Tuesday 28.08.2018

We are on the move again. A second short trip leaving Oban tomorrow, by boat, for Castle Bay on the Outer Hebrides to cycle the aptly named Hebridean Way! An odd choice you may think - wet, windy and probably not all that warm - but a whole set of new experiences and views (if we can see the latter). If all goes to plan, we shall leave the Isle of Lewis for Ullapool, thence to Inverness and to complete the wobbly circle, ride the Caledonian Way to Fort William and then home to Oban …..

Sadly,  during our last trip this year, the tour de Manche, one of our staunch followers, Sue Trescott, died from a sudden and unexpected illness. She was our friend and her input and encouragement will be missed.

Actually getting to Oban to begin our adventure, was of itself, quite an adventure. A day to Caen and the overnight ferry and then what should have been a five hour journey to a site near Keswick! It will probably come as no surprise that we encountered continual traffic jams often with no apparent cause, so eight hours later we landed in Threthkeld. The frustration of endless vehicles was somewhat mitigated by a very splendid meal in the Horse and Farrier. The drive, the following day of three and a half hours, extended to sixish. We gave up counting and the will to live after the third encounter with endless roadworks. Sadly, no super meal at the end of this day, just motor home fare - pasta and something! Aren’t roads in Scotland north of Glasgow really narrow! Quite tense! Nine hours sleep restored normal service.

When we arrived, two days ago Oban was bathed in sunshine and full of T shirted visitors, not so today. Normal weather has returned and the T shirts are hidden underneath waterproofs. Bags are packed and ready to be loaded onto bikes for our voyage in the morning.

Wednesday 29.08.2018

Oban - Castle Bay

Super start - van safely stowed, bikes packed and off we go. 500 metres along the road we realise, simultaneously, that we have left the 12 v on in the van and the water pump. So back we go! Second start still super and this time we make it to the quayside in Oban. Propping up the railings, as one does when waiting for a ferry, we fell into conversation with another cyclist about to journey to the islands. An interesting chap who had been an engineer and swapped it for courier delivering by bike in Glasgow. He was riding around 60k each day and had well developed calf muscles to prove it. He was carrying about a tenth of our gear which consisted of not much - waterproofs, bivvi bag, sleeping bag and a pullover. Still, he had youth on his side and in view of his obvious prowess and light load, I think we shall not see him again.

The crossing was relatively tame except for the hour or so that we chose to find something to eat. Rolled around a bit but the eating was fortunately no problem. Calmed down as we neared Castle Bay and we disembarked up the inevitable hill.  It had been a crossing with stunning views and for the most part bathed in sunshine.

Our hostel was very near and adequate for our needs if a bit on the basic side. Settled into our room and hotfooted along to the local bar. (a real, old fashioned bar but not with old fashioned prices).

We have an early start in the morning so off for an early night.

Thursday. 30. 08.2018

Castle Bay - Eochar (South Uist)

Our very adequate hostel woke at around 05.30 so I dozed for another hour! Up early then and consequently away early after an appetising bowl of muesli and a cup of tea!

Yet another fabulous day. Sun shining, little wind and pretty, fluffy clouds spoilt only a little by them pesky midgies who dance and bite around your face. They do disappear as soon as you get on the bike and create a bit of wind. Our ferry was around 17 kms away and left, we thought, at 11.15. so we had plenty of time to admire the scenery and the sea in particular. We were so far ahead of ourselves, that we arrived at the ferry terminal (I use the term loosely: just a ramp) at 08.45 to discover the next ferry was leaving at 09.30! Not according to our timetable but who am I to argue with lots of chaps in high viz jackets and a large sea going vessel.

By 10.20, we had arrived in Eriskay and I was ready for a bacon buttie (muesli only goes so far). An hour or so later our eating fairy turned up a cafe serving lots of butties. So Al had bacon and I had black pudding. Thus revitalised and with the sun still warm, I finally divested one layer of clothing - still not T shirts.

We have seen this island in all its glory today and it is hard to over emphasize the beauty of the lakes and the mountains. If we only get this one day, it will have been worth the visit. We have been able to watch the wildlife and the seashore with the only sad views being the many deserted crofts which have been abandoned. They are crumbling into ruin with vacant doorways and windows and two chimneys like fingers pointing skywards. To compensate there is restoration and new building if a little sparse. It has been a thoroughly enjoyable ride and we live in hope of the continuation of this weather.

After a night/morning of sharing clean but scant facilities, Al has found a B and B (well a pod actually with all facilities just for us)  and an evening meal thrown in. Cost to follow! As I write, I am looking out of the door onto a small loch with hills in the background and the sun still shines - magic!

(P.S. - The ferry timetable did state a crossing at 0930. We had simply overlooked it as being impossibly early! My apologies to the Caledonian MacBrayne ferries!)

Friday  31.08.2018

South Uist - South Harris

I described yesterday as glorious. Today has been challenging with bits of glorious. The glorious bits have been being privileged to delight in the exquisite colours of the beaches. I just hope the photos when they are blogged will present an accurate picture.

However, the dominant feature of the day, has been the wind; and I mean wind! It was blowing some when we woke but as it was likely to be a whizzy wind we were relatively unconcerned and, indeed, for a few hours we bowled along nicely. Our buttie fairy presented us with an excellent buttie stop which topped up nicely our breakfast of the inevitable muesli. (Oh, I have forgotten to mention our superb three course evening meal served up by our host of the pod. Salmon pate, beef bourgingnon, chocolate torte and a bottle of wine for good measure.) (Angler’s Retreat _ highly recommended)

Where was I? Oh yes - the wind! We had to change direction and the wind did not! A cross wind of some 30 - 40 miles an hour was very hard work. One gust unseated me and unceremoniously dumped me, unhurt, into the ditch which was thankfully dry. Blissfully unaware of my injured pride, Al checked my status and sensibly advised me to stick to the middle of the road and allow for wobble room. Thus , we proceeded, very slowly in my case, to the top of just one of several hills. (Not even hills really). Unfortunately, in these conditions we had to direct most of our attention to staying upright so sightseeing took a second place.

Our intention out the outset of the day, had been to get to, and take, the ferry to Harris. And we did! As with ferry times yesterday, there was an element of uncertainty as to when the next boat was due - the sign said 17. 35 and the timetable said 16.00. While we were deliberating which was the most likely, a very large group of very large chaps in full lycra made a noisy arrival and the discussion turned to their ride (much longer than ours) but what was so gratifying was their difficulty with the cross winds. We felt so much better as these young things were carrying no gear and were on super bikes! Old Bones doing okay so far!

It seems that our lads had commandeered all the accommodation in the bunkhouse, so we opted for a B and B with all modern cons and a lovely hostess who has just plied us with coffee and cakes.

Lots of hills tomorrow so maybe not so many kilometres.