wine!) munched our way through supper and collapsed into a comatosed sleep.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is always one shite day and this was ours.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">What a difference a good night's sleep can make. Bursting with energy this morning (maybe a bit of an overstatement) we even managed and earlier than normal start. The weather was already looking ominous, as in grey and drizzly, when we set off. Ten kms or so saw us on the outskirts of Duiseberg. We knew from perusing the map that this was going to be an awkward city traverse. What we hadn't banked on was the cloudburst that had us soaked through in a matter of minutes. Really, really wet - knickers, vests, everything. Still, such is life and Wales could show Duiseberg rain a thing or two so we peddaled or puddled along.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The city was as complicated as we had expected but enlightened and enlivened by an addition to our twosome into a threesome by a meeting with Jana. This young lady was completing a year of travelling alone throughout Europe with her bike and enough luggage to sink a battleship. Riding with a chatty companion relieved the angst of the navigation and proved more than useful when we met up with two German riders coming towards us who explained through our new friend, that the bridge ahead was impassable. Clearly nothing could thwart Jana and between her and Master Navigator, we were only momentarily misplaced. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Leaving the city behind, we were now into big sky country which was also big wind country! Jana left us after about 30 kms to cross the river and continue with her journey to see her father. It had provided an enlightening interlude and her company and conversation were much appreciated. We do wish you well, Jana.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">If all goes to plan, tomorrow should see us arrive at the Chalet of Hans and Bert and the end of this ride.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I hope you have enjoyed my ramblings and look forward to your company on our next trip where ever it may be.</span></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-74069004368404734712019-09-29T18:06:00.000+02:002019-09-29T19:05:17.424+02:00<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And he's paddling upstream!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Sunday 29th September 2019</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bad Breisig - Dormagen via Bonn and Koln</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">93kms (Aided by a whizzy wind for much of the ride - Hooray)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Today has been most notable for its extraordinary variety, in terms of places and weather. The first 12 kms or so completed the scenic section of this part of the Rhine. Bonn followed rapidly and we were once again admiring churches and architectural wonders while weaving our way between the weekend runners, push chairs and wanderers. It all continued for so long that I thought maybe Bonn and Koln had become conjoined twins. But not so. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">In fact, we reached Koln some twenty plus kms further along the river and if we though Bonn was crowded Koln reached new heights. Being a Sunday and with the weather set fair at that moment, most of the city seemed to have migrated to the river side. Along its banks, the markets plied their trade and the density of bodies made it impossible to make headway on the bikes, so we walked. (gave my bum time to readjust). We did get a view of the cathedral although much of it was covered in scaffolding. Must be us - the same was true of Santiago when we arrived there! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Thus far we had enjoyed the beauty of nature, of man's ingenuity on the construction front and now we were confronted with man's ingenuity on the industrial front. For many kms the banks of the river consisted of factories of staggering proportions. I have no idea what they produced with exception of Ford (cars, I suppose). As these installations require the barges to moor alongside the river bank, we cyclists were diverted inland for some distance. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">During the day, the weather has been as variable as the scenery, one minute sunshine, then rain, then lots of wind! And to continue with the theme of variety, I got yet another puncture (no idea how) but it was in the back tyre! Need to keep Master Mechanic on his mettle! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We had taken the precaution of booking ahead so no panic this time about finding a bed for the night.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">This river is an endless source of interest - what more awaits?</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Koln and a lot of industry</td></tr>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-75685314221564559392019-09-27T18:11:00.002+02:002019-09-28T18:37:52.255+02:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Friday 27th - Saturday 28th September</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Nierstein - Bacharach </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Bacharach - Bad Breisig via Koblenz</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Total kms 164 (and the last ten nearly killed me!)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Weather was pretty grim yesterday and our start wasn't much better. Everything stopped at an horrendous main road so we knew we had missed something. After five minutes of leaving the hotel, we had been lost and found. Pleasant wander through the vineyards then along the river to Mainz. Another city of grand architecture and quite a few people! Searched out an excellent cake shop where the owner clearly felt sorry for this misfortunate foreigner who understood no German, and presented me with a present of extra cake, free. So many nice folk around. Traverse of Mainz was going really well until we were halted by a very high fence, beyond which a new huge road bridge was being constructed, and no way forward for two hapless cyclists. Never beaten for long, we found an alternative .</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The scenery was changing rapidly as we entered the Rhine Gorge from flat plains to steep rock walls and vineyards clinging to the hillside. Pretty villages followed one after the other and so intrigued were we by all this, we took the wrong ferry across the river. Al was totally bemused by his magic machine having gone bonkers until we realised our error! Navigation experts! Huh!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Retired for night in another touristy village and enjoyed a supermarket meal on our medieval balcony at the top of four flights of spiral stairs! Good view though.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">So on to today. It is clear why all the tourist visiting the Rhine would want to wander along this bit. It historically interesting as well as being very picturesque. As ever, many people can spoil some of the natural beauty and the particularly ugly river cruisers (my very subjective opinion) of which there are many, do nothing to enhance the river traffic. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Koblenz with its magnificent fortified hillside town and cable car came and went as we weaved our way through the mindless throng. We passed Die Lorelei which looks like most of the cliffs along the gorge but some foresightful soul in the past has used the legend to draw in the crowds - clever stuff!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It has been a thoroughly pleasant ride, all dry and some sunshine. Met up with nostril wind towards 70kms (very bad timing) but had to keep going to avoid the overcrowding of accommodation in the honey pots. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lovely B&B and no crowds.</span></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-34982322272919002762019-09-26T20:56:00.000+02:002019-09-26T21:02:36.206+02:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wednesday 25th - Thursday 26th September</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Drusingen - Dudenhofen</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Dudenhofen - Nierstein</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Total distance - 201kms</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As we rode along yesterday, I was becoming increasingly concerned that there would be little to comment on. The banks (dykes)) on either side were unremittingly green with occasional glimpses of the real river and it's traffic. However, I need not have been overly concerned, as at around four in the afternoon the sh one t hit the fan. We had reached Germershein which is where we had planned to stop for the day. We found the first hotel and I found I had a flat tyre! Hid in a little corner for Al to carry out necessary tube change. Atmosphere a little testy but half an hour saw me riding again! Repair man extraordinaire.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We returned to our original intent, which was to find a bed for the night. Over an hour later we had exhausted all the options in town and took the decision to head for Lingenfeld some eight kms further on. Story was the same - all full! I had the great good fortune to receive unconditional help from a couple of youngsters in the final hotel. Sensing my anxiety ( it was now gone six and getting dark) they made copious phone calls on my behalf, all with the same response, full! </span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; text-decoration-line: underline; text-decoration-skip-ink: none; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">U</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">ntil finally a positive response from an hotel in Dudenhofen some 18 kms further again. No option but to book the room, fix the lights to the bikes and ride like f…… By 07.30, we had taken the fastest shower ever and sat down to a meal.