Ferry to Germany

Marielyst – Niendorf (Germany)   43.1kms  nil? Ascent.

Well, if yesterday was the best, today has lagged a long way behind. We woke to the sound of rain pattering on the roof of our cabin, rapidly followed by rain thundering on the roof of our cabin. A dash to the loo confirmed that the sky was entirely overcast with much wet stuff dropping from it. With a whistle and a smile (bit of an exaggeration) we downed tea and muesli, packed our bags, cleaned our cabin, paid our dues and set off in the right direction for the ferry. Just prior to leaving the campsite, Alan had spotted what he thought might be a camera crew but, if it was, they missed the biggest story of the day! We are, after all, professionals!

It continued to rain so we thought to reduce the journey to Gedser to a minimum, which involved a head down run along the main road. Brilliant idea, except that we were one and a half hours early for the ferry, and this ferry port offered nothing in the way of comfort. I mean nothing. We shared a corrugated roof with three bikers who appeared to be genuinely interested in our journey. They had shared the Nordkapp experience and then travelled through Norway where it had rained every day! So we stopped whinging. With about 10 minutes to spare before the ferry departure time, at least a dozen cyclists suddenly appeared in our shed. They obviously knew better than to arrive early!  Boarding involved pedalling like bug****y along the deck and then trying to find a spot where the bikes could lean without falling over on the first wave. We did quite well until a biker (a really grumpy one) wanted our bikes miles away from his motorbike. Remaining very cool, Alan offered to help him secure his vehicle at which point he didn’t know how to react. Some twenty minutes of fiddling around ensured the bikes and trailers were sensibly secured and we went in search of food. In many ferries of our experience, there is usually a restaurant, which is only marginally more expensive than the food hall, and where eating can take place in relative calm. We found it and enjoyed salmon and as much salad as you could eat, which in our case probably wasn’t enough and we longed for the appetites of a few people we know who shall remain nameless but who assuredly know who they are.

Disembarkation was frantic and fraught, dicing with juggernautes as to who had the right of way. For a second time, we were fortunate to be able to follow those who had done all this before and we shot off at great speed and also in the right direction. For us this had to be the middle of town and a tourist office. So well prepared were we, that we lacked any information on the route or of places to stay on the way or even of Germany in general.  So 14  Euros poorer, we had all the information we needed, the sun had replaced the rain and we were off and running again. Despite all this expensive information, the campsite we had marked down as our destination for this night, didn’t exist but we found, instead, a guest house and here we are lodged with full bellies and a long day to look forward to tomorrow.

The Best of Days

Praesto  - Marielyst       74.8 kms   496’

Today has been the very best of days. The weather has been without flaw and the route of the cycle way has been an inspiration on the part of the designers, who have come in for a lot of criticism on this blog. On this section, they got it right. We hardly noticed the effort involved in pedalling as the views were all encompassing. We spent much of the time riding through forest with a sparkling blue sea and sandy beaches immediately on our left. It has been a day which needs no comment so include some photographs and hope that they will be sufficient for our readers to share our pleasure.

They just love their bikes

Koge – Paesto      78.3 kms     315’ ascent

For our avid readers, you will have noticed that the last couple to days have been almost without ascent and, in addition, we have enjoyed almost unbroken sunshine; the price exacted has been the nostril wind. Today, as a result of the meandering nature of the cycle route, it has sometimes been off the port bow so only a relatively minor hindrance. Today, it all began so well and so it continued! Shortly after leaving the campsite along the designated cycle path, we came upon a group of ladies with very large panniers on the front of their bikes containing small children! (Photo included) This was an outing from the local kindergarten and we marvelled at the freedom from political correctness that these teachers enjoyed. The children were entranced with their surroundings including this bizarre lady who asked them smile. So refreshing.

 We commenced the main part of our ride along the sea shore, passing along millionaires’ row which went on for tens of kilometres!  It was a truly astounding example of the fact that wealth and good taste do not always coincide. It was an eclectic mix of design from the original (Just one) to lego lookalikes. All with sea views and private beaches and jetties.

Despite our route meandering through the countryside, it was a thoroughly enjoyable experience. We were only two of many cyclists enjoying the sunshine – everything from the serious road cyclist to the youngest on the back of mum’s bike and the oldest just enjoying still being able to push the pedals (Yes, I know but there are others older than us).

