3 Grumpys!!

Thursday  17. 05.2012        Villandry – Chaumont sur Loire  69kms

Our start was a little tardy as we meandered through breakfast and then had to (no, Alan had to) sort out the posting of the blog. This required a good deal of wandering around the hotel in order to procure an adequate internet signal. (It’s a wonder he doesn’t get challenged for loitering). Finally all was done and we were ready to retrieve the bikes. Walked out of the door and not only was it raining but v. v. cold. I/we had dithered about including buffaloes in our luggage and erred on the side of caution. I wore mine all day! I also moaned all day!

This was truly a Mrs. Grumpy day. Nostril wind was of tree damaging proportions and despite my very best efforts the only word that sprang to mind was the sort of expletive I cannot use in a family blog but it begins with ‘f’. Branches were falling from the trees and the path was covered in twigs which caused the trailers to bounce and make pedalling even more difficult. (You can see the frame of mind I was in!) In view of my anguish Mr. Navigater avoided the route that would have gone over the hill and far away so that we might admire a few more chateaux, and kept to the much, much flatter roads along the river. There were points of interest like the caves along the roadside built into the cliffs for storing and selling the local wines. I acknowledge that for much of the time I was not a cheery cycle companion. My thanks to Al for being so patient. Anyway, a final push up cobbles (I have forgotten to mention those but they are, it seems, very popular in this area as a charming addition to authenticity? Mmm………) and we were within sight of our campsite.

For the princely sum of eight Euros, we found a relatively sheltered and isolated spot and got the tent up. (Getting good at this now). I whizzed back the few hundred metres into the village to acquire a much needed bottle of wine. It only took me a few minutes, but on my return, our little green tent had been encircled by about a dozen motorhomes! To add insult to injury, the gang met under the awning of the motorhome immediately behind us – noise, they could do noise. Mostly laughing and good humoured noise, it is true, but we had hoped for a little more tranquillity. To their credit, they knocked off about eight and not long afterwards, we slid into sleeping bags.

magpies and elephants

Wednesday 16.05.2012   Saumur – Villandry  63kms

Still very nippy this morning and, having shared our breakfast with the magpies, I made a smart move to the heated toilet block to dress for our ride. I have to say Alan wasn’t far behind, but it was impossible to leave the pitch for fear of an air attack!

Now here's an idea for the next trip

I had not expected to start eating my elephant quite so soon on this trip, but today I began to nibble. (For those of you new to the blog, my mantra when things require a humungus effort on my part, is to recall how to eat an elephant – one mouthful at a time!) Now this usually happens when I am confronted by a huge hill but on this occasion, I felt as though I was riding through treacle. And it is only the first week! Shortly after lunch my eyes strayed to my back tyre and it was with a mixture of relief and frustration that I realised there was a lot less air in it than there should have been. A puncture? Thankfully not; a bit of pumping by Mr. Technician and all was well. What a relief to know that it was not my increasing age or a decreasing of general fitness, I was, in effect, riding through treacle.

We did pass through a memorable town although for what it was memorable I cannot recall except that its name was Candes, it was old and we shall return there in the future, probably by car.

Thankfully my tyre incident had been sorted before our route took us on a devious route above the river in order that we might be impressed by the vineyards. Not entirely successful, as we have already seen quite a lot of vineyards and it was cold and windy. Forewarned now, Mr. Navigator was not fooled a second time and we avoided the next foray into wine growing country and stuck with the river, surprisingly the Vienne for a short time.

We had already decided on an inside evening in view of the pending rain (which never really materialised) and a night in a proper bed after a proper meal. This one was a Logis run by Mr. Everlastingly Cheerful. After the proper and delicious meal, washed down with an equally delicious bottle of wine, we were both too tired or too pi…………..d or both, to finish and post the blog. Always tomorrow!

There's two grumpys

Tuesday 15.05.2012  Montjean sur Loire – Saumur.        89kms

We have improved on our decamping abilities. Mind you, having breakfast prepared for us probably contributed to our level of efficiency. By 09.30 we were on our bikes and pedalling uphill out from the site. Ah, but the wind……………. Nostril had metamorphosed into whizzy. Hoorah! 

The weather forecast had forecast (as it does) that today would start fine but that showers might be expected around lunchtime and then there would be a return to fine weather. How right can they be? At precisely 12.10 it rained! By 14.30 the sun reappeared. Ten out of ten! Didn’t prevent us from getting wet but at least it wasn’t a surprise. At about this time we had our first encounter with a Mr. Grumpy we had not met before. A jolly “Bonjour” met with sullen silence and a glower. Several kilometres further along Mr. Grumpy passed us in the opposite direction. This bizarre coming and going continued for several hours and his demeanour changed not one wit. So, it’s true there is more than one grumpy old man in the world!