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Quite tired last night!!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Today, we had no intention of repeating punctures or lack of accommodation so designed a cunning plan to call ahead and book. That being the case the last 20kms were not ridden at lightning speed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It has been a pretty gloomy day both in terms of weather (rain) and the scenery or lack of. There have been some very beautiful sights in the towns of Ludwigshafen and Worms which boast some fabulous architecture but much of our route ran next to the river. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">An interesting aspect of travelling with push bikes, is that we often see the beautiful and the not so beautiful. The latter, though, are providing the wherewithal, in order that society may function efficiently. Mind you, notices informing you that you are entering a danger zone and should the alarm sound you should move calmly away from the installation - (run like hell, more like) are a bit scary. No siren and we are still here to tell the tale but sobering nonetheless.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We are back on the banks of the Rhine now in a pretty place, looking forward to a bit more of the wet stuff tomorrow on our continuing Trek.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Viking River Cruise</td></tr>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-67255712392180461522019-09-24T17:00:00.003+02:002019-09-24T18:21:11.408+02:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Monday 23rd - Tuesday 24th September 2019 </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Kembs - Sundhouse</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Sundhouse - Drusenheim via Strasbourg</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Around about 160kms</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It was going to be difficult to find anything really interesting to say on the cycling front as, for the most part, on the early part of these two days, all we had seen were trees, trees, the odd bird and the canal. Actually, a "canal " might be to give it airs; it was a murky channel into which half the riverbank trees seemed to have toppled.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">However, as with everyday, something occurs to make it memorable. The choice of accommodation for the night in Kembs was limited to one - a B&B with a restaurant. Grand. The room was in a badly converted attic but boasted all the essentials. Our host was full of bonhomie so any shortcomings were easily overlooked. Not wishing to scour the village for an eating place, we reserved a table in the restaurant. Whatever the room lacked, the food made up for in spades. It was exquisite. It was expensive but a real and unexpected treat. The place was Michelin starred but in such an incongruous setting, small and inconspicuous.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Still on the subject of places to stay, Al had seen mention of a gite/chalet on the canal side in Sundhouse (we are on Monday night now!) We found the chalet but no means of access so poddled off into town to see if there was an alternative. A brasserie presented itself as a possible source of information. Sitting quaffing beer were our two compatriots from several days ago! After some faffing which I won't bore you with, the proprietor of said brasserie called a friend who said she could fix us up and would collect us in a while. So we shared a beer with Sean and Dave (yes they do have names) and sure enough madam duly arrived with the inevitable "follow me". We followed her beginning to expect where we were going. Yup, back to the chalet which was excellent. Joined the chaps for evening supper and so ended another interesting, dry and warm day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">However, by today, the canal has morphed into a vast river with massive barges moving tons of coal or rubble or something similar. The bankside has provided a playground for little creatures that were either water rats or very young coipu? (really not sure of that spelling). Going has been a mix of gravel and blacktop with protruding tree roots so bottoms are a little sensitive. Combined with light rain, it was sufficient for us to take a shorter day and lay up in a hotel with a restaurant which is shut so looks like pizza again.</span></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-60884572734081661702019-09-24T16:54:00.000+02:002019-09-24T18:19:34.655+02:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Sunday 22nd September 2019</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Luttingen - Kembs (France)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">80kms</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Before I recount the activities of today, I feel obliged to comment on the accommodation we stayed in last night. We have always maintained that wherever we have stayed, in whatever country, the greeting has always been the most telling thing. The spoken language doesn't matter but the body language and the tone of the greeting, most certainly does. With a warm and genuine greeting, almost any hotel, hostel, b&b or campsite can be relied upon to provide a pleasant experience. Should you find yourself in Luttingen the Kranz hotel is the place to stay as it is a fine example of what I have just outlined.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Here we go with comments on today after a very fine breakfast. The weather continues to hold although I overdid the extra layers this morning and worked my way into a great lather by coffee stop time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> (In all the excitement I have forgotten to mention our companion of last evening. Another cyclist, a lady, with some years of experience, who hailed from Gap and was keen to extol the virtues of mountain living. We have an open invitation to bike or ski but at a level, methinks, we would be unable to meet.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Onward with today; the highlight, if such it could be called, was the traverse of Basel. Having visited some very pretty villages and the longest covered bridge in Europe (think that is accurate), Basel was on another planet. It also kept running further away - initially 45 kms to eventually over 60! The approach was something of a bum burner bouncing along stony and dusty tracks so when our route wound it's way up, down, through and over, we were unimpressed. Nonetheless, we did emerge the other side only slightly bruised and battered. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Our way now, and over the next few days appears to follow a canal and is thus expected to be flat with lots of bouncing. Extra padding required!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Not as many power assisted bikes around today, only about half of the total, but when my bum hurts and I am chewing dust, I can barely bring myself to greet these usurpers even as I acknowledge that I will no doubt join their ranks at some time in the future.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Here's to the future!</span></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-49047263252402077932019-09-21T17:43:00.001+02:002019-09-21T18:37:19.194+02:00to Lutingen<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Saturday 21st September 2019</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Stein am Rhein - Luttingen </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">86kms</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The weather has not failed us yet and, after a chilly start, temperatures were riding to 21degrees plus. My wrinkly legs are proof of this - tanned to a shorts mark! Not a pretty sight. They are still working so I am grateful.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Our route this day has been flat with some quite big bumps. An accumulation of bumps did take its toll by the end of the day. We have flip flopped between Switzerland and Germany and often the only way to establish which country, is to hop into a local supermarket where you will be obliged to pay in Euros (Germany) of francs (Switzerland). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There have been several highlights today; the first being our third visit to Rheinfal. It is the first time that we have approached it from above and the power of the water cannot fail to inspire awe. Tis a magnificent sight and was being enjoyed by the usual crowds on land and on the water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The second was the traverse of a large and well attended market in a village I am ashamed to say, I cannot name. We were obliged, but happy, to walk through and scan the exhibitions without injuring any small children on the way. We exited without mishap, although we had lost some time but heyho it's all part of the journey.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">With perfect timing we missed a turning only to find ourselves observing a firepersons' wedding. Not sure if it was the bride or the groom who warranted the attention or maybe, it was both. There was an arch of hoses, two fully equipped fire engines with flashing lights and weewahs - hopefully no real fires in the vicinity!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A grand day and to round it off, we have been offered this magnificent suite in a local hotel instead of a bedroom and all for the same price. Might need to be a bit more mindful tomorrow. Lots of forest, lots of trees and not much accommodation.</span></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-49552644592170886282019-09-19T20:23:00.000+02:002019-09-20T18:46:58.216+02:00To Londau then Stein am Rhein<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Goodbye to the mountains</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lindau</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Thursday 19th - Friday 20th September</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Vaduz - Stein am Rhein via Lindau, Bergenz and Konstanz (among others)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">160kms.