Saturday 08.09.2018

Neptune's Staircase - Oban

I shall not dwell on the disappointing start to this our last day except to mention an altercation with the manageress of this 'posh’ hotel. I rarely complain but a faulty radiator in our bathroom had set up a banging which in my exhausted sleep, I had not heard for some time. When I became aware of the noise, I got up, traced the source and turned off the offending towel rail. At the same time the phone rang to let me know that other guests were being disturbed. All resolved. In view of the prestige of the Moorings Hotel, I had expected some small compensation for a very disturbed night. Not so. When I gently suggested this might be an appropriate gesture, the manageress went for me like a Rottweiler and suggested that I should have woken earlier and solved her problem. I had not expected much but I had not expected such aggression. I apologized to the young receptionist for starting her day badly and left to load my bike. Such a shame!

Still, all that needed to be put aside and get on with the job of riding. This was a truly lovely ride. Nearly all of it was off road and very varied and always accompanied by the beauty of the Highlands. We had to make it to the Camusnagual ferry for 10o’clock in Fort William. What a funny little boat - the bikes were strapped to the roof and the panniers had to be loaded separately! Despite its small size, it was full of walkers and cyclists (full was only about a dozen bodies). Weather still holding and, after reloading the bikes in the sunshine, we set off along the lockside - really lovely. The second ferry from Corran was altogether different - much bigger with cars but free for bikes! This well designed route continued to please and at 80 kms we were feeling cautiously elated - nearly there. THEN the final ten kms rose in a series of ups and downs to over 300 feet which doesn’t sound much but the day’s total was over 3000ft. To say we were tired would be to underestimate substantially our actual fatigue. BUT we had made it back to our campsite and our van. Group hugs, fizzy and pasta led to instant deep sleep.

Friday 07.09.2018

Foyers - Neptune’s Staircase

I was feeling somewhat trepidious about the climb this morning although Al had assured me that it was only 1000 feet and not metres! What was really unnecessary was the gravelly downhill followed by a steep uphill just to reach the road. It was quite a demanding climb with lots of false summits with a number of pushy bits (if we feel like crying on a steep bit that is the signal for a push). This was part of the Great Glen way and downhill into Fort Augustus was quick! Last time we were here was when we took Ynys Hwyl through the canal to Inverness and it had been heaving with folk that time as well.

The climb had taken quite a time and as accommodation was becoming increasingly difficult to find. All that was available was a further 58 kms but beggars can't be choosers. Off to go along the canal path with views of the mountains that had been obscured on our last visit. This flatness could not last and it didn’t. Off went the path up through the forestry on a track sure to loosen all your fillings. After 60 kms of pedalling we returned to the canal path and, would you believe it, a nostril wind arrived just to ensure we didn’t become too comfortable.

We did arrive before dark and the bikes were allotted their own bar! We had a super room overlooking the lock. (More expense but, by pushing on, we had reduced our ride by one day and thus another bed)

We hope to be back in Oban by tomorrow. Legs and lungs are looking forward to a rest.

Thursday  06.09.2018

Nearly Inverness - Foyers

After settling extortionate bill, we set off for the town of Inverness. You may remember how much we love big towns! Inverness was no exception to our preconception - everyone in a rush to get to their destination and no apparent concern for anyone else on the roads. (I’m sure they care about bit…..) It was our good fortune that Mr. Navigator was on the ball and unerringly led us on to the appropriate road out of he city. I’m sure Inverness is a lovely city and loved by all its citizens but we were not sorry to leave it in our same.

For some good few kms, we trekked our way along 'cycle paths’ which was heavenly as some of these we entirely bereft of traffic and others had clearly defined cycle lanes and it is remarkable how tension decreases with lack of vehicles. Sadly though, as all good things must, it came to an end and we were back on rather shabby single track with accompanied by the inevitable stop/start. The loch shone in on our right and we caught glimpses of it through the trees, then just at the perfect moment, a picnic site hove into view and the sun came out. What more could a body want? It transpires that the midgies wanted our bodies. Not to be beaten by the little blighters, we encased our heads in black netting. That had them beat! And, no doubt frightened a few holiday makers.

