Al's Route Notes on EV1 Portugal

Route Notes for EV1 Portugal Atlantic Route -  June 2019

Background:

Route cycled from North to South because of prevailing northerly winds at this time of year.

Independent touring on fully loaded Thorn Raven Touring bikes with Rohloff gears.

GPX files downloaded from Eurovelo Portugal website in May 2019 to Garmin Edge Explore.

We are experienced riders  of “mature age” with 16,000 kms of cycling on Eurovelo routes.

Positives:

Many short sections on good dedicated cycle paths maintained to a high standard and suitable for touring cycling. GPX routing on these was good and, indeed, necessary. Surfaced road sections were, in some places, quiet with either a  good cycle path or an extra lane for slow traffic. The numerous cobbled sections were in good condition and a good bone shaker.

Negatives:

When cycling Eurovelo routes, I invariably find myself shouting at the lardy route planners who I imagine designed the route from Google Maps. This journey in Portugal was no exception with many sections of the route failing to come close to the essential standards for road surface set by European Cyclists Federation.  Many of the other criteria set by ECF and Eurovelo when applied to the Eurovelo Portugal  would rate this route “Badly Rideable” or “Not Rideable (ECF definitions).

Examples:

Sections of sandy gravel and large stones on slopes in excess of 10%. (First time it has taken the two of us to push one bike)

Sections on deep sand

Section on GR route with over 100 steps

20km section where the road surface had long ago been destroyed by fire leaving large loose stones, fine gravel and endless potholes.

Section on Motorway.

Section on road clearly signed “Cyclists Prohibited”

Numerous tracks barely rideable with loaded bikes.

10 Km Section through the most difficult part of Lisbon shown on GPX as a straight line.

5 Eurovelo signs in 600kms.

Portugal is a beautiful country with much to recommend it and I’m sure there is the potential for some excellent cycling. Unfortunately  the advertising for this route is, in my opinion, fraudulent. After 10 days, we abandoned the gpx route and made our own way south. We had lost faith in the route planners but worse, we feared for our safety and frequently resorted to pushing.

I challenge the designers of this route to load up their bikes with camping kit for a fortnight on the road and complete their route with a smile on their faces.

Having got rid of that, I can honestly say that we finished this route with an immense sense of satisfaction.

gone swimming

Till the next time.

Final comments on EV1 Atlantic Route Portugal( a dubious coastal cycle route from Northern Portugal to the South)

I must commence by thanking all those people who have read and responded so positively to the blog. It is really intended as a record of progress for Alan and myself (memory not always being very reliable) but it is nonetheless gratifying to know that it also brings a small amount of pleasure to a few followers; not to mention the encouragement we obtain from your comments.

The most notable result of this ride for us, was the sense of achievement. At times, it was very testing both physically and mentally but we had managed to overcome any problems and meet the challenges head on. It has also provided us with total confidence in the ability of the bikes to deal with very difficult terrain (often, the only limitation was our personal ability and considerations of safety). Alan is dealing with the proclivities of the route and you will already be aware, from comments in the blog, that much of it was of an unacceptable standard. However, it is clear from the number of commercial bike tour enterprises that we encountered, that there exist safer and easier ways of exploring Portugal by bike.

The country, the coast and the people are a delight. In particular to the north, we cycled through villages still strip farming (well, not the villages, but the people!). The coastline is glorious, and where there existed cycle paths, it was possible to watch the waves and still be vigilant enough to avoid pedestrians. Other times, though, our eyes were firmly fixed on the ground and sightseeing was a luxury we could only afford if we stopped – which we did, if only to catch our breath. By contrast, the south of the country appears to be more densely populated with an emphasis on tourism. Thus, roads are busier and drivers less concerned about the hapless cyclist. It has to be said though, that we received many signs of encouragement from drivers and even the police in the form of toots (as opposed to blasts) on horns and thumbs up appearing out of windows. Even other cyclists training for the Tour de France! acknowledged our efforts as they overtook us or passed going the other way.