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Two more glorious days of sunshine , flowers, mountains, fields, villages and rivers. Thursday's ride started with Heidi fields hugged by the mountains and full of country smells to go with the cattle and the horses. Smiles were order of the day as we passed many a young mother walking prams, presumably with small children in them, smiling quietly wondering at their luck to be living in this paradise. Returning to the river and sadly the motorway (managed to avoid actually accessing it) it was notable that the volume of water is increasing, and that the local administration is very proud of their flood prevention works. It's on lots of notices! The water has also turned beige in protest no doubt.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We were heading into tourist country as we pedalled nearer to Lake Konstanz. We had been advised that this was an area favoured by the Germans on holiday and so it proved to be! It is stunning and it is easy to understand why lots of folk would want to be there - would just have preferred not quite so many!! Truly hundreds of visitors on bikes! Whoever thought of the electric bike must be a millionaire many times over. The riders now come in all shapes and sizes and with varying degrees of competence. There is no code of behaviour - you just wheely along oblivious of other track users and do your best to stay upright! Remarkably everyone seemed to avoid tragedy. It is notable that more than 80% of cycles were power assisted. Not quite sure how I feel about it all.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Leaving the heavy traffic behind, we followed the lake side for much of today passing through a number of old villages. Many have tried to maintain, at least some of the old and original buildings but it is also true that much is being built to feed the rich housing market. It is hard to imagine such a large continuous area of opulence anywhere in the UK surrounded by hills and lakes. Fair takes your breath away.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As ever, it is the people who inspire us, not always in a positive way as Al can vouch for after a short altercation with a minibus driver on a cycle track! There is little in the way of greeting other riders but hosts in the guest houses have, without exception, been charming. We will continue with our hellos and happy greetings and so onward with our trip.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ferry to Kontanz</td></tr>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-31084176902644325462019-09-17T21:10:00.000+02:002019-09-18T19:01:32.514+02:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tuesday 17th September - Wednesday 18th September.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Andermatt to Vaduz via Ilanz</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">140 kms</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We are two days into our expedition and during that time we have basked in the glory of the Alps, climbed 700 metres to the Overalppass, descended the hairpins without colliding with the Ferraris, Lamborghini's, Maclarens firing their engines in competition, located our river, negotiated single track mountain roads with hundreds of feet drop to the floor, crossed a truly magnificent gorge and finally arrived in Lichtenstein fighting a nostril wind. Who could ask for more? There was a little more- I fell off! again! Just grazed and my hero mended the stuck front brake.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have been relieved to discover that we are still able to ride our bikes despite three days of sitting in trains, although it has to be said that the last ride into Andermatt was a stunning trip through the mountains. It also appears that this little train actually climbs to the pass as I discovered as I summited (that's sportsman's speak for getting to the top of something). Al kept that very quiet! More incongruous was the lighthouse that had somehow left the coast and plonked down at the top of the pass! Just to confuse the exhausted walker or climbed maybe. However, most folk seemed to arrive by car and what cars they were. I did not joke when I commented on the makes of the ones we narrowly missed. Truly a road for Jeremy Clarksons lot. (except for a little bit in the middle where the road became a track and we still don't know how some of the cars didn't ground).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have encountered many a set of road works today. Must be the seasons for propping up the embankments - good job really. Today has seen us emerge from the high mountains and scenery which has been very mixed - fabulous gorges, beautiful hills, delightful houses, concrete factories and motorways! One constant is the river which is a beautiful turquoise but very low. These were the only two days of significant height gain, apparently which is a blessing on one sense but does reduce the amount of stunning views. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mary on the bridge</td></tr>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-66978203127213485862019-09-16T18:24:00.001+02:002019-09-16T18:24:19.874+02:00<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-64538a5e-7fff-9567-afd3-5f41ca09b464" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Eurovelo 15 - The Rhine Cycle Route.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Friday 13th - Monday 16th September 2019</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Oradour sur Vayres - Andermatt via Limoges, Montlucon, Clermont Ferrand, Lyon, Geneva, Brig and Andermatt. Approximately 900 kilometres by train except the 55kms from Oradour to Limoges (by bike).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have arrived at the start of our cycle ride - at last! Each town represents a train change, some which have gone well and others which have left our dignity in tatters.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The ride from home to Limoges augered well. Al had found a picturesque, quiet route which he assured me, was flat. If you ignore the four of five hills we climbed, he was correct! I jest - it was a thoroughly enjoyable experience in the sunshine and tranquility of the countryside. Limoges, like all the cities mentioned was not tranquil.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As train/bike virgins our inexperience became obvious as we attempted to board our first train. This involved throwing the panniers through the door, dropping the bikes, the frenzy only ending with the straining of muscles and of finally heaving the bikes up the steps into the carriage! We have gained much experience since and now our system of locating the bike carriages and propping bikes before boarding has much improved our image (well, maybe a tad).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have been staggered at the sheer volume of people darting around stations in a flurry of activity. We are now experts in translating arrival and departure times and even locating the correct platforms. Alan averted one possible catastrophe when he realised that Lyon Part Dieu was actually a station and not an indication of a part journey. Without his quick mind, we would have alighted in Lyon at entirely the wrong place!! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have enjoyed sufficient time to wander around Clermont Ferrand and Geneva. The first being a bit down at heel and the second, the most expensive place in the world. We now know why so few Swiss are fat - they can't afford the beer and soft drinks.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">If has been quite a stressful (character forming) experience with a lot of early mornings and restless nights angsting about the morrow. We are looking forward to a good night's kip and true commencement of our journey - 10kilometres of 6% - that will get things going.</span></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-20857147515248582032019-08-15T15:52:00.002+02:002019-08-15T15:53:23.683+02:00la Rochelle<br />
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August 2019<o:p></o:p></div>
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Velodysee revisited:<o:p></o:p></div>
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This revisit was unplanned and the result of an email
received from a very old climbing friend suggesting that we meet after many
years. This reunion was to take place on the Isle de Rey where our friends had
pitched their tents in the sand. Unwilling to make the journey by car, we made
the decision to stay in La Rochelle and cycle to our destination. A wise move
as it transpired as the road traffic on the bridge between the mainland and the
island was all but at a standstill with long queues. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The cycle ride to the island was one of many additional
options to the main Velodysee route and one which I had ignored on the previous
journey so we set off on a beautiful day marred only by the thousands of
visitors meandering along the streets of La Rochelle. The Google advised cycle
route to the bridge was somewhat tortuous in its twists and turns but some
eleven kilometres later we were on this magnificent crossing. Conditions were
my least favourite! Long, gentle uphill into a nostril wind! Gorgeous views
though and lots of sunshine. <o:p></o:p></div>
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We enjoyed a very full catch up with Mike and family and our
return journey was much less arduous with a following wind and a more
straightforward route of Alan’s design! Always the master navigator!<o:p></o:p></div>
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It was later that evening while we were enjoying an Italian
pasta in the least busy restaurant that we could find, that we encountered two
young women wearing cycle shorts. It occurred to us that they might be riding
the Velodysee and, in an unusual burst of confidence, Alan asked the question.