Blue sky lasted until we had stowed our waterproofs - then the heavens’ opened again.

I had booked a room in an inn and explained to the person on the phone that we would be arriving on push bikes: he could have forewarned me about the 1 in 10 drive of mud and gravel. Lovely when we had huffed our way to the door and the views over loch Ness were stunning in the evening light - a mix of sunshine and very black storm clouds which, in due course, released an abundance of hail stones.

Over the last bit hill tomorrow and despite Al’s assurance that 'it won’t be too bad’ it still looks like a Pen y Fan to me! Heyho.

Monday 03.09.2018

Galson - Button of Lewis -Stornaway

This is another delightful B and B with magnificent views of the sea and coastline which was entirely obliterated yesterday on our arrival. (Absolutely soaked). After such a difficult day, we passed a jovial evening in the company of our fellow guests of whom there were four at the meal table. The fifth guest, Keith, another cyclist had eaten earlier. He made up for his absence of the evening, with his very entertaining banter at breakfast.

Much of our gear was either soggy or downright wet but in total contrast to yesterday, the weather was set very fair so we wore our soggies and wrapped wets in plastic bags.

The Butt of Lewis was devoid of any sustaining cafe but magnificent ,massive rocks, a seething blue sea and a couple of seals (see photos, but not of the seals, they were too elusive).Then it was heads down for Stornoway. We stopped for a brief chat with Keith who had left after us so he was heading north as we were now heading south. We do hope to see him again. The ride was reminiscent of Trefil moors only much more extensive, surrounded as we were by peat bog and following a single road heading eastward into the distance. Quite a lot of traffic and a single cafe at the fuel station where we supped coffee and were entertained by the chef who was really a surfer.

Stornoway was something of a shock - traffic jams, school buses, traffic lights and a multitude of folk. The ferry port was easy to find - where land meets sea. So far, so good. Now for accommodation! Al did his best but everywhere was full! Just as we had resigned ourselves to a night in the tent if we could find the campsite, we acquired the last room in the most expensive hotel in town. Good job really as Al’s cough didn’t need a damp night. An added advantage was that food was served in the bar and quite by chance, Keith turned up so we shared the evening. He was braving the campsite - good man. So a fine end to the day.

Tuesday 04.09.2018

This was to be a day of rest as we had the ferry to catch in the afternoon which would not get us to Ullapool until early evening. We thought a lie in and a leisurely morning suited the mood but our hotel room was really not conducive to lolling for any hour, never mind a morning. I consider that we are not over demanding regarding accommodation working on the premise that you get what you pay for. This was a false premise in the case of the Royal: the staff were delightful and the food was good but the room was shi………...Due to an absence of heating, the bathroom and the bedroom windows were running with condensation. Everything we had hung was very damp. Had we been residents of a hostel, the facilities would have been adequate but in the poshest hotel in Ullapool, I don’t think so.

Thus we were quite early for the ferry which allowed us time to swap stories with other bikers waiting for the same ferry. At least two couples had been bussed from Tarbert as the ferries for Uig were not running and so when they reached Ullapool, they had to undertake a second bus ride to Skye. The ferry company had provided the transport but the inconvenience was something else! As a result of the cancellations from Tarbert, our ferry to Ullapool was choc a bloc. Bikes were lifted over already packed cars and were finally squidged in. The poor lady in the car parked by the bikes was completely unable to open the drivers door to make her exit.

Imagine our delight when after a five minute pedal we arrived at our fantastic B and B. It could not have been more different from the previous night. It was called bijou and unlike many others claiming the description, it had everything and more - it even had a cafetier in the bedroom with proper coffee. It had been carefully and tastefully renovated and Terry and Shirley were warm and cheerful.

We hadn’t expected Ullapool to be a hive of activity but we could not have been more wrong. What was worse was that all these people expected to be fed by too few eating establishments. Thus, the waiting time for our table was an hour and a half! Tummy touching back time! He warned, if you visit Ullapool, book a table!