It has been an experience like no other of our Eurovelo rides and needs to be approached with caution but with the potential to be a superb endeavour.

Sunday 09.06.19

Alijezur - Lagos

We left our lovely hotel and bakery armed with lots of goodies for coffee and lunch stops. We have decided to go for Lagos today missing some of the gravelly tracks. We enjoyed a beautiful run through the forest of pines descending into small rocky bays most of which had been commandeered by surfers.

The weather is still with us although the wind is very strong and not always behind. We ended our exploration of the woods and bays and took a more main route to Lagos. Efficient but not that pretty. It offered the advantage of a Yelloh campsite which have everything under the sun except ground of sufficient softness to take pegs! We bent a few but got the tent up. Washroom facilities were better than most five star hotels! We took some shelter from the wind by setting up the tent next to a pretty huge camper (British). Very friendly couple who offered the use of their chairs and very welcome they were too.

Enjoyed a buffet dinner, (not a camp meal) which was excellent and despite the noise we were asleep within minutes of crawling into sleeping bags. (Or in some cases - falling!)

We have made the decision that tomorrow will see the end of the ride. The Algarve has little to recommend it from our viewpoint.

Monday. 10.06.19

Lagos - Albufiere

Lagos was sadly like all the towns we have ridden through since turning the corner. Touristy, mucky and busy. During this ride, we have been able to experience a real feel for Portugal which for us has seen the country divided into three. North to Porto then a bit in the middle which included Lisbon if you were a history buff and didn't mind being mowed down by wandering sightseers and then the south, the Algarve which has been a disappointment. Towns built to accommodate visitors who have not really taken care of them. Suffice to say they have not offered us any pleasure in visiting.

The one thing that has been a constant is the driving - for such nice people, they turn into demons in their vehicles. Speed and a lack of courtesy is the norm and can be terrifying on a bike.

Still, I digress a little. Having taken the decision to complete our ride today, we needed to get to the car hire in time to arrange a vehicle of some kind, large enough to take bikes and trailers. We were doing really well until I rode through some glass and my back tyre expired with much hissing. Al to the rescue with all this safety gear and on the side of the road in the hot sun be fixed everything. Wow!

Having organised the car, we made for our bike friendly hotel - not! I did my usual request for a room and despite Alan having consulted booking.com, which stated plenty of available rooms for 122 Euros which was a lot. The smug young lady on reception explained they had one room without a balcony for 144 Euros. Very cross cos I knew she was lying, I informed the great one and he challenged the cost using as proof his phone information. Well, well … Suddenly the price changed and hoorah we also had a balcony. It would suggest that I did not fit the criteria for suitable client!

Saturday 08. 06. 19

Porto Covo - Alijezur.

Porto Covo was beautiful and we took breakfast in a cafe along with most of the rest of the population and looking forward to a coastal run with all the promise of views of the sea and beaches. We both had some misgivings based on our experience so far and we were not disappointed. Track started well. A bit softy sandy, got worse and finally ended on the road. It emerged that this stunning run along the coast was at best a walking route (surface of soft sand and about a metre wide). Not even a mountain biking track!

By trekking about, we did find some glorious beaches, and at last a metalled road. Good old Al.

On a positive note, we did have a following wind for most of the ride and the weather was great.

Really decent hotel tonight - very bike friendly. (Bikeotel.com)

I cannot imagine what cock-ups await us tomorrow! But will sleep well tonight!

Friday  07. 06. 19

Setabul - Porto Covo

Up and away to the ferry which was made very easy to access by the very friendly and efficient staff. Calm crossing and then up the ramp and the first flat ride for some time. We really did bowl along through sand dunes and line forests. Stopped eventually for a coffee and met with fellow cyclists from New Zealand. They were going only a short distance to Melissa without any kind of map! You will understand the importance of this omission as the blog proceeds.