It was as we had thought and I was delighted to encounter young females who
were undertaking an adventure. Young men in a group are not unusual but women
in this situation are much rarer. I found myself feeling very proud of their
endeavour especially when we discovered the long distances they were covering
each day. Subsequently, we spent a thoroughly enjoyable evening sharing
experiences and we remain in awe of their respective rides to work in London!
If you ever read this, we wish you a wonderful holiday and
many more cycling journeys.<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-85520029394350937222019-06-24T16:43:00.000+02:002019-06-24T16:51:47.195+02:00Al's Route Notes on EV1 Portugal<br />
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Route Notes for EV1 Portugal Atlantic Route - <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>June 2019<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Background:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Route cycled from North to South because of prevailing
northerly winds at this time of year.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Independent touring on fully loaded Thorn Raven Touring
bikes with Rohloff gears.<o:p></o:p></div>
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GPX files downloaded from Eurovelo Portugal website in
May 2019 to Garmin Edge Explore.<o:p></o:p></div>
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We are experienced riders <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>of “mature age” with 16,000 kms of cycling on
Eurovelo routes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Positives:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Many short sections on good dedicated cycle paths
maintained to a high standard and suitable for touring cycling. GPX routing on
these was good and, indeed, necessary. Surfaced road sections were, in some
places, quiet with either a <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>good cycle
path or an extra lane for slow traffic. The numerous cobbled sections were in
good condition and a good bone shaker.<o:p></o:p></div>
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<br /></div>
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Negatives:<o:p></o:p></div>
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When cycling Eurovelo routes, I invariably find myself shouting
at the lardy route planners who I imagine designed the route from Google Maps.
This journey in Portugal was no exception with many sections of the route
failing to come close to the essential standards for road surface set by European
Cyclists Federation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many of the other
criteria set by ECF and Eurovelo when applied to the Eurovelo Portugal<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>would rate this route “Badly Rideable” or “Not
Rideable (ECF definitions).<o:p></o:p></div>
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Examples:<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sections of sandy gravel and large stones on slopes in
excess of 10%. (First time it has taken the two of us to push one bike)<o:p></o:p></div>
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Sections on deep sand<o:p></o:p></div>
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Section on GR route with over 100 steps<o:p></o:p></div>
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20km section where the road surface had long ago been
destroyed by fire leaving large loose stones, fine gravel and endless potholes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Section on Motorway.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Section on road clearly signed “Cyclists Prohibited”<o:p></o:p></div>
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Numerous tracks barely rideable with loaded bikes.<o:p></o:p></div>
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10 Km Section through the most difficult part of Lisbon
shown on GPX as a straight line.<o:p></o:p></div>
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5 Eurovelo signs in 600kms.<o:p></o:p></div>
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Portugal is a beautiful country with much to recommend it
and I’m sure there is the potential for some excellent cycling.
Unfortunately<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the advertising for this
route is, in my opinion, fraudulent. After 10 days, we abandoned the gpx route
and made our own way south. We had lost faith in the route planners but worse,
we feared for our safety and frequently resorted to pushing. <o:p></o:p></div>
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I challenge the designers of this route to load up their
bikes with camping kit for a fortnight on the road and complete their route
with a smile on their faces. <o:p></o:p></div>
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Having got rid of that, I can honestly say that we
finished this route with an immense sense of satisfaction. <o:p></o:p><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tM8B569G3kk/XRDjUN0A8HI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/D9iEIMdRBiEUvQ1Z8TKWev-KSFrMzuU5gCLcBGAs/s1600/20190522_115704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tM8B569G3kk/XRDjUN0A8HI/AAAAAAAAA8Y/D9iEIMdRBiEUvQ1Z8TKWev-KSFrMzuU5gCLcBGAs/s320/20190522_115704.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">gone swimming</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Till the next time.</div>
<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-78506125913489742092019-06-23T15:56:00.000+02:002019-06-23T15:56:54.140+02:00<br />
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Final comments on EV1 Atlantic Route Portugal( a dubious coastal cycle route from
Northern Portugal to the South)</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CrTkWR4mrf8/XQ-EYdG65yI/AAAAAAAAA6k/VQdMYYCEZOwR8vaghKDFM016-_aOm83lACLcBGAs/s1600/20190530_181243.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CrTkWR4mrf8/XQ-EYdG65yI/AAAAAAAAA6k/VQdMYYCEZOwR8vaghKDFM016-_aOm83lACLcBGAs/s320/20190530_181243.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
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I must commence by thanking all those people who have read
and responded so positively to the blog. It is really intended as a record of
progress for Alan and myself (memory not always being very reliable) but it is
nonetheless gratifying to know that it also brings a small amount of pleasure
to a few followers; not to mention the encouragement we obtain from your
comments.<o:p></o:p></div>
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The most notable result of this ride for us, was the sense
of achievement. At times, it was very testing both physically and mentally but
we had managed to overcome any problems and meet the challenges head on. It has
also provided us with total confidence in the ability of the bikes to deal with
very difficult terrain (often, the only limitation was our personal ability and
considerations of safety). Alan is dealing with the proclivities of the route
and you will already be aware, from comments in the blog, that much of it was
of an unacceptable standard. However, it is clear from the number of commercial
bike tour enterprises that we encountered, that there exist safer and easier
ways of exploring Portugal by bike. <o:p></o:p></div>
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The country, the coast and the people are a delight. In
particular to the north, we cycled through villages still strip farming (well,
not the villages, but the people!). The coastline is glorious, and where there
existed cycle paths, it was possible to watch the waves and still be vigilant
enough to avoid pedestrians. Other times, though, our eyes were firmly fixed on
the ground and sightseeing was a luxury we could only afford if we stopped –
which we did, if only to catch our breath. By contrast, the south of the
country appears to be more densely populated with an emphasis on tourism. Thus,
roads are busier and drivers less concerned about the hapless cyclist. It has
to be said though, that we received many signs of encouragement from drivers
and even the police in the form of toots (as opposed to blasts) on horns and
thumbs up appearing out of windows. Even other cyclists training for the Tour
de France! acknowledged our efforts as they overtook us or passed going the
other way.<o:p></o:p></div>
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It has been an experience like no other of our Eurovelo
rides and needs to be approached with caution but with the potential to be a