Wednesday 05.09.2018

Had a fabulous breakfast and a long chat with Terry about his motives for moving from the south of England to the north of Scotland. He was clearly delighted with his choice. We were unrushed this fine morning as we intended to allow the traffic from the incoming ferry, time to be on their way. The road is single file in each direction and so two side loaded bikes have the propensity to cause a bit of a following queue of impatient drivers. The hill onto the moors was long but quiet and the plateau wild and barren: devoid even of sheep. It was relatively traffic free until we got nearer to Inverness. Not a lot of fun for a few kilometres while we searched for our turning into something less busy. Finally, it appeared and with some relief, we left the big stuff.

It had been quite a tiring day but the fatigue had crept up on us and I managed an undignified fall, having misjudged the angle of a pile of gravel at the side of the road. A bit hurty! In our minds we were looking for the Ord pub - in fact what we found was Ord House Hotel. A real gentleman’s residence with a history going back three hundred years. The host who welcomed us may have been part of that history! This was shabby chic which had over the years, forgotten the chic. Not quite what we had planned but neither of us was going to pedal back along the mile long track to search for the pub!

Sunday 02. 09. 2018

Balallan - South Galson

I know we are essentially on a bike ride but it has to be said that we have experienced some interesting situations in our overnight accommodation. Two nights ago we found ourselves sharing our best on the planet B and B with another couple called Wilkinson (from Australia) so no relation and last night our host was from Newcastle and is in the process of trying to buy a property in the Limousin. Much discussion took place and although he insisted he didn’t want to hold us up, he just came up with more and more questions some of which we could answer and some we couldn’t. However, as it was blowing a gale outside, the delaying tactics were not unwelcome.

Isle of Lewis on a Sunday

How to describe today without sounding a tad negative? On the plus side, the very strong wind was, for the most part, at our backs or at least on the port beam. As for the day’s experience in general I would have to say it was not comfortable. The Scots would call it a dreak day, I cannot in fairness to any younger readers use the words that I would have used. Rain soaked us to the skin and obscured any glorious bits. As it is Sunday, nothing is open except the churches and they don’t score highly on the coffee for sale stakes. We re-acquainted ourselves with the “ bus shelter “! We have made good use of these in a number of countries and the Scots score quite highly………..kept the wind and rain at bay and offered a basic seat. Still, a cobbled together lunch is better than no lunch.

It seems that I was somewhat presumptuous in my description of the flatter topography of Lewis. It is clearly not flat, it's not that hilly but the term undulating is to underplay the effort required to reach the top of any undulation. But we just love an adventure and we are now in a small guest house, dry and warm and with a fair weather forecast tomorrow, we shall reach the end of the islands and return to Stornoway for the ferry to Ullapool.

Saturday 1. 09. 2018

We left probably the best B and B on the planet this morning. Everything was perfect and the breakfast was outstanding. Our grateful thanks to Shona of Taylor Hill B and B in Leverburgh.

The wind of yesterday had finally subsided to just a waft which was not quite strong enough to deter the midgies who took seconds to locate our body heat and munch away. Along with the dying wind, the sun had hidden behind fluffy clouds which were definitely no longer fluffy. They sat brooding over the hills descending almost to the road. So a bit of a gloomy start but a perfect day for hill climbing!

The start of the climb over the hills between Harris and Lewis was not a disappointment. We love walking! After about 1km of pushing, we remounted and slowly pedalled onward and upward. The mist evaporated slowly and the scenery that emerged was spectacular. It does take your mind off complaining muscles. In this vacant mindset you may imagine my surprise when a voice cried Old Bones still rule! Our three aquaintances from our first overnight stay had pulled into a lay-by to say hi! Thank goodness we were actually riding (it was a very steep bit of hill). We now feature in photos which will travel back to America. Fame at last.!

The true upside of climbing up is that there is a going down bit to be unreservedly enjoyed - and we did. We have now arrived in Lewis and the topography has changed and gentled out a bit.We have arrived in Balallan and tomorrow should see us almost at the end of this magical set of islands.