According to the designers of the route 9, it was going to be only 63 kms to Paesto! (Anyway 75 kms later we found ourselves in this very neat little town with a campsite that was full. A very helpful tourist office located a B&B which wasn’t full and so off we set. Well, we have seen a lot of ‘half open’ ‘half shut’ and ‘will be ready next week’, but this was something else. It will/could be absolutely fabulous. An old mansion with outbuildings and barns and some magnificent original features. But in need of massive investment.

Tomorrow we head for the last of our overnights in Denmark. Germany awaits. 

"Wonderful, Wonderful Kopenhagen

Niva – Koge   80.7kms       331’ ascent

Everything began so well. We left the site in good time, still smarting from the fact that it had cost us the equivalent of £1.30 to take two showers! However, we had got over that and at least we smelled fresh and new as we enjoyed the sunshine and a beautiful ride along the sea shore. I have to say there is a smell which accompanies this close proximity to the sea which Alan assures me is just a sea smell. Mmm, to me it is a mixture of rotting seaweed and raw sewage! All went very well until we reached the outer reaches of Copenhagen. In common with many other European countries, Denmark is undertaking copious road repairs, the significance of which will become obvious as this blog continues. At this point in today’s journey Mr. Grumpy emerged briefly from hibernation to exhort blistering comments on the designers of the cycle routes. ‘Why must we climb the steepest hills of the entire journey?’ he complained. They were in fact so steep that with Herman the Sherman of the back we were obliged to get off and walk! ‘If they are going to dig up the road, why do they not replace the cycle track signs so that we don’t end up in the middle of a huge social housing estate?’ he moaned. (The inhabitants of which were very helpful in relocating us). The final straw took the form of a vital bridge which was fenced off and definitely NO GO. Mr. Grumpy was having none of it. He separated bike from trailer, pulled violently at the wire netting, and succeeded in crossing said bridge (with a little assistance) with both bike and trailer. On re-assembling the two, a nice dog walking lady suggested that a simpler solution might be to ride the second bike (mine) along the river for some 500 metres to another bridge. I nodded my thanks and set off and promptly sank several inches into the muddiest track of the journey, but it did, eventually, deliver me safely to the other side. Mr. Philosophical sent Mr. Grumpy back into hibernation as we continued to get lost, find ourselves again,  and eventually exit Copenhagen having seen nothing at all of the centre. With some relief, we enjoyed a rather late lunch by a lake ,observing the antics of various sea birds all trying to establish their superiority. (Too much testosterone!)

By now, thoroughly fed up with the thought of another 20 kilometre detour, we finally rejoined a main road with a cycle path and went head down for the campsite at Koge. We were sharing a track with the serious bikers of the area, who gave no quarter, indication of their presence, or acknowledgement of us as they shot passed. I assume this is normal for Denmark, but I much prefer the cheery hellos of the competent bikers in the Pyrenees who overtook us at some speed as we puffed our way up to the cols.

Our destination was finally reached and we enjoyed yet another bottle of wine with our supper. (No, this will not become a habit.) Hmmm?

 Note from Alan

Now those of you who know me, will be aware that I am a placid kind of bloke, rarely given to outbursts of self-opinionated twaddle . So today was no exception. I was evil. I had back ache and the beginnings of a boil in my crutch when the national cycle route 9 (this part designed by a lardy, fat arsed, cycle hater) took us away from a beautiful coast into a swamp ridden forest with little hills in excess of 12%, midgies (just done 2000kms of them) AND nettles overgrowing the track. I now have a nettle midgie sandwich of stings and bites up my shins. Not happy with that, Mr Lardy has not checked his sign posts in the last couple of years. Sprayed over in graffiti, scratched out, pulled out of the ground and thrown to one side or simply nicked leaving an empty holder, all added to the enticing image of Copenhagen suburbs. More glass on the track in one day than we’ve seen in the last 30. There were some good bits. I was almost enjoying the trip along the ramparts till they shut the bridge!

We're Not Alcoholics - Really

Hellingsborg (Sweden) – Niva (Denmark)  49.5 kms + the bit on the ferry.   248’ ascent.