superb endeavour. <o:p></o:p></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JX11EgGvq-s/XQ-EWaqfCWI/AAAAAAAAA6o/P_s7vuudYL4eJCJ3FGZDJ78unkqmgQrNACEwYBhgL/s1600/20190526_121719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JX11EgGvq-s/XQ-EWaqfCWI/AAAAAAAAA6o/P_s7vuudYL4eJCJ3FGZDJ78unkqmgQrNACEwYBhgL/s320/20190526_121719.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-74133027493040902922019-06-10T22:04:00.002+02:002019-06-10T22:05:40.638+02:00<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-c6f95eb7-7fff-ade4-9bbd-47e9454ad8b3" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Sunday 09.06.19</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Alijezur - Lagos</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We left our lovely hotel and bakery armed with lots of goodies for coffee and lunch stops. We have decided to go for Lagos today missing some of the gravelly tracks. We enjoyed a beautiful run through the forest of pines descending into small rocky bays most of which had been commandeered by surfers.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The weather is still with us although the wind is very strong and not always behind. We ended our exploration of the woods and bays and took a more main route to Lagos. Efficient but not that pretty. It offered the advantage of a Yelloh campsite which have everything under the sun except ground of sufficient softness to take pegs! We bent a few but got the tent up. Washroom facilities were better than most five star hotels! We took some shelter from the wind by setting up the tent next to a pretty huge camper (British). Very friendly couple who offered the use of their chairs and very welcome they were too.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Enjoyed a buffet dinner, (not a camp meal) which was excellent and despite the noise we were asleep within minutes of crawling into sleeping bags. (Or in some cases - falling!)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have made the decision that tomorrow will see the end of the ride. The Algarve has little to recommend it from our viewpoint.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Monday. 10.06.19</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lagos - Albufiere</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lagos was sadly like all the towns we have ridden through since turning the corner. Touristy, mucky and busy. During this ride, we have been able to experience a real feel for Portugal which for us has seen the country divided into three. North to Porto then a bit in the middle which included Lisbon if you were a history buff and didn't mind being mowed down by wandering sightseers and then the south, the Algarve which has been a disappointment. Towns built to accommodate visitors who have not really taken care of them. Suffice to say they have not offered us any pleasure in visiting.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The one thing that has been a constant is the driving - for such nice people, they turn into demons in their vehicles. Speed and a lack of courtesy is the norm and can be terrifying on a bike. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Still, I digress a little. Having taken the decision to complete our ride today, we needed to get to the car hire in time to arrange a vehicle of some kind, large enough to take bikes and trailers. We were doing really well until I rode through some glass and my back tyre expired with much hissing. Al to the rescue with all this safety gear and on the side of the road in the hot sun be fixed everything. Wow! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Having organised the car, we made for our bike friendly hotel - not! I did my usual request for a room and despite Alan having consulted booking.com, which stated plenty of available rooms for 122 Euros which was a lot. The smug young lady on reception explained they had one room without a balcony for 144 Euros. Very cross cos I knew she was lying, I informed the great one and he challenged the cost using as proof his phone information. Well, well … Suddenly the price changed and hoorah we also had a balcony. It would suggest that I did not fit the criteria for suitable client!</span></div>
Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-71532564113758365702019-06-08T20:09:00.000+02:002019-06-08T20:09:28.453+02:00<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-f26d3159-7fff-d306-e261-21d22b32a91a" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Saturday 08. 06. 19</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Porto Covo - Alijezur.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Porto Covo was beautiful and we took breakfast in a cafe along with most of the rest of the population and looking forward to a coastal run with all the promise of views of the sea and beaches. We both had some misgivings based on our experience so far and we were not disappointed. Track started well. A bit softy sandy, got worse and finally ended on the road. It emerged that this stunning run along the coast was at best a walking route (surface of soft sand and about a metre wide). Not even a mountain biking track!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">By trekking about, we did find some glorious beaches, and at last a metalled road. Good old Al.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">On a positive note, we did have a following wind for most of the ride and the weather was great.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Really decent hotel tonight - very bike friendly. (Bikeotel.com)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I cannot imagine what cock-ups await us tomorrow! But will sleep well tonight!</span></div>
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Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-38576721119616550972019-06-08T20:04:00.000+02:002019-06-08T20:04:17.920+02:00<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-6106d0bd-7fff-d3ba-4027-eb009a0b11a5" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Friday 07. 06. 19</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Setabul - Porto Covo</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Up and away to the ferry which was made very easy to access by the very friendly and efficient staff. Calm crossing and then up the ramp and the first flat ride for some time. We really did bowl along through sand dunes and line forests. Stopped eventually for a coffee and met with fellow cyclists from New Zealand. They were going only a short distance to Melissa without any kind of map! You will understand the importance of this omission as the blog proceeds.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We had made a decision in view of the lack of hills, to continue to Sines. All going well with wind up our arse and a good wide duel carriageway. And then, just when we thought EV could get no more ludicrous it did! Our road turned in an instant to a motorway! Exit we must and did to nowhere. A sandy track to the beach or a half made road to goodness knows where. (I now have no faith left in our route instructions but absolute faith in Al, who somehow got us to Sines almost impossible unless using a car!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Found a great campsite some 15kms further on and, even better, a fabulous Italian restaurant whose food was outstanding.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Crashed!</span></div>
107km total today .<br />
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-52399202242833885112019-06-06T19:27:00.000+02:002019-06-06T19:27:03.837+02:00<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-4d866344-7fff-0cff-9fc8-7e606e838423" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wednesday. 05.06.19</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Azenhas do Mar - Lisbon</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Today has been a day of total contrasts - absolutely awful/delightful and everything in between. As the awful was at the beginning of the day I shall begin with that and make no apology for telling it as it was! We had spent a short burst on a mainish road and after some discussion decided to go with the EV route. It plunged down to within inches of the beach, crossed a river and thence followed our worst experience to date. Even allowing for our advancing years this was a route to test the most resolute cyclist. It began with a climb (quite used to that) on sandy but solid ground for around 50metres. Then we were on loose gravelly sand, followed by loose rock and inclines of more than 10 - 15%. Downhill was just as difficult to negotiate, throwing the wheels in all directions and with no stability and no passing traffic of any kind, an accident would have been a serious incident so we walked! No escape was possible so perseverance was required. After some 4 kilometres and when we thought things could deteriorate no further, they did. We faced a climb so severe that the only way to achieve the summit was for two of us to push one bike and then return for the other and repeat the exercise. Underfoot purchase was unreliable (sort of two steps forward and one back) and the weight unrelenting. After some 6 kilometres and about two hours later, we reached a metalled road albeit and uphill one, but a doddle after our recent ascents. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Our reward for all this effort was a magnificent downhill into Cascais and a long run along a superb bike track right on the edge of the sea. We positively sailed along in the sunshine greeting oncoming cyclists with a relieved smile. This continued until we reached Lisbon. Now, I acknowledge that we are not really city folk but one thing worse than a city, is one full of sightseers. As we left the riverside, we found ourselves engulfed the multitudinous hordes, all of whom seemed oblivious of everyone and everything outside their own group including two socking great bikes! Nonetheless, we wove our way ever upwards, in search of our hotel! It seemed to be one hop ahead of us for about two kilometres; as we got close so it hopped. An hour after departing the river, hooray and hoorah it stopped moving and we put our bikes in a lift which took us down to the parking - it took the cars too!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I am certain that the city of Lisbon is a grand one and that all those folk were having a good day but just not our bag. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">So, a day of mixed emotions but a certain amount of pride in successfully achieving our destination. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Thursday. 06. 06. 