We had made a decision in view of the lack of hills, to continue to Sines. All going well with wind up our arse and a good wide duel carriageway. And then, just when we thought EV could get no more ludicrous it did! Our road turned in an instant to a motorway! Exit we must and did to nowhere. A sandy track to the beach or a half made road to goodness knows where. (I now have no faith left in our route instructions but absolute faith in Al, who somehow got us to Sines almost impossible unless using a car!

Found a great campsite some 15kms further on and, even better, a fabulous Italian restaurant whose food was outstanding.

Crashed!

107km total today .

rice fields

Wednesday. 05.06.19

Azenhas do Mar - Lisbon

Today has been a day of total contrasts - absolutely awful/delightful and everything in between. As the awful was at the beginning of the day I shall begin with that and make no apology for telling it as it was! We had spent a short burst on a mainish road and after some discussion decided to go with the EV route. It plunged down to within inches of the beach, crossed a river and thence followed our worst experience to date. Even allowing for our advancing years this was a route to test the most resolute cyclist. It began with a climb (quite used to that) on sandy but solid ground for around 50metres. Then we were on loose gravelly sand, followed by loose rock and inclines of more than 10 - 15%. Downhill was just as difficult to negotiate, throwing the wheels in all directions and with no stability and no passing traffic of any kind, an accident would have been a serious incident so we walked! No escape was possible so perseverance was required. After some 4 kilometres and when we thought things could deteriorate no further, they did. We faced a climb so severe that the only way to achieve the summit was for two of us to push one bike and then return for the other and repeat the exercise. Underfoot purchase was unreliable (sort of two steps forward and one back) and the weight unrelenting. After some 6 kilometres and about two hours later, we reached a metalled road albeit and uphill one, but a doddle after our recent ascents.

Our reward for all this effort was a magnificent downhill into Cascais and a long run along a superb bike track right on the edge of the sea. We positively sailed along in the sunshine greeting oncoming cyclists with a relieved smile. This continued until we reached Lisbon. Now, I acknowledge that we are not really city folk but one thing worse than a city, is one full of sightseers. As we left the riverside, we found ourselves engulfed the multitudinous hordes, all of whom seemed oblivious of everyone and everything outside their own group including two socking great bikes! Nonetheless, we wove our way ever upwards, in search of our hotel! It seemed to be one hop ahead of us for about two kilometres; as we got close so it hopped. An hour after departing the river, hooray and hoorah it stopped moving and we put our bikes in a lift which took us down to the parking - it took the cars too!

I am certain that the city of Lisbon is a grand one and that all those folk were having a good day but just not our bag.

So, a day of mixed emotions but a certain amount of pride in successfully achieving our destination.

From be sea - follow the yellow bits

Thursday.  06. 06. 19

Lisbon - Setubal

Following the experience of yesterday, we paid more than usual heed to the proceedings for this day. Our first move was to catch the ferry across to the other side of the river and then according to EV we were going to cover 84 kilometres of coastal hills! Now, based on experience, we were reluctant to commit ourselves to such an undertaking. In addition to the uncertainty of the safety of the route, was a pretty rubbish weather forecast. Heavy rain and strong winds were expected around 4 o'clock and no amount of grit and determination was going to allow us to meet our target of Setabul in good time. The decision was made to stick with the main drag and a shorter route which would ensure that we beat the rain to our accommodation (not the tent!)

As it turned out, this was a wise move,as less than a third of the way into the ride, the GPS gave up the ghost. Maybe in sympathy, I know not.

A generally uneventful day and just what the doctor ordered.

Sunday  02.06.19

Peniche

We took this day off from cycling as we had found a very nice and reasonably priced hotel. Took the opportunity to visit the launderette and get rid of many unpleasant smells.

Found an Intermarche and managed to acquire commodities that the little micro markets don't sell.

We enjoyed two fabulous meals in Pedro's restaurant. Am weaning Alan onto fish.