Having now spent over thirty five days of cycling, we have established something of a ritual in the mornings which begin with the alarm sounding at seven o’clock. Our actions are now pretty well honed to maximum efficiency without being obsessive. So, when Alan began to load his trailer at about 8.30 all was going to plan. He stood observing his trailer with a perplexed expression: ‘What is missing?’ says he as his load appears somewhat deficient. ‘It might just be that huge blue bag standing against the cabin,’ say I, and collapse into hysterical laughter. Last laugh was still with ‘himself’. To ensure we leave nothing behind, Alan undertakes a ‘final inspection’. Thus far he has found n

othing, not even knickers under the bed. Today he could crow – I had left the drinks bottles in the ‘fridge. So, I guess  the score to be one all.

Our ride to the ferry was a real pleasure as the cycle track, which we managed to locate, closely followed the coast, so for the most part we had the sea on our right and not much in between. We reached Hellingsborg in good time and even found the port. Locating the access was something of a challenge as the Swedes had hidden all the signs. Doggedly determined as ever, we found a man, who somewhat disparagingly, told us to enter with the cars. For a very reasonable sum we bought our tickets and took to lane 13. Fortunately for us, we were preceded by two local cyclists who were familiar with the system – head down and go for it up the gang plank! We beat the lorries by a heart- beat and our fellows suggested that we stayed with the bikes for the 10 minute duration of the crossing. Actually, there was time for each of us to visit the loo, but little more. To exit the ferry was a repeat performance of the entrance, so heads down again. Totally disorientated by this time, we found ourselves in Helsingor admiring Hamlet’s castle. A visit to the information centre seemed a sensible option and so it was. Armed with very heavy ‘information’ we then decided a currency change and a bit more cash might be prudent. Back to the info centre who, ever helpful, directed me to the nearest bank. (We now know why the ferry route is so busy. The streets in Helsingor are not lined with gold but the next best thing – the shops selling liquor overflow onto the streets!)

In less than half an hour after our arrival in Denmark we were off, following the correct cycle route and stopping on the beach for a well- deserved break for coffee and rolls.

Having booked a cabin at the most convenient site, we enjoyed another leisurely ride along the coast through delightful, and no doub,t very expensive villages. Not a long ride today, but even so we barely noticed the distance as there was so much to look at. Our site is very comfortable and we have just finished our evening meal without the company of midgies but with the accompaniment of a bottle of reasonably priced white wine. Cheers!  

   

Alan's Really Boring Bits

To those planning a similar trip - notes on our route down the middle of Sweden:-

This alternative to the EV7 suited us. We prefer country to town and there was just enough of interest to satisfy our cultural needs. However 1500+kms of lakes and trees might not be your cup of tea! The route also provided us with the opportunity to “pile on the miles”.

We entered Sweden in early June and the tourist trade was just waking up. It was not unusual to find campsites “half open” with no one at reception (Just the phone number on the door) and facilities still being repaired from last year.  Having said that, we found cabins available at almost all the sites. (camping.se provides a very useful brochure)

The Roads - A country of two halves

Road surface was generally good with occasional road works where the entire top surface would be removed. In the North, the minor roads, outside towns, are generally dirt tracks in various states of repair.

Traffic levels were low increasing near larger towns and generally increasing the further south we travelled

Generally  drivers are very respectful of cyclists to the point of stopping in anticipation that you might want to cross the road from one cycle track to another.  However there is always the occasional idiot and tourists might not be aware of the rules! It was also noticeable that many drivers, including those of large lorries with trailers, were using their mobiles)

Towns and villages were generally very cycle friendly with cycle routes everywhere and you are expected to ride on the wide pavements where they are provided. However you do need a cycle route map to know where they are going!! Cycle routes were excellent but occasionally much longer than the road alternative.

Route signs occasionally run out when you need them most.

Not many options to explore alternative routes in the north but increasing further south

Main Roads in the south are much less cycle friendly

Route 26 directly south of Mariestad the most dangerous road I’ve cycled on. 2 standard lanes divided by wire crash barrier and crash barriers on the nearside of both lanes. Heavy duty rumble strips just inside the crash barriers on both sides. Maybe 40cms of tarmac between the nearside crash barrier and rumble strip. Speed limit 100 kmh but traffic travels (much) faster. For the very short time we were on this road (big mistake), lorries could only give us ½ metre clearance and that was with our trailers very close to the edge of the tarmac and the bikes on the rumble strip. Very few vehicles slowed down.