19</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Lisbon - Setubal</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Following the experience of yesterday, we paid more than usual heed to the proceedings for this day. Our first move was to catch the ferry across to the other side of the river and then according to EV we were going to cover 84 kilometres of coastal hills! Now, based on experience, we were reluctant to commit ourselves to such an undertaking. In addition to the uncertainty of the safety of the route, was a pretty rubbish weather forecast. Heavy rain and strong winds were expected around 4 o'clock and no amount of grit and determination was going to allow us to meet our target of Setabul in good time. The decision was made to stick with the main drag and a shorter route which would ensure that we beat the rain to our accommodation (not the tent!)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As it turned out, this was a wise move,as less than a third of the way into the ride, the GPS gave up the ghost. Maybe in sympathy, I know not. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A generally uneventful day and just what the doctor ordered.</span></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-16522170150051432472019-06-04T23:19:00.002+02:002019-06-04T23:19:33.991+02:00<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-ba0b7c52-7fff-1b43-e973-09c154624acf" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Sunday 02.06.19</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Peniche</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We took this day off from cycling as we had found a very nice and reasonably priced hotel. Took the opportunity to visit the launderette and get rid of many unpleasant smells.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Found an Intermarche and managed to acquire commodities that the little micro markets don't sell.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We enjoyed two fabulous meals in Pedro's restaurant. Am weaning Alan onto fish.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We went for a stroll around the harbour trying and failing to remember Peniche from the rally in 2002. Nothing looked the same. Still, I suppose 17 years is quite a long interval between visits. Only the old citadel walls were familiar.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A good day's relaxation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Monday 03. 06. 19.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Peniche - Santa Cruz.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The day began with a conversation over breakfast with an American couple, the female half of which was visiting Portugal with some students to teach water colour painting using Porto as the inspiration. We avoided all mention of the Trump! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Feeling clean and fresh we powered off (bit optimistic) and within half a kilometre EV had led us to a dead end! It was our great good fortune to come across a local who, with the aid of much gesticulation, showed us how to re-route. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The weather was cooler but still bright, showing off the local flora in all its vibrant colours. In one such garden, a lady was doing her washing in a concrete sink which seem very popular in this area, particularly in the campsites. Anyway, she was pummeling away and I bid her good day and her face lit up with a beautiful smile which I returned probably less beautifully. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">I had made a comment in my little book before we set off on our venture, that this ride was a bit more uppy and downy. Suffice to say I was correct and that will be the end of the matter. At the bottom of one of these hills, was a beautiful small village, Santa Nova was its name and here we lunched with views of crashing waves, a small river, fascinating and somewhat precarious rock formations, and virtually no people.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Thanks to the clever and thoughtful amendments to our route, (all Al's) we arrived at our campsite with time to spare. I use the term campsite loosely, as it was really just row on row of the wierdist caravan and tent combinations with little streets in-between. Sort of hillbilly township. Tents were clearly something of a novelty as of the only two places available for pitching, one was concrete and the other, sand. We opted for the sand and prayed that there would only be light winds. It rained a bit but no harm done. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Shortly after our arrival a guy arrived on a motor bike. He was a German biker named Sven and we shared a very enjoyable meal and an evening of conversation in English, I might add, as he spoke the language very well. We would certainly have struggled in German. Still feeling quite fresh as we turned in.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tuesday 04. 06. 19</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Even with the interruption of the rain which, needless to say, stopped as soon as I had retrieved shoes and drying knickers from outside, we enjoyed a good night's kip.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We breakfasted in town after bidding farewell to Sven. By chance we chose a cafe whose owner spoke quite perfect English which she was anxious to practice. This meant that my complicated order for breakfast and sandwiches for lunch was met with enthusiasm. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">The weather was overcast and not that warm but what was to come was quite a shock. It began with a drizzle, then a bit heavier drizzle (Waterproofs on) the full storm downpour, and visibility reduced to not very much. And unusually we were on a busy main road which was soon a running river and a very scary place to be. We left the main road at the earliest sensible junction and the rain finally eased leaving us pretty soaked. Astoundingly in less than an hour, the rain ceased for good and visibility improved no end, a further hour later, the sun was shining and we were steaming.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">At this point in our quite uppy/downy ride, the route directed us round and under the main road onto a sandy track leading to yet another beach. For us, another dead end - no way through- big fence - lots of don't you dare signs. So, back up the fifth or so very steep hill of the day, so steep, in fact, that a campervan was hanging precariously on the edge of a ditch on the side of the road. There was little we could do to help although we did make the gesture. Workmen, from the road above we busy trying did things as we carried on with our pushing.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have met in passing three other laden bikers today only one of which was trying to follow the Eurovelo route and having about as much success as we were and they were doing it the correct way - south to north.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have now finished our seven, really quite big climbs, and are back at sea level ready for a beer and a meal. </span></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-36315948528633404842019-06-02T16:52:00.000+02:002019-06-02T17:02:27.428+02:00<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-7f1d3ddd-7fff-8f5f-024f-543c664e594c" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Friday 31.05.19</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Sao Pedro de Moel - Praia da Vieira</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">While the rest of the cyclists who had shared our hotel were still eating breakfast, Al managed to extricate our bikes from among the many that were parked in the bike shed. Our overnight room had provided a balcony view of the sea and an opportunity to hang very niffy clothes outside. So today, we smell a little less. Not, however, for very long. Following a jolly ride along the front for not nearly long enough, we were headed for the hills and I do mean hill. As ever, the effort was rewarded with fabulous 360degree views and a coffee spot in the SHADE providing us with table and bench. Such a treat! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It has been another really hot day with temperatures around the thirties. This may have, in part, accounted for my lapse of concentration while cutting open a bread roll with my penknife. The outcome was a small stabbing incident which resulted in quite a lot of blood. The injury was not serious and quickly dealt with although Al insisted on trying to clean up some of the mess on the ground. [And the mess on her helmet where the raised arm technique caused a red shower - Ed. ] It had been going so well as the chosen lunch spot was high above the front of a town whose name I cannot remember. Suffice to say, it was all very pretty with fishing boats and happy children playing on the sand.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have received much encouragement today from various sources - fellow cyclists (many of whom were getting a lift), other road users, workmen and just folk in their gardens. It really does help. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We had reduced distance travelled today by going the extra mile yesterday and very glad we were too as temperatures continued to rise and the ups getting no easier. The campsite, when we eventually found it, left much to be desired and despite advertising a bar and restaurant, neither was open. BUT, it was Friday night and Alan's night for cooking! His creation of pasta with sardines and olives was excellent. Glad to rest weary bones tonight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Saturday. 