And he's paddling upstream!

Sunday 29th September 2019

Bad Breisig - Dormagen via Bonn and Koln

93kms (Aided by a whizzy wind for much of the ride - Hooray)

Today has been most notable for its extraordinary variety, in terms of places and weather. The first 12 kms or so completed the scenic section of this part of the Rhine. Bonn followed rapidly and we were once again admiring churches and architectural wonders while weaving our way between the weekend runners, push chairs and wanderers. It all continued for so long that I thought maybe Bonn and Koln had become conjoined twins. But not so. 

In fact, we reached Koln some twenty plus kms further along the river and if we though Bonn was crowded Koln reached new heights. Being a Sunday and with the weather set fair at that moment, most of the city seemed to have migrated to the river side. Along its banks, the markets plied their trade and the density of bodies made it impossible to make headway on the bikes, so we walked. (gave my bum time to readjust). We did get a view of the cathedral although much of it was covered in scaffolding. Must be us - the same was true of Santiago when we arrived there! 

Thus far we had enjoyed the beauty of nature, of man's ingenuity on the construction front and now we were confronted with man's ingenuity on the industrial front. For many kms the banks of the river consisted of factories of staggering proportions. I have no idea what they produced with exception of Ford (cars, I suppose). As these installations require the barges to moor alongside the river bank, we cyclists were diverted inland for some distance. 

During the day, the weather has been as variable as the scenery, one minute sunshine, then rain, then lots of wind! And to continue with the theme of variety, I got yet another puncture (no idea how) but it was in the back tyre! Need to keep Master Mechanic on his mettle! 

We had taken the precaution of booking ahead so no panic this time about finding a bed for the night.

This river is an endless source of interest - what more awaits?

Koln and a lot of industry

Friday 27th - Saturday 28th September

Nierstein - Bacharach 

Bacharach - Bad Breisig via Koblenz

Total kms 164 (and the last ten nearly killed me!)

Weather was pretty grim yesterday and our start wasn't much better. Everything stopped at an horrendous main road so we knew we had missed something. After five minutes of leaving the hotel, we had been lost and found. Pleasant wander through the vineyards then along the river to Mainz. Another city of grand architecture and quite a few people! Searched out an excellent cake shop where the owner clearly felt sorry for this misfortunate foreigner who understood no German, and presented me with a present of extra cake, free. So many nice folk around. Traverse of Mainz was going really well until we were halted by a very high fence, beyond which a new huge road bridge was being constructed, and no way forward for two hapless cyclists. Never beaten for long, we found an alternative .

The scenery was changing rapidly as we entered the Rhine Gorge from flat plains to steep rock walls and vineyards clinging to the hillside. Pretty villages followed one after the other and so intrigued were we by all this, we took the wrong ferry across the river. Al was totally bemused by his magic machine having gone bonkers until we realised our error! Navigation experts! Huh!

Retired for night in another touristy village and enjoyed a supermarket meal on our medieval balcony at the top of four flights of spiral stairs! Good view though.

So on to today. It is clear why all the tourist visiting the Rhine would want to wander along this bit. It historically interesting as well as being very picturesque. As ever, many people can spoil some of the natural beauty and the particularly ugly river cruisers (my very subjective opinion) of which there are many, do nothing to enhance the river traffic. 

Koblenz with its magnificent fortified hillside town and cable car came and went as we weaved our way through the mindless throng. We passed Die Lorelei which looks like most of the cliffs along the gorge but some foresightful soul in the past has used the legend to draw in the crowds - clever stuff!

It has been a thoroughly pleasant ride, all dry and some sunshine. Met up with nostril wind towards 70kms (very bad timing) but had to keep going to avoid the overcrowding of accommodation in the honey pots. 

Lovely B&B and no crowds.

Wednesday 25th - Thursday 26th September

Drusingen - Dudenhofen

Dudenhofen - Nierstein

Total distance - 201kms

As we rode along yesterday, I was becoming increasingly concerned that there would be little to comment on. The banks (dykes)) on either side were unremittingly green with occasional glimpses of the real river and it's traffic. However, I need not have been overly concerned, as at around four in the afternoon the sh one t hit the fan. We had reached Germershein which is where we had planned to stop for the day. We found the first hotel and I found I had a flat tyre! Hid in a little corner for Al to carry out necessary tube change. Atmosphere a little testy but half an hour saw me riding again! Repair man extraordinaire.

