Thursday 30.05.2019

Figueira da Foz - Sao Pedro de Moel

There is a big bridge which spans the river at Fig da Foz and we did need to cross said river but we were unclear as to whether this magnificent span was a motorway! (Memories of Sicily came to mind). Erring on the side of caution, we thought it better to take the long route to a second crossing. As that decision was made, Alan spotted a group of cyclist pedalling over the bridge. We found the access but the cycle track was, as you would expect, on the other side of the barrier! Having noted the speed and the size of the vehicles using the road a bit of faffing was required to locate the start of the barrier and make sure we were on the right side of it. It was quite an unnerving experience even protected by the barrier, how the group preceding us stood up to the traffic, I don't know. They were from Rome so maybe it was chicken feed for them. Safe on the far bank, and having deviated from the proscribed route, it took Master Navigator a few moments of concentration to come up with an alternative way on, which he did, needless to say.

Everything which is described as passing through lush forest is now a misnomer as the trees have been destroyed by fire and stand like black telegraph poles providing no shade whatsoever on a very long road.

Perhaps the most significant thing about today, had been the unexpectedly high temperature so lots of sweating and lots of drinking. Neither of us could face erecting a tent in the heat so very sensibly opted for a hotel with showers and air conditioning. We know how to live! We are also sharing the accommodation with a couple of guided groups who have been grasshoppering with us for much of the day.

As we gained a few kms with the bridge crossing, we are a little into tomorrow's route which might be to the good as I have made a note that we may have some serious climbing to do or maybe not. Looking forward to it all anyway.

the view from the bridge Figueira da Foz

Tonight's stop

On the way to 'Figgy Foz'

Road through Portugal - Tuesday 28thMay

Porto - Sao Jacinta

Refreshed from our night in a real bed, and a long conversation with a gentleman from Thailand, we made an enthusiastic start. The track or boardwalk really was stunning following the beach - ah, but then, with all the high winds the boards were knee deep in sand! Turn round, found a road, then steps! A very squidgy lane allowed us to avoid the steps and then began a massive detour around the salt marshes. A great place for bird watching or providing a feast for the midgies. Lunch was a very rushed affair accompanied by much flesh slapping! Eventually, we had nearly completed the circumnavigation except for the last couple of kilometres to a necessary bridge crossing, against the wind. We do commiserate with the cyclists determinedly fighting with it all day! The wind I mean.

A one and a half wait for the ferry ensued where we met up with a very gutsy American lady, so we passed the time very amiably chatting about bike routes in various parts of the world. Exit from the ferry was less than easy with the route dictating that we take a dual carriageway which, needless to say, prohibited bikes and those people riding them! Undaunted, we found an alternative and 12 kilometres later our tent was pitched, we were clean and heading for somewhere to eat. And did we find the right place. Looked like nothing, but the fish platter that arrived would have challenged the best restaurant for quality and taste. Superb! Made all the more enjoyable as we were sharing the space with a group of guys on a jolly. And very jolly they were too. A grand end to the day.

Sao Jacinta - Figueira da Foz  

Wednesday 29th May

This really was not our day! The first hour or so was fine. We breakfasted in the camp site cafe, waved to our host of the previous evening as we rode passed and found out path pdq. An hour or so later we were much less sanguine. We discovered that when the Portuguese say a road is damaged, it is actually, totally destroyed. In all our thousands of kilometres of riding some pretty dubious paths, this was 22 kms of the worst, by a country mile. Sadly, we were committed before we realised that these massive potholes and loose stones were to continue unabated. Unable to lift eyes from the road and threatening to take a fall at any time, it was exhausting and very slow. Clearly, there were alternatives cos we met a group at the end of this arduous adventure who were on a guided ride and their guide had made it clear that the route we had followed was impassable! The forestry we were in was completely destroyed by fire and so had the surface of the road. According to the GPX route we were exactly on course.

