Saturday 08.09.2018

Neptune's Staircase - Oban

I shall not dwell on the disappointing start to this our last day except to mention an altercation with the manageress of this 'posh’ hotel. I rarely complain but a faulty radiator in our bathroom had set up a banging which in my exhausted sleep, I had not heard for some time. When I became aware of the noise, I got up, traced the source and turned off the offending towel rail. At the same time the phone rang to let me know that other guests were being disturbed. All resolved. In view of the prestige of the Moorings Hotel, I had expected some small compensation for a very disturbed night. Not so. When I gently suggested this might be an appropriate gesture, the manageress went for me like a Rottweiler and suggested that I should have woken earlier and solved her problem. I had not expected much but I had not expected such aggression. I apologized to the young receptionist for starting her day badly and left to load my bike. Such a shame!

Still, all that needed to be put aside and get on with the job of riding. This was a truly lovely ride. Nearly all of it was off road and very varied and always accompanied by the beauty of the Highlands. We had to make it to the Camusnagual ferry for 10o’clock in Fort William. What a funny little boat - the bikes were strapped to the roof and the panniers had to be loaded separately! Despite its small size, it was full of walkers and cyclists (full was only about a dozen bodies). Weather still holding and, after reloading the bikes in the sunshine, we set off along the lockside - really lovely. The second ferry from Corran was altogether different - much bigger with cars but free for bikes! This well designed route continued to please and at 80 kms we were feeling cautiously elated - nearly there. THEN the final ten kms rose in a series of ups and downs to over 300 feet which doesn’t sound much but the day’s total was over 3000ft. To say we were tired would be to underestimate substantially our actual fatigue. BUT we had made it back to our campsite and our van. Group hugs, fizzy and pasta led to instant deep sleep.