01.06.2019 </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Foz do Arelho - Peniche </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We breakfasted in style outside the amenities there being no other built up area to cook and as the ground was not only like concrete, as we had found out last night when trying to ram home pegs, it was also tinder dry. In this unlikely situation, we fell into conversation with a gentleman who spoke perfect English and was keen to discover what in the world we were doing. We explained. ('Why are you doing this?' is becoming an oft posed question and one to which we need to find a satisfactory answer. Any ideas much appreciated!) We did ascertain from our chat, that the weather was unseasonal. It was, apparently, supposed to be spring and not full summer. One could be forgiven for thinking otherwise. It was early morning and already very hot so even packing the tent was a very sweaty affair.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As I have the good fortune not to be deaf, my nights are punctuated with noise, in particular dogs barking. Portugal does seem to have more than its fair share of dogs, particularly yappy ones which only dare to bark at night. Add to that the local parrot in a cage, and it was quite a cacophony of sound.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We, or at least I, had hoped for some more in the way of interesting wildlife around the shores of Lagoa de Obidos which, as it's name suggests is a sea water lagoon of some size. Going around its shores was too much for Eurovelo, who thought it much more interesting/fun to conjure up a pile of hills which did had its compensations. We passed through the small and original old Portuguese villages we have seen little of thus far, and it was a change to see small farming groups, small whitewashed houses and not a villa in sight. They, the villas that is, were not far away and the most ostentatious of them was next to a golf complex complete with a Marriott's Hotel! No, we did not attempt admittance. In fact poverty returned and we were on a dirt track again, which culminated in a sand dune. With our waning strength, we pushed and pulled the bikes through and had a momentary collapse and sense of humour failure. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We were now seriously overhot so, it was with some relief that we entered Peniche. This night we were going to find an hotel and our first port of call was the tourist information office which was devoid of any helpful information. It had the good fortune, though, to be situated opposite a small hotel which was happy to store our bikes in the empty shop next door and offer us a room for 35 euros including breakfast. Too good an opportunity to miss and we took the offer for two nights in order to have a bit of a rest and properly wash our stinking gear.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">distant forest fires</td></tr>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-55183633959397330712019-05-30T20:16:00.000+02:002019-05-30T20:16:40.401+02:00<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-0fc4b46d-7fff-734a-75b8-40a1ab6bced8" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Thursday 30.05.2019</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Figueira da Foz - Sao Pedro de Moel</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">There is a big bridge which spans the river at Fig da Foz and we did need to cross said river but we were unclear as to whether this magnificent span was a motorway! (Memories of Sicily came to mind). Erring on the side of caution, we thought it better to take the long route to a second crossing. As that decision was made, Alan spotted a group of cyclist pedalling over the bridge. We found the access but the cycle track was, as you would expect, on the other side of the barrier! Having noted the speed and the size of the vehicles using the road a bit of faffing was required to locate the start of the barrier and make sure we were on the right side of it. It was quite an unnerving experience even protected by the barrier, how the group preceding us stood up to the traffic, I don't know. They were from Rome so maybe it was chicken feed for them. Safe on the far bank, and having deviated from the proscribed route, it took Master Navigator a few moments of concentration to come up with an alternative way on, which he did, needless to say. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Everything which is described as passing through lush forest is now a misnomer as the trees have been destroyed by fire and stand like black telegraph poles providing no shade whatsoever on a very long road. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Perhaps the most significant thing about today, had been the unexpectedly high temperature so lots of sweating and lots of drinking. Neither of us could face erecting a tent in the heat so very sensibly opted for a hotel with showers and air conditioning. We know how to live! We are also sharing the accommodation with a couple of guided groups who have been grasshoppering with us for much of the day. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As we gained a few kms with the bridge crossing, we are a little into tomorrow's route which might be to the good as I have made a note that we may have some serious climbing to do or maybe not. Looking forward to it all anyway. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the view from the bridge Figueira da Foz</td></tr>
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Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-10038840223878420652019-05-29T20:18:00.000+02:002019-05-29T20:19:59.719+02:00On the way to 'Figgy Foz'<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-7ff3e5ca-7fff-0303-364a-6b31036f3596" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Road through Portugal - Tuesday 28thMay</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Porto - Sao Jacinta</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Refreshed from our night in a real bed, and a long conversation with a gentleman from Thailand, we made an enthusiastic start. The track or boardwalk really was stunning following the beach - ah, but then, with all the high winds the boards were knee deep in sand! Turn round, found a road, then steps! A very squidgy lane allowed us to avoid the steps and then began a massive detour around the salt marshes. A great place for bird watching or providing a feast for the midgies. Lunch was a very rushed affair accompanied by much flesh slapping! Eventually, we had nearly completed the circumnavigation except for the last couple of kilometres to a necessary bridge crossing, against the wind. We do commiserate with the cyclists determinedly fighting with it all day! The wind I mean.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A one and a half wait for the ferry ensued where we met up with a very gutsy American lady, so we passed the time very amiably chatting about bike routes in various parts of the world. Exit from the ferry was less than easy with the route dictating that we take a dual carriageway which, needless to say, prohibited bikes and those people riding them! Undaunted, we found an alternative and 12 kilometres later our tent was pitched, we were clean and heading for somewhere to eat. And did we find the right place. Looked like nothing, but the fish platter that arrived would have challenged the best restaurant for quality and taste. Superb! Made all the more enjoyable as we were sharing the space with a group of guys on a jolly. And very jolly they were too. A grand end to the day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Sao Jacinta - Figueira da Foz </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wednesday 29th May</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">This really was not our day! The first hour or so was fine. We breakfasted in the camp site cafe, waved to our host of the previous evening as we rode passed and found out path pdq. An hour or so later we were much less sanguine. We discovered that when the Portuguese say a road is damaged, it is actually, totally destroyed. In all our thousands of kilometres of riding some pretty dubious paths, this was 22 kms of the worst, by a country mile. Sadly, we were committed before we realised that these massive potholes and loose stones were to continue unabated. Unable to lift eyes from the road and threatening to take a fall at any time, it was exhausting and very slow. Clearly, there were alternatives cos we met a group at the end of this arduous adventure who were on a guided ride and their guide had made it clear that the route we had followed was impassable! The forestry we were in was completely destroyed by fire and so had the surface of the road. According to the GPX route we were exactly on course.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Thinking that was the worst over (well it was,but the next bit was a very close second) we headed off for the last twelve kms to our destination. Now we were confronted with a 14% hill, followed by a road blocked by huge boulders. There was just enough room to squeeze through onto the unmade road on the other side. Impossible to ride with laden bikes, we forged onward and upward (a couple of kms) 'til we came to the second pile of boulders, much like the first. Finally, on a metalled road, we hurtled downhill into Figueira. Forget camping! Found a very reasonably priced hotel and rested our quite weary bodies. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">NB. This is NOT a completed Eurovelo route or even close and we suspect, has been lifted from a map and certainly not ridden. It is some years from completion so BEWARE!