We came across several short sections of road with similar “improvements” to this section of the 26. A major part of the E4 in the north is of this type. 

Next Country Please

Halmstad -  Molle      82.2 kms     839’ ascent

We are nearing the end of our journey through Sweden and we have clocked up a total in excess of 2500kms and I have no idea how much height gained (or weight lost!). At twenty something one is described as slender, at forty something the description would be slim at 60 something the word to use is scrawny. No matter, we can eat what we like and we could drink what we like if only we could source the alcohol. Maybe Denmark has a more liberal attitude to the selling of wine and Scotch.

We started our journey in an area so under- populated we could ride all day and spot an occasional passing motorist. We leave a very different Sweden. Not heavily populated by UK standards, but nonetheless, distances between urban areas has decreased significantly and the traffic is incessant. Campsite facilities are now out to make a fast buck and lack the fastidious care of those further north. It feels as though there is a real north/south divide.  In fact, I am quite surprised that this end of the country hasn’t sunk with all the extra habitation. Must be the weight of all those trees that keep it so perfectly balanced! We now understand why so many little cabins have sprouted among the trees and around the lakes. It’s the ‘get away from it all’ syndrome. Mind you, a penchant for fishing is an essential requirement for owning such a dwelling for there seems little else to do except swat armies of midgies. The Swedish and the Sami people in general (except for the tw** who peeped Alan) have been friendly and endlessly helpful, if not actually exuberant.

Today has not been without interest. We had, as ever, carefully planned a route which would keep us clear of the motorway but, as usual in the towns, signposting for minor roads and minor villages, is intermittent at best and non-existent at worst. We picked a non-existent one and spent a few tense minutes discussing our predicament! Locals to the rescue again; their advice – just carry on and they were right. Having located the right road and partaken of coffee and bananas we surveyed what was to come. Sweden had one more sting in its tail! The hill ahead looked like the head of a cobra and was just as unpleasant; two and a half kilometres of 8%! The strong Northerly wind, which had been forecast, and would have assisted our ascent, was nowhere to be found until we reached the summit! By now very hot and sweaty (NOT glowing – don’t know who dreamed that up that one) we were hoping for some relief on the downhill. Thwarted again, for the clouds disappeared unexpectedly and the sun shone with a vengeance and we were now inappropriately dressed for hot. Undaunted, but a bit pink, we reached our final site in Sweden where we plan to take a day to repair more holes in the trailer covers and render a little TLC to the bikes – (Alan does most of that clever stuff). Then the final few kilometres to Helingsborg and on to discover what Denmark has in store for us. Watch this space.    

Back to Civilisation

Smalandsstenar – Halmstad    87.4kms    425’ ascent

Yet another 70 something which turned into an 80something! For two reasonably good map readers, our calculations of distance lack a certain degree of accuracy. This morning we were up with the sun except there was no sun; the promised clouds had covered the sky. No matter, it was much cooler, cold actually, so out came the long johns.

Suitably attired we left the site and just 500 metres down the road, we found a bike shop – just when you need one. And so we replaced the brake cable used yesterday just in case we have another such rupture. What luck. As we left the town/village we entered the Sweden that we have come to know and love – ups, downs, and trees! The latter now, though, includes trees other than birch, spruce and fir, like oak and beech. Now, we have been in Sweden for over a month and, despite our best efforts of observation, we have seen no moose. Today, that changed as one appeared from the woodland and stared for a moment at these weird folk before lurching off into the trees. It did not sport any antlers so was probably a female, but DEFINITELY a moose. We were very excited and wobbled dangerously in our tiddly bit of road space.

Sweden boasts an extraordinary number of bike routes which have one major drawback – they lack any clear signposting. In fact, in many cases, signposting just stops. Now in a car, this is inconvenient; on a bike it can be measured in energy output to the point of exhaustion! When they work, they are excellent and reduce the risk of death by juggernaut to nought. Today, they worked moderately well with the aid of the GPS. One such led us through Halmstad where we suddenly emerged from trees into a very modern, large, bustling city. Bit of a shock, really. We stopped for a while to inspect a promotion of sea kayaks (maybe next year?) and got caught up (well I did) in watching a game of canoe polo being played on the river. Alan finished his negotiations with the canoe rep (not sure how many boats he bought) and dropped a minor bombshell, that with 72 kms cycled we still had at least another 10 to go. Onward once more.