Our whizzy wind continued to increase in strength so we thought to profit from all this free air and  just keep on going. Saumur promised a campsite with all the bells and whistles so on we went. As ever, on reaching a large town all signs disappeared. All we wanted was sight of a particularly large river. Not much to ask you might think. Mmm… Decathlon, Super U, Lidl but no sign of a river. “Ask that nice man, Mary.” Nice man pointed us in the opposite direction and in less than half an hour, we found our five star site! Needless to say, only about two stars were actually operating! Nonetheless, we had a sheltered spot for the tent and with the temperature plummeting, we pitched camp and dived into the depths of our bags for all our thermal togs.

As the cycle tracks had very successfully circumnavigated all the towns and villages we were somewhat bereft of nourishment. After a hurried trip back into the main street to purchase minimal supplies, I returned to find that the magpies had made free with what little we had! They finally met their match in Mr. Bird-scarer! 

And we thought we were mad

Monday  14.05.2012   Thouare sur Loire – Montjean sur Loire  63kms.

 On our way back from morning ablutions, we encountered our neighbours who were journeying through France a velo. If we thought we were intrepid, these folk were planning to be on the road for two years! Not only in summer either! Felicitations to them both, and maybe they will find themselves in the Haute Vienne some time.

Before our departure, we sought to say farewell to the welcoming lady of the previous evening and compliment her on the magnificent gardens. Her parting handshake near crushed my fingers. Must be the gardening.

I had already made a note of the wind direction (begins with an n) and for a good part of today there was a reminder of Sweden although here the trees were interspersed with cows of varying types. The wind continued to increase in strength, so when a sign appeared insisting that bikes be pushed across a fairly long bridge, we were happy to oblige. Even so, there remained little room for two way vehicles which whizzed by with barely a hairsbreadth of space twixt them and us. At the end we were presented with the first almost impossible demountable kerb!

After 60 odd kilometres of fighting with old nostril wind the campsite was a blessed relief. Our pitch ignored the roaring of said wind and provided calm and warmth, thanks to copious and stragtegically placed hedges. Our hosts had been very welcoming and at small cost we indulged in a supper of sorts ( croque monsieur and chips) washed down with and exceptional little local wine. We even partook of an excellent breakfast. 

We Had It All

Sunday  13.05.2012. St. Nazaire – Thouare sur Loire    65kms

The start was not quite as quick as we had intended. After checking, re-checking and re-re-checking, the clock was on its way to ten o’clock. Finally, with trailers attached, a farewell to Deborah, Brendan and Virginie, our hostess we clipped in and slowly drew away from the hostel. Except for this black Mondeo which kept overtaking us and photographing our efforts, all seemed fine. The Mondeo eventually gave up and went off with its occupants to holiday for another day! Look forward to seeing the pics when we get home.

We whistled along into my favourite wind and were overwhelmed at the plethora of signs and the well maintained route. (Further less favourable comments will follow.) Within not many minutes of our start, Alan’s shout of ‘dog’ put us on red alert. And then the most extraordinary thing happened – the dog put its tail between its legs and ran for its life in the opposite direction. A first! We have never managed to scare a dog before but look forward to doing it again – if only we knew what it was we did!  Now as well as dogs, we are used to tractors but not when they leap out of a junction with those humungus prongs preceding the vehicle. Just missed! Try harder next time!

After a free ferry crossing, we began to approach Nantes. Our plan to clear the city on a Sunday and thus avoid most of the traffic was going really well even if the scenery was industrial sites and exceedingly smelly Gaz factory. What we hadn’t counted on was that much of the local population and no doubt many visitors also, had decided to take the air round the centre of town. At this point, with pedestrians, cars, bikes, scooters and pushchairs all vying for position, all the signs disappeared! (Comme d’habitude). We hadn’t expected the arrival of Mr. Master Navigator quite so soon but he swung into action even guiding us along the Boulevard de Cardiff which made us feel right at home, and Nantes finally petered out and we found ourselves once more beside the Loire and heading in the right direction.

The riverside after Nantes was delightful, boasting a host of spring flowers and absurdly a house half submerged in the river. Yes, I do have photographic proof. And then with almost perfect timing, a campsite of exceptional quality appeared and for the princely sum of 12 Euros, we pitched our tent, (after a free glass of kir), cobbled together a meal and thought ourselves most fortunate.

Ready or Not

12.05.20012 St. Brevin L’Ocean ( very pretty it is too)

Another year, another route, another adventure! 

 The last few days have witnessed a flurry of activity as would be expected. Lists have been ticked, domestic chores have been undertaken, instructions for visitors have been written, and kind neighbours have been approached to keep an eye on the house. Most important has been the offer from Deborah and Brendan to ferry us to our start point at the mouth of the river Loire. Most plans have gone without a hitch but NO hitch at all is always unlikely and, despite his numerous check lists, it was Alan who perpetrated this particular hitch by leaving behind the most vital of objects. No, not the bike but his bag, wherein lay his bank cards, car documentation and passport! Realisation dawned just about half an hour en route. Passing a bar, Brendan sniggered that Deborah had on one occasion left her handbag in said bar. This was followed by a strangled cry of “Where is my bag?”. Not anywhere in the car! An hour or so later, with bag collected from Chez Nous, we were outside the same bar. I will leave to your imagination, dear reader, the taunts that followed this small act of carelessness. Tee hee……..