We went for a stroll around the harbour trying and failing to remember Peniche from the rally in 2002. Nothing looked the same. Still, I suppose 17 years is quite a long interval between visits. Only the old citadel walls were familiar.

A good day's relaxation.

Monday  03. 06. 19.

Peniche - Santa Cruz.

The day began with a conversation over breakfast with an American couple, the female half of which was visiting Portugal with some students to teach water colour painting using Porto as the inspiration. We avoided all mention of the Trump!

Feeling clean and fresh we powered off (bit optimistic) and within half a kilometre EV had led us to a dead end! It was our great good fortune to come across a local who, with the aid of much gesticulation, showed us how to re-route.

The weather was cooler but still bright, showing off the local flora in all its vibrant colours. In one such garden, a lady was doing her washing in a concrete sink which seem very popular in this area, particularly in the campsites. Anyway, she was pummeling away and I bid her good day and her face lit up with a beautiful smile which I returned probably less beautifully.

I had made a comment in my little book before we set off on our venture, that this ride was a bit more uppy and downy. Suffice to say I was correct and that will be the end of the matter. At the bottom of one of these hills, was a beautiful small village, Santa Nova was its name and here we lunched with views of crashing waves, a small river, fascinating and somewhat precarious rock formations, and virtually no people.

Thanks to the clever and thoughtful amendments to our route, (all Al's) we arrived at our campsite with time to spare. I use the term campsite loosely, as it was really just row on row of the wierdist caravan and tent combinations with little streets in-between. Sort of hillbilly township. Tents were clearly something of a novelty as of the only two places available for pitching, one was concrete and the other, sand. We opted for the sand and prayed that there would only be light winds. It rained a bit but no harm done.

Shortly after our arrival a guy arrived on a motor bike. He was a German biker named Sven and we shared a very enjoyable meal and an evening of conversation in English, I might add, as he spoke the language very well. We would certainly have struggled in German. Still feeling quite fresh as we turned in.

Tuesday 04. 06. 19

Even with the interruption of the rain which, needless to say, stopped as soon as I had retrieved shoes and drying knickers from outside, we enjoyed a good night's kip.

We breakfasted in town after bidding farewell to Sven. By chance we chose a cafe whose owner spoke quite perfect English which she was anxious to practice. This meant that my complicated order for breakfast and sandwiches for lunch was met with enthusiasm.

The weather was overcast and not that warm but what was to come was quite a shock. It began with a drizzle, then a bit heavier drizzle (Waterproofs on) the full storm downpour, and visibility reduced to not very much. And unusually we were on a busy main road which was soon a running river and a very scary place to be. We left the main road at the earliest sensible junction and the rain finally eased leaving us pretty soaked. Astoundingly in less than an hour, the rain ceased for good and visibility improved no end, a further hour later, the sun was shining and we were steaming.

At this point in our quite uppy/downy ride, the route directed us round and under the main road onto a sandy track leading to yet another beach. For us, another dead end - no way through- big fence - lots of don't you dare signs. So, back up the fifth or so very steep hill of the day, so steep, in fact, that a campervan was hanging precariously on the edge of a ditch on the side of the road. There was little we could do to help although we did make the gesture. Workmen, from the road above we busy trying did things as we carried on with our pushing.

We have met in passing three other laden bikers today only one of which was trying to follow the Eurovelo route and having about as much success as we were and they were doing it the correct way - south to north.

We have now finished our seven, really quite big climbs, and are back at sea level ready for a beer and a meal.

Friday 31.05.19

Sao Pedro de Moel - Praia da Vieira

While the rest of the cyclists who had shared our hotel were still eating breakfast, Al managed to extricate our bikes from among the many that were parked in the bike shed. Our overnight room had provided a balcony view of the sea and an opportunity to hang very niffy clothes outside. So today, we smell a little less. Not, however, for very long. Following a jolly ride along the front for not nearly long enough, we were headed for the hills and I do mean hill. As ever, the effort was rewarded with fabulous 360degree views and a coffee spot in the SHADE providing us with table and bench. Such a treat!