Thinking that was the worst over (well it was,but the next bit was a very close second) we headed off for the last twelve kms to our destination. Now we were confronted with a 14% hill, followed by a road blocked by huge boulders. There was just enough room to squeeze through onto the unmade road on the other side. Impossible to ride with laden bikes, we forged onward and upward (a couple of kms) 'til we came to the second pile of boulders, much like the first. Finally, on a metalled road, we hurtled downhill into Figueira. Forget camping! Found a very reasonably priced hotel and rested our quite weary bodies.

NB. This is NOT a completed Eurovelo route or even close and we suspect, has been lifted from a map and certainly not ridden. It is some years from completion so BEWARE!

26th - Monday 27th

Caminha  - Espino around 140kms

So we are finally on our way!  The van is now parked out of the way and under the trees and we have had much support from the campsite staff. We have been furnished with phone numbers in case of problems and many comments of support and good luck. So here's to the Portugal adventure.

It all began with a fabulous run along the coast with a whizzy wind of some 20kms.(the wind strength and the distance). We meandered around a very wiggly route and, without Al's magic machine and all those hours of transferring files etc, we would have had no chance of finding our route. And I thought all that time in the office was just about skiving off the washing up! Of signs along the route, there were none! And nobody mentioned that lots of the lesser roads (most of them) are cobbled! Ugh! Sudacreme to the rescue. Very relieved that we are bouncing around on bikes which will cope with the vagaries of continual bumping.

We have discovered that we are encountering lots of folk with rucksacks and shells! This time we are going in the opposite directions to all the pelicans but who still insist on wishing us a 'bon camino!' However, being on the route has proved to be very advantageous as our campsite catered primarily at this time of year for those making the pilgrimage. So we enjoyed a great evening meal and excellent facilities.

A sunny Sunday with shed loads of people making the most of the seaside and ensuring that the proms were overrun with dogs, small children, adolescents still admiring their phones and the occasional decent chap who said Hi or the Portuguese equivalent.

Good to get the first day completed with no unforseen problems!?

Monday 27th - Made it to Espino via very busy Porto.

Not a bad night under canvas if one ignores the gale force winds, pounding surf and ants wandering indicriminately over naked bodies. No harm, they just tickle and disturb slumber. Mind you, the evening meal accompanied by a bottle of delicious wine may have made a small contribution to restlessness. Always up for a challenge, Al had a meat course which contained every part of a pig except, it would seem, the muscle and all with beans! Very nice apparently! I stuck with the fish.

Nevertheless, we were up and running by nine this morning and enjoyed a good 20kms along the coast still with our whizzy wind - thank goodness. A chance encounter with the police earned us a thumbs up from the driver- another first and much appreciated. Still, all good things come to an end and in our case it was the cobbles…………….and yet more cobbles.

Master navigator has had to check constantly that we are still on course. That he was successful was proved by our reaching Porto and it's thousands of people. Pushing through the throng was frustrating and a time consuming stop/go involving much walking. And an occasional push up a ramp from a charming electrician working on a connection! And an encounter with a couple from Caernarfon.

Up the river we went (not actually in the water) til we eventually found a bridge, crossed it and then faced a nostril wind to regain the coast. All good for the soul. Mm……….

We have also, since leaving Porto in our wake, seen our first route sign! Not many followed but we live in hope.

Indoors tonight in a hostel/appartment.       

Road to Portugal 20 - 22May

Monday saw a complete change in the weather to the extent where we enjoyed a walk into the village and partook of a very tasty lunch on the terrace of a harbourside restaurant. A day complete with a finale of the sun setting over the sea.

Tuesday was a shortish drive to La Paz last visited some twenty five years ago. In twenty five years not a lot has changed except for the vast road which now runs along the coast of Northern Spain with not a donkey in sight. Venture a few metres from said road and the campsite access retains its charming narrow, winding potholey track to the base of the 1:15 hill and reception. No longer requiring a tractor to haul us to the top, the ascent was somewhat nerve wracking but the magnificent view is unchanged. The sea a deep blue with the mountains behind. A delight to find it unchanged.