We returned to our original intent, which was to find a bed for the night. Over an hour later we had exhausted all the options in town and took the decision to head for Lingenfeld some eight kms further on. Story was the same - all full! I had the great good fortune to receive unconditional help from a couple of youngsters in the final hotel. Sensing my anxiety ( it was now gone six and getting dark) they made copious phone  calls on my behalf, all with the same response, full! Until finally a positive response from an hotel in Dudenhofen some 18 kms further again. No option but to book the room, fix the lights to the bikes and ride like f…… By 07.30, we had taken the fastest shower ever and sat down to a meal.

Quite tired last night!!

Today, we had no intention of repeating punctures or lack of accommodation so designed a cunning plan to call ahead and book. That being the case the last 20kms were not ridden at lightning speed.

It has been a pretty gloomy day both in terms of weather (rain) and the scenery or lack of. There have been some very beautiful sights in the towns of Ludwigshafen and Worms which boast some fabulous architecture but much of our route ran next to the river. 

An interesting aspect of travelling with push bikes, is that we often see the beautiful and the not so beautiful. The latter, though, are providing the wherewithal, in order that society may function efficiently. Mind you, notices informing you that you are entering a danger zone and should the alarm sound you should move calmly away from the installation - (run like hell, more like) are a bit scary. No siren and we are still here to tell the tale but sobering nonetheless.

We are back on the banks of the Rhine now in a pretty place, looking forward to a bit more of the wet stuff tomorrow on our continuing Trek.

Viking River Cruise

Monday 23rd  - Tuesday 24th September 2019 

Kembs - Sundhouse

Sundhouse - Drusenheim via Strasbourg

Around about 160kms

It was going to be difficult to find anything really interesting to say on the cycling front as, for the most part, on the early part of these two days, all we had seen were trees, trees, the odd bird and the canal. Actually, a "canal " might be to give it airs; it was a murky channel into which half the riverbank trees seemed to have toppled.

However, as with everyday, something occurs to make it memorable. The choice of accommodation for the night in Kembs was limited to one - a B&B with a restaurant. Grand. The room was in a badly converted attic but boasted all the essentials. Our host was full of bonhomie so any shortcomings were easily overlooked. Not wishing to scour the village for an eating place, we reserved a table in the restaurant. Whatever the room lacked, the food made up for in spades. It was exquisite. It was expensive but a real and unexpected treat. The place was Michelin starred but in such an incongruous setting, small and inconspicuous.

Still on the subject of places to stay, Al had seen mention of a gite/chalet on the canal side in Sundhouse (we are on Monday night now!) We found the chalet but no means of access so poddled off into town to see if there was an alternative. A brasserie presented itself as a possible source of information. Sitting quaffing beer were our two compatriots from several days ago! After some faffing which I won't bore you with, the proprietor of said brasserie called a friend who said she could fix us up and would collect us in a while. So we shared a beer with Sean and Dave (yes they do have names) and sure enough madam duly arrived with the inevitable "follow me". We followed her beginning to expect where we were going. Yup, back to the chalet which was excellent. Joined the chaps for evening supper and so ended another interesting, dry and warm day.

However, by today, the canal has morphed into a vast river with massive barges moving tons of coal or rubble or something similar. The bankside has provided a playground for little creatures that were either water rats or very young coipu? (really not sure of that spelling). Going has been a mix of gravel and blacktop with protruding tree roots so bottoms are a little sensitive. Combined with light rain, it was sufficient for us to take a shorter day and lay up in a hotel with a restaurant which is shut so looks like pizza again.

Sunday 22nd September 2019

Luttingen - Kembs (France)

80kms

Before I recount the activities of today, I feel obliged to comment on the accommodation we stayed in last night. We have always maintained that wherever we have stayed, in whatever country, the greeting has always been the most telling thing. The spoken language doesn't matter but the body language and the tone of the greeting, most certainly does. With a warm and genuine greeting, almost any hotel, hostel, b&b or campsite can be relied upon to provide a pleasant experience. Should you find yourself in Luttingen the Kranz hotel is the place to stay as it is a fine example of what I have just outlined.