Braking Too Hard

Ulricehamn – Smalandsstenar      78.4kms    240’ ascent

This morning the outside temperatures were well into the 20’s before eight o’clock and by the time we had loaded the trailers and hauled them up the steep steps, we were already not nice to know. Our railway line of the previous day did not disappoint and we sailed alongside the lake under the shade of the trees for several kilometres. We even went through a little tunnel! And like yesterday, at about 20 kilometres we discovered another jewel at a small village named Manstad. A large, well-manicured area of grass (lawn really), picnic tables, a water feature and a small enclosed hut had been made available for use by any passing traveller. Most astounding of all were the facilities for toilets and showers. They looked like they had been lifted from a top notch hotel. We were so overcome that we forget to take any photos!  After 30 kilometres and ONE FOOT of climbing we reached the end of the easy ride. It had been very tranquil but now we needed our adrenaline rush. And guess what – we got it! (For a short while anyway. ) We found ourselves, unavoidably, on one of those roads with the wire barriers, but fortunately, the weight of traffic was not great and, in general, seemed a lot more sympathetic to cyclists than had been our previous experience. Even better, from my point of view, there was no nostril wind, or at least none to speak of, so I was up at least two gear cogs. However, in my enthusiasm for my excessive speed, I yanked on my brakes as we arrived at our campsite and bust the cable. My man has now replaced it with a new one! He is a marvel!  Tomorrow is forecast to be a little cooler but, I suspect, also with a wind blowing up the nostrils. Can’t have everything.

Follow that Train

Falkoping – Ulricehamn     56kms    126’ ascent

Having climbed ‘The Hill’ we had the pleasure of the descent this morning. A whoopee experience, if somewhat nerve racking with the following traffic trying to decide whether to overtake these flying  bikes or tamely follow behind. We gave no quarter!  At the bottom we faced something of a dilemma. In his extensive research, Alan had read an entry referring to this part of the route which stated that there existed an old railway line which would take us all the way to Ulricehamn.  The only problem was how to locate it as none of the maps we had showed the slightest inkling of such. Being extraordinarily intelligent, we decided that the best option was to follow the existing railway line (not literally). As luck would have it, we both spotted the tiny red sign simultaneously. What luck! As those of you who read this blog regularly will know, I have a theory that railway constructors built rail tracks to climb hardly at all. And guess what, I was right.

It was another gloriously sunny day and an opportunity to take in the quite significant changes to the countryside that have taken place as we have come further south. Without the interference of road traffic, we were able to note the emphasis now on agriculture and stock rearing (not that we were actually without trees). The natural flora had attracted a vast number of butterflies, which insisted on committing suicide in the spokes of my front wheel, probably in the back as well.  After some twenty kilometres, and at about coffee time, we came upon a hut at a place called Hog. This old railway hut had been lovingly restored, was open and made available information about the local area and the horrendous crash which had occurred between a train and a milk tanker in the 1980’s. We made use of the picnic table which had been build nearby and thereby met the man involved in the restoration. He was justly proud of his efforts and keen for us to make an entry in his little visitors’ book which I had overlooked.

To reduce the boredom (I know, some people are never satisfied) the local farmers had constructed  cattle grids disguised as areas of verdant greenery. Fortunately, this sudden change from grey to green had alerted Alan to a possible anomaly and thus he stopped before his front wheel disappeared down a great hole.  By now my trusty nostril wind had got going with a vengeance  and it was with some relief that we found ourselves in Ulricehamn. We stopped to check our whereabouts and met another of those nice old ladies who suggested that if we continued for just a further 100metres or so we would find a seat, shade and a wonderful view. She was right on all counts. By now, very hot, we pressed on to our site for the night and discovered that the railway line continued for a further 30 + kilometres! (A great start for the day tomorrow)

Our accommodation this night was a very well appointed apartment in every aspect except one – It was at the bottom of a flight of very steep steps but it did have a balcony!  The exercise did us good!