</span></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-37103105051549682832019-05-27T23:24:00.000+02:002019-05-27T23:28:08.808+02:00<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-9327ae39-7fff-d235-0279-cf64e137d011" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;"> 26th - Monday 27th</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Caminha - Espino around 140kms</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">So we are finally on our way! The van is now parked out of the way and under the trees and we have had much support from the campsite staff. We have been furnished with phone numbers in case of problems and many comments of support and good luck. So here's to the Portugal adventure. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It all began with a fabulous run along the coast with a whizzy wind of some 20kms.(the wind strength and the distance). We meandered around a very wiggly route and, without Al's magic machine and all those hours of transferring files etc, we would have had no chance of finding our route. And I thought all that time in the office was just about skiving off the washing up! Of signs along the route, there were none! And nobody mentioned that lots of the lesser roads (most of them) are cobbled! Ugh! Sudacreme to the rescue. Very relieved that we are bouncing around on bikes which will cope with the vagaries of continual bumping.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have discovered that we are encountering lots of folk with rucksacks and shells! This time we are going in the opposite directions to all the pelicans but who still insist on wishing us a 'bon camino!' However, being on the route has proved to be very advantageous as our campsite catered primarily at this time of year for those making the pilgrimage. So we enjoyed a great evening meal and excellent facilities. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A sunny Sunday with shed loads of people making the most of the seaside and ensuring that the proms were overrun with dogs, small children, adolescents still admiring their phones and the occasional decent chap who said Hi or the Portuguese equivalent.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Good to get the first day completed with no unforseen problems!?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Monday 27th - Made it to Espino via very busy Porto.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Not a bad night under canvas if one ignores the gale force winds, pounding surf and ants wandering indicriminately over naked bodies. No harm, they just tickle and disturb slumber. Mind you, the evening meal accompanied by a bottle of delicious wine may have made a small contribution to restlessness. Always up for a challenge, Al had a meat course which contained every part of a pig except, it would seem, the muscle and all with beans! Very nice apparently! I stuck with the fish. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Nevertheless, we were up and running by nine this morning and enjoyed a good 20kms along the coast still with our whizzy wind - thank goodness. A chance encounter with the police earned us a thumbs up from the driver- another first and much appreciated. Still, all good things come to an end and in our case it was the cobbles…………….and yet more cobbles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Master navigator has had to check constantly that we are still on course. That he was successful was proved by our reaching Porto and it's thousands of people. Pushing through the throng was frustrating and a time consuming stop/go involving much walking. And an occasional push up a ramp from a charming electrician working on a connection! And an encounter with a couple from Caernarfon.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Up the river we went (not actually in the water) til we eventually found a bridge, crossed it and then faced a nostril wind to regain the coast. All good for the soul. Mm……….</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We have also, since leaving Porto in our wake, seen our first route sign! Not many followed but we live in hope. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial"; font-size: 11pt; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Indoors tonight in a hostel/appartment. </span></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8291067900126547127.post-62793712867220371432019-05-25T19:31:00.000+02:002019-05-25T19:31:15.914+02:00<div dir="ltr" id="docs-internal-guid-67de7ab5-7fff-75f8-f81e-325ab1ed72fd" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Road to Portugal 20 - 22May</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Monday saw a complete change in the weather to the extent where we enjoyed a walk into the village and partook of a very tasty lunch on the terrace of a harbourside restaurant. A day complete with a finale of the sun setting over the sea.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tuesday was a shortish drive to La Paz last visited some twenty five years ago. In twenty five years not a lot has changed except for the vast road which now runs along the coast of Northern Spain with not a donkey in sight. Venture a few metres from said road and the campsite access retains its charming narrow, winding potholey track to the base of the 1:15 hill and reception. No longer requiring a tractor to haul us to the top, the ascent was somewhat nerve wracking but the magnificent view is unchanged. The sea a deep blue with the mountains behind. A delight to find it unchanged.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Having been instructed to find a pitch, any pitch, except the one we chose! See, I did say nothing had changed! Had better luck the second time - shelter from a still slightly chilly wind and stunning views of the sea. If we thought choosing a pitch was difficult, it was nothing compared with trying to obtain a decent shower. Lots of taps and switches but no instructions! Obviously, one turned the first tap (cold water!) then one pressed the light switch on the wall which allowed the hot water to flow. Piece of cake……….not.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Nothing compares with sitting on the beach watching the tide rise and then watching the sunset over the headland - bloody marvelous. Lots of lovely memories.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Wednesday 22nd May</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">A day of relaxation in the sun and taking lunch on the terrace. What a life!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Road to</span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"> Portugal23 - 25 May</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">You might be forgiven for thinking that we are delaying our real departure and you would be correct but the journey has been worth the delay. Thursday was a full day on the road but such a stunning route. Apart from the views of coast and mountains, the feats of engineering required to incorporate numerous tunnels and viaducts is quite mind boggling. So, apart from Tom Tom making one of its cock-ups trying to locate the campsite and expecting us to negotiate farm tracks, we find ourselves at the start of our ride but we haven't started quite yet. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">It was with considerable relief that on our arrival, our receptionist spoke extremely good English and we were able to explain our intentions and requirements in minutes and it seemed nothing was too much trouble. It was an unexpectedly uncomplicated arrival into a very friendly campsite. We are not entirely sure of the exact spot that we shall be leaving the van but as long as we return before September! when the site closes for the winter there should be no problem.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">As the clocks are an hour behind Spain and France, we were in bed by 21.30 very relieved to feel that all would be well with the world.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Friday 24th May</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">We met with the 'chief' today who has confirmed that we are able to leave the van, that we have his 'phone number in case of problems and that we agree to make a payment - all of which is very satisfactory.We have, therefore, finally unloaded the bikes and pedalled up the road to ensure that we, and the bikes still function. All good.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Discovering that the campsite restaurant would be opening for the first time this year, we felt obliged to attend so at 19.00 we made our way over only to find a very agitated 'chief' and a more sanguine chef. Eating, it seemed might be a problem - no gas! Technician is on his way though. We could still drink and as we cleared half the bottle of wine the technician turned up, switches a switch and hey presto the gas came through. By this time, we had been joined by Jeff and then by the 'chief'. A superb meal of sword fish arrived - well worth the wait. A thoroughly pleasant evening enjoying interesting company, excellent food and an excellent wine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 11pt; font-variant-east-asian: normal; font-variant-numeric: normal; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap;">Tomorrow, we get down to the basics - trying to find the beginning of the route, packing and loading the bikes,ready, at last, for the off.</span></div>
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<br />Mary and Alanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10732005712796267938noreply@blogger.com0