Having been instructed to find a pitch, any pitch, except the one we chose!  See, I did say nothing had changed! Had better luck the second time - shelter from a still slightly chilly wind and stunning views of the sea. If we thought choosing a pitch was difficult, it was nothing compared with trying to obtain a decent shower. Lots of taps and switches but no instructions! Obviously, one turned the first tap (cold water!) then one pressed the light switch on the wall which allowed the hot water to flow. Piece of cake……….not.

Nothing compares with sitting on the beach watching the tide rise and then watching the sunset over the headland - bloody marvelous. Lots of lovely memories.

Wednesday 22nd May

A day of relaxation in the sun and taking lunch on the terrace. What a life!

Road to Portugal23 - 25 May

You might be forgiven for thinking that we are delaying our real departure and you would be correct but the journey has been worth the delay. Thursday was a full day on the road but such a stunning route. Apart from the views of coast and mountains, the feats of engineering required to incorporate numerous tunnels and viaducts is quite mind boggling. So, apart from Tom Tom making one of its cock-ups trying to locate the campsite and expecting us to negotiate farm tracks, we find ourselves at the start of our ride but we haven't started quite yet.

It was with considerable relief that on our arrival, our receptionist spoke extremely good English and we were able to explain our intentions and requirements in minutes and it seemed nothing was too much trouble. It was an unexpectedly uncomplicated arrival into a very friendly campsite. We are not entirely sure of the exact spot that we shall be leaving the van but as long as we return before September! when the site closes for the winter there should be no problem.

As the clocks are an hour behind Spain and France, we were in bed by 21.30 very relieved to feel that all would be well with the world.

Friday 24th May

We met with the 'chief' today who has confirmed that we are able to leave the van, that we have his 'phone number in case of problems and that we agree to make a payment - all of which is very satisfactory.We have, therefore, finally unloaded the bikes and pedalled up the road to ensure that we, and the bikes still function. All good.

Discovering that the campsite restaurant would be opening for the first time this year, we felt obliged to attend so at 19.00 we made our way over only to find a very agitated 'chief' and a more sanguine chef. Eating, it seemed might be a problem - no gas! Technician is on his way though. We could still drink and as we cleared half the bottle of wine the technician turned up, switches a switch and hey presto the gas came through. By this time, we had been joined by Jeff and then by the 'chief'. A superb  meal of sword fish arrived - well worth the wait. A thoroughly pleasant evening enjoying interesting company, excellent food and an excellent wine.

Tomorrow, we get down to the basics - trying to find the beginning of the route, packing and loading the bikes,ready, at last, for the off.

On the way to Portugal

Sunday 19.05.2019

Last night as I meandered into sleep, I constructed the perfect sentence to begin this most recent blog which I hope will take us from Northern Portugal to its border with Spain in the South. This morning, however, the perfect sentence has misted away so I begin as usual.

It was a relief to finally drive away from home, not that we don't love home just that after several days of sourcing, choosing and packing those items we consider essential, actually hitting the road is balm to the soul.

Normally, we would have expected the weather to improve as we drove South but not today. Cloud thickened and the time we reached Bordeaux skies were a grey cloak of weeping drizzle. Drizzle turned to rain and rain to a downpour of biblical proportions. Not to be outdone, the wind had risen to storm force whipping the sea into a frenzy only marginally quieter than the French equivalent of the red arrows which flew directly overhead emitting red, white and blue smoke. What a welcome! A flypast no less.

So, we are in the place where it all began, St Jean de Luz, where we dipped our toes in the sea prior to departing our ride along the Pyrenees. Much has happened since then, not least the addition of several years to our ages and a number of long rides. (Now getting shorter and certainly slower)