Here we go with comments on today after a very fine breakfast. The weather continues to hold although I overdid the extra layers this morning and worked my way into a great lather by coffee stop time.

 (In all the excitement I have forgotten to mention our companion of last evening. Another cyclist, a lady, with some years of experience, who hailed from Gap and was keen to extol the virtues of mountain living. We have an open invitation to bike or ski but at a level, methinks, we would be unable to meet.)

Onward with today; the highlight, if such it could be called, was the traverse of Basel. Having visited some very pretty villages and the longest covered bridge in Europe (think that is accurate), Basel was on another planet. It also kept running further away - initially 45 kms to eventually over 60! The approach was something of a bum burner bouncing along stony and dusty tracks so when our route wound it's way up, down, through and over, we were unimpressed. Nonetheless, we did emerge the other side only  slightly bruised and battered. 

Our way now, and over the next few days appears to follow a canal and is thus expected to be flat with lots of bouncing. Extra padding required!

Not as many power assisted bikes around today, only about half of the total, but when my bum hurts and I am chewing dust, I can barely bring myself to greet these usurpers even as I acknowledge that I will no doubt join their ranks at some time in the future.

Here's to the future!

Roman amphitheatre Basel

to Lutingen

Saturday 21st September 2019

Stein am Rhein - Luttingen 

86kms

The weather has not failed us yet and, after a chilly start, temperatures were riding to 21degrees plus. My wrinkly legs are proof of this - tanned to a shorts mark! Not a pretty sight. They are still working so I am grateful.

Our route this day has been flat with some quite big bumps. An accumulation of bumps did take its toll by the end of the day. We have flip flopped between Switzerland and Germany and often the only way to establish which country, is to hop into a local supermarket where you will be obliged to pay in Euros (Germany) of francs (Switzerland). 

There have been several highlights today; the first being our third visit to Rheinfal. It is the first time that we have approached it from above and the power of the water cannot fail to inspire awe. Tis a magnificent sight and was being enjoyed by the usual crowds on land and on the water.

The second was the traverse of a large and well attended market in a village I am ashamed to say, I cannot name. We were obliged, but happy, to walk through and scan the exhibitions without injuring any small children on the way. We exited without mishap, although we had lost some time but heyho it's all part of the journey.

With perfect timing we missed a turning only to find ourselves observing a firepersons' wedding. Not sure if it was the bride or the groom who warranted the attention or maybe, it was both. There was an arch of hoses, two fully equipped fire engines with flashing lights and weewahs - hopefully no real fires in the vicinity!

A grand day and to round it off, we have been offered this magnificent suite in a local hotel instead of a bedroom and all for the same price. Might need to be a bit more mindful tomorrow. Lots of forest, lots of trees and not much accommodation.

To Londau then Stein am Rhein

Goodbye to the mountains

Lindau

Thursday 19th - Friday 20th September

Vaduz - Stein am Rhein via Lindau, Bergenz and Konstanz (among others)

160kms.

Two more glorious days of sunshine , flowers, mountains, fields, villages and rivers. Thursday's ride started with Heidi fields hugged by the mountains and full of country smells to go with the cattle and the horses. Smiles were order of the day as we passed many a young mother walking prams, presumably with small children in them, smiling quietly wondering at their luck to be living in this paradise. Returning to the river and sadly the motorway (managed to avoid actually accessing it) it was notable that the volume of water is increasing, and that the local administration is very proud of their flood prevention works. It's on lots of notices! The water has also turned beige in protest no doubt.

We were heading into tourist country as we pedalled nearer to Lake Konstanz. We had been advised that this was an area favoured by the Germans on holiday and so it proved to be! It is stunning and it is easy to understand why lots of folk would want to be there - would just have preferred not quite so many!! Truly hundreds of visitors on bikes! Whoever thought of the electric bike must be a millionaire many times over. The riders now come in all shapes and sizes and with varying degrees of competence. There is no code of behaviour - you just wheely along oblivious of other track users and do your best to stay upright! Remarkably everyone seemed to avoid tragedy. It is notable that more than 80% of cycles were power assisted. Not quite sure how I feel about it all.