It has been another really hot day with temperatures around the thirties. This may have, in part, accounted for my lapse of concentration while cutting open a bread roll with my penknife. The outcome was a small stabbing incident which resulted in quite a lot of blood. The injury was not serious and quickly dealt with although Al insisted on trying to clean up some of the mess on the ground. [And the mess on her helmet where the raised arm technique caused a red shower - Ed. ] It had been going so well as the chosen lunch spot was high above the front of a town whose name I cannot remember. Suffice to say, it was all very pretty with fishing boats and happy children playing on the sand.

We have received much encouragement today from various sources - fellow cyclists (many of whom were getting a lift), other road users, workmen and just folk in their gardens. It really does help.

We had reduced distance travelled today by going the extra mile yesterday and very glad we were too as temperatures continued to rise and the ups getting no easier. The campsite, when we eventually found it, left much to be desired and despite advertising a bar and restaurant, neither was open. BUT, it was Friday night and Alan's night for cooking! His creation of pasta with sardines and olives was excellent. Glad to rest weary bones tonight.

Saturday. 01.06.2019

Foz do Arelho - Peniche

We breakfasted in style outside the amenities there being no other built up area to cook and as the ground was not only like concrete, as we had found out last night when trying to ram home pegs, it was also tinder dry. In this unlikely situation, we fell into conversation with a gentleman who spoke perfect English and was keen to discover what in the world we were doing. We explained. ('Why are you doing this?' is becoming an oft posed question and one to which we need to find a satisfactory answer. Any ideas much appreciated!) We did ascertain from our chat, that the weather was unseasonal. It was, apparently, supposed to be spring and not full summer. One could be forgiven for thinking otherwise. It was early morning and already very hot so even packing the tent was a very sweaty affair.

As I have the good fortune not to be deaf, my nights are punctuated with noise, in particular dogs barking. Portugal does seem to have more than its fair share of dogs, particularly yappy ones which only dare to bark at night. Add to that the local parrot in a cage, and it was quite a cacophony of sound.

We, or at least I, had hoped for some more in the way of interesting wildlife around the shores of Lagoa de Obidos which, as it's name suggests is a sea water lagoon of some size. Going around its shores was too much for Eurovelo, who thought it much more interesting/fun to conjure up a pile of hills which did had its compensations. We passed through the small and original old Portuguese villages we have seen little of thus far, and it was a change to see small farming groups, small whitewashed houses and not a villa in sight. They, the villas that is, were not far away and the most ostentatious of them was next to a golf complex complete with a Marriott's Hotel! No, we did not attempt admittance. In fact poverty returned and we were on a dirt track again, which culminated in a sand dune. With our waning strength, we pushed and pulled the bikes through and had a momentary collapse and sense of humour failure.

We were now seriously overhot so, it was with some relief that we entered Peniche. This night we were going to find an hotel and our first port of call was the tourist information office which was devoid of any helpful information. It had the good fortune, though, to be situated opposite a small hotel which was happy to store our bikes in the empty shop next door and offer us a room for 35 euros including breakfast. Too good an opportunity to miss and we took the offer for two nights in order to have a bit of a rest and properly wash our stinking gear.

distant forest fires

Thursday 30.05.2019

Figueira da Foz - Sao Pedro de Moel

There is a big bridge which spans the river at Fig da Foz and we did need to cross said river but we were unclear as to whether this magnificent span was a motorway! (Memories of Sicily came to mind). Erring on the side of caution, we thought it better to take the long route to a second crossing. As that decision was made, Alan spotted a group of cyclist pedalling over the bridge. We found the access but the cycle track was, as you would expect, on the other side of the barrier! Having noted the speed and the size of the vehicles using the road a bit of faffing was required to locate the start of the barrier and make sure we were on the right side of it. It was quite an unnerving experience even protected by the barrier, how the group preceding us stood up to the traffic, I don't know. They were from Rome so maybe it was chicken feed for them. Safe on the far bank, and having deviated from the proscribed route, it took Master Navigator a few moments of concentration to come up with an alternative way on, which he did, needless to say.

