Shut but Open

Sunday 20.05.2012  Sully sur Loire – Belleville sur Loire   61kms

Where the Rhone - Seine Canal crosses the Loire

Bit of a late start this morning as Alan needed the rest. So it was about 10.30 when we bade farewell to Mr. PGL and the second campsite with no toilet paper. Nostril wind was with us again; we are getting quite pally now! The day has passed with no notable occurrences but a pleasant ride along the river. The rain has stayed off for the most part but is forecast for tonight. An hotel seems a really good option and the one we found looked great except that it was shut! A few metres further along the route we found a tourist office open on a Sunday. I asked for a hotel with food for we were bereft of rations, and she recommended the one that was shut. But when she rang it was open!  So here we are –warm, dry and clean while it pisses down outside. We have accessed the internet and we would like to thank – no really – all those of you who have sent messages and emails. It is