After the long journey, sub-zero temperatures, fog and grinding ascents of last year (not to mention broken bones) the commencement of this new venture has shown a very different face. The journey, despite the deviation, took only some four or five hours, the temperatures are in the low twenties, the sky is almost clear blue and the route is almost flat! Thus, in these balmy conditions have we explored the starting point of our track, visited the seaside and lazed by the pool at our gite. (La Pasada – Very good and cycle friendly)  Only my old friend ‘nostril wind’ has tried to spoil the day and failed. We have enjoyed a gentle introduction to this year’s quest and we look forward to sharing this evening with our chauffeurs and quaffing the odd glass of wine.

Tomorrow, up and off and who knows what awaits. 

Mary's Back Blogging

May is here again. The same cannot be said for Spring!

As with many challenging experiences, memories re-organise themselves and the more pleasurable bubble to the surface and the least pleasant plummet to the depths. Such is human nature or mine anyway. So, my enthusiasm at the prospect of once more riding the trail almost saw us drowned before we had got underway. I quashed my enthusiasm for commencing this journey at the beginning of May, and truculently agreed with Mr. Organiser (who has once again been responsible for all the hard work and logistics), to delay take off until the middle of said month. It seems that he may have been communing with the god of weather and had been alerted to the fact that this was to be the wettest April on record! I know not how many inches of water have been deposited on the earth but it has unremittingly fallen from a miserably grey sky for over two weeks and winds, nostril or otherwise, have downed large trees. Two soggy cyclists would have been easy pickings for a series of unforgiving depressions.  My man may also have had a passing acquaintance with the god of bad teeth who decreed that I would require time consuming treatment on a large and painful molar. (a paltry inconvenience compared with the broken bones of last year.) Training has all but halted on the roads and continued in the loft courtesy of our machines of torture. The dentist has contributed with her own machine of torture. So another ten days must pass before we set off for the mouth of the Loire. Ten days, during which, I am assured, we will see a diminution in the amount of wetness and a re-acquaintance with a benevolent sun. Not easy to believe as I gaze through the window at the stair rods spattering the garden.

One of the greatest pleasures of our last undertaking, was the communication I enjoyed with all you readers (10,000 page views from over 30 countries)- so welcome all.  We commence this new venture at the mouth of the river Loire which is a mere five hours from home rather than the five days of last year. Once more, we have recruited the generosity of friends, this time, Deborah and Brendan, to transport us, bikes and trailers to St. Nazaire. The 13^th May should see us at the beginning of the 4000 km pedal to the Black Sea. I am looking forward to telling you of our pursuit of the EV6 and of enjoying your company on the way.

ONE MONTH TO GO

We seem a little more relaxed about this one. Maybe too laid back!

Preparations are going well. For the first time we have maps and guides for the whole route. No more spending hours in tourist offices and bookshops looking for decent scale maps. No more following the sun in the vague hope that any road south will lead to journey’s end. No more arguments on which road to take and whose fault it is that we are lost. (fat chance!)  However with all these guides comes a plethora of information on places that must be visited and historical artefacts that just have to be seen, although, if we exclude churches, chateaux, and any climb over 10% for a view, I think we’ll manage to keep to our 75 to 100kms a day target. Just in case, I’ll do a Google search for bicycle blinkers and continue my lifetime obsession with culture avoidance.  

The net is providing a wealth of information on this route. Looks like it’s quite a popular ride. Accommodation does not seem to be a problem until we get to Romania but we’re still discussing the option of leaving the Danube and venturing into the Carpathian Mountains so it could be back to basics and seeing what’s available when we start to get tired at the end of the day. Getting back home might also be a problem but worst case scenario is another two months of cycling!

We’ve only slightly modified our kit. We’re leaving behind the sub-zero clothes and I’ve bought new shorts after it became apparent that my old pair had become almost see through when stretched. (embarrassing and not pretty). We have also bought a couple of Ortlieb handlebar bags with map cases on top. There might now be a tad too much information on the handlebars with GPS, mini cycle computers maps and guides. It’s a good job we don’t have mirrors.  Various undergarments  designed to hold up and squash wobbly bits and to cushion dangly bits complete the purchases. The usual highly efficient service was received from Wiggle and Chainreaction.

The bikes were desperately in need of service so we entrusted them to our local village cycle shop, not that you would recognise it as a cycle shop. Outside is an array of ladders, seed potatoes, dog food, various agricultural implements and two fuel pumps. Inside is everything you would need to survive a nuclear attack (and probably enough bits to build a missile for a counter attack). Tucked away to one side is the bike shop stocked with the kit of your dreams. I love rural France. After a lecture on changing the chain every 4000kms and a lot of laughter, our bikes were returned and are now performing better than new.  Just the legs to get back in shape……..

Mary Starts Altitude Training

Alan's Preparing for the "Three Rivers Route"

Many thanks to Beth for the card.