Everything which is described as passing through lush forest is now a misnomer as the trees have been destroyed by fire and stand like black telegraph poles providing no shade whatsoever on a very long road.

Perhaps the most significant thing about today, had been the unexpectedly high temperature so lots of sweating and lots of drinking. Neither of us could face erecting a tent in the heat so very sensibly opted for a hotel with showers and air conditioning. We know how to live! We are also sharing the accommodation with a couple of guided groups who have been grasshoppering with us for much of the day.

As we gained a few kms with the bridge crossing, we are a little into tomorrow's route which might be to the good as I have made a note that we may have some serious climbing to do or maybe not. Looking forward to it all anyway.

the view from the bridge Figueira da Foz

Tonight's stop

On the way to 'Figgy Foz'

Road through Portugal - Tuesday 28thMay

Porto - Sao Jacinta

Refreshed from our night in a real bed, and a long conversation with a gentleman from Thailand, we made an enthusiastic start. The track or boardwalk really was stunning following the beach - ah, but then, with all the high winds the boards were knee deep in sand! Turn round, found a road, then steps! A very squidgy lane allowed us to avoid the steps and then began a massive detour around the salt marshes. A great place for bird watching or providing a feast for the midgies. Lunch was a very rushed affair accompanied by much flesh slapping! Eventually, we had nearly completed the circumnavigation except for the last couple of kilometres to a necessary bridge crossing, against the wind. We do commiserate with the cyclists determinedly fighting with it all day! The wind I mean.

A one and a half wait for the ferry ensued where we met up with a very gutsy American lady, so we passed the time very amiably chatting about bike routes in various parts of the world. Exit from the ferry was less than easy with the route dictating that we take a dual carriageway which, needless to say, prohibited bikes and those people riding them! Undaunted, we found an alternative and 12 kilometres later our tent was pitched, we were clean and heading for somewhere to eat. And did we find the right place. Looked like nothing, but the fish platter that arrived would have challenged the best restaurant for quality and taste. Superb! Made all the more enjoyable as we were sharing the space with a group of guys on a jolly. And very jolly they were too. A grand end to the day.

Sao Jacinta - Figueira da Foz  

Wednesday 29th May

This really was not our day! The first hour or so was fine. We breakfasted in the camp site cafe, waved to our host of the previous evening as we rode passed and found out path pdq. An hour or so later we were much less sanguine. We discovered that when the Portuguese say a road is damaged, it is actually, totally destroyed. In all our thousands of kilometres of riding some pretty dubious paths, this was 22 kms of the worst, by a country mile. Sadly, we were committed before we realised that these massive potholes and loose stones were to continue unabated. Unable to lift eyes from the road and threatening to take a fall at any time, it was exhausting and very slow. Clearly, there were alternatives cos we met a group at the end of this arduous adventure who were on a guided ride and their guide had made it clear that the route we had followed was impassable! The forestry we were in was completely destroyed by fire and so had the surface of the road. According to the GPX route we were exactly on course.

Thinking that was the worst over (well it was,but the next bit was a very close second) we headed off for the last twelve kms to our destination. Now we were confronted with a 14% hill, followed by a road blocked by huge boulders. There was just enough room to squeeze through onto the unmade road on the other side. Impossible to ride with laden bikes, we forged onward and upward (a couple of kms) 'til we came to the second pile of boulders, much like the first. Finally, on a metalled road, we hurtled downhill into Figueira. Forget camping! Found a very reasonably priced hotel and rested our quite weary bodies.

NB. This is NOT a completed Eurovelo route or even close and we suspect, has been lifted from a map and certainly not ridden. It is some years from completion so BEWARE!