Leaving the heavy traffic behind, we followed the lake side for much of today passing through a number of old villages. Many have tried to maintain, at least some of the old and original buildings but it is also true that much is being built to feed the rich housing market. It is hard to imagine such a large continuous area of opulence anywhere in the UK surrounded by hills and lakes. Fair takes your breath away.

As ever, it is the people who inspire us, not always in a positive way as Al can vouch for after a short altercation with a minibus driver on a cycle track! There is little in the way of greeting other riders but hosts in the guest houses have, without exception, been charming. We will continue with our hellos and happy greetings and so onward with our trip.

Ferry to Kontanz

Stein am Rhein

Tuesday 17th September - Wednesday 18th September.

Andermatt to Vaduz via Ilanz

140 kms

We are two days into our expedition and during that time we have basked in the glory of the Alps, climbed 700 metres to the Overalppass, descended the hairpins without colliding with the Ferraris, Lamborghini's, Maclarens firing their engines in competition, located our river, negotiated single track mountain roads with hundreds of feet drop to the floor, crossed a truly magnificent gorge and finally arrived in Lichtenstein fighting a nostril wind. Who could ask for more?  There was a little more- I fell off! again! Just grazed and my hero mended the stuck front brake.

We have been relieved to discover that we are still able to ride our bikes despite three days of sitting in trains, although it has to be said that the last ride into Andermatt was a stunning trip through the mountains. It also appears that this little train actually climbs to the pass as I discovered as I summited (that's sportsman's speak for getting to the top of something). Al kept that very quiet! More incongruous was the lighthouse that had somehow left the coast and plonked down at the top of the pass! Just to confuse the exhausted walker or climbed maybe. However, most folk seemed to arrive by car and what cars they were. I did not joke when I commented on the makes of the ones we narrowly missed. Truly a road for Jeremy Clarksons lot. (except for a little bit in the middle where the road became a track and we still don't know how some of the cars didn't ground).

We have encountered many a set of road works today. Must be the seasons for propping up the embankments - good job really. Today has seen us emerge from the high mountains and scenery which has been very mixed - fabulous gorges, beautiful hills, delightful houses, concrete factories and motorways! One constant is the river which is a beautiful turquoise but very low. These were the only two days of significant height gain, apparently which is a blessing on one sense but does reduce the amount of stunning views. 

Mary on the bridge

Eurovelo 15 - The Rhine Cycle Route.

Friday 13th - Monday 16th September 2019

Oradour sur Vayres - Andermatt via Limoges, Montlucon, Clermont Ferrand, Lyon, Geneva, Brig and Andermatt. Approximately 900 kilometres by train except the 55kms from Oradour to Limoges (by bike).

We have arrived at the start of our cycle ride - at last! Each town represents a train change, some which have gone well and others which have left our dignity in tatters.

The ride from home to Limoges augered well. Al had found a picturesque, quiet route which he assured me, was flat. If you ignore the four of five hills we climbed, he was correct! I jest - it was a thoroughly enjoyable experience in the sunshine and tranquility of the countryside. Limoges, like all the cities mentioned was not tranquil.

As train/bike virgins our inexperience became obvious as we attempted to board our first train. This involved throwing the panniers through the door, dropping the bikes, the frenzy only ending with the straining of muscles and of finally heaving the bikes up the steps into the carriage! We have gained much experience since and now our system of locating the bike carriages and propping bikes before boarding has much improved our image (well, maybe a tad).

Limoges Gare

We have been staggered at the sheer volume of people darting around stations in a flurry of activity. We are now experts in translating arrival and departure times and even locating the correct platforms. Alan averted one possible catastrophe when he realised that Lyon Part Dieu was actually a station and not an indication of a part journey. Without his quick mind, we would have alighted in Lyon at entirely the wrong place!! 

We have enjoyed sufficient time to wander around Clermont Ferrand and Geneva. The first being a bit down at heel and the second, the most expensive place in the world. We now know why so few Swiss are fat - they can't afford the beer and soft drinks.

If has been quite a stressful (character forming) experience with a lot of early mornings and restless nights angsting about the morrow. We are looking forward to a good night's kip and true commencement of our journey - 10kilometres of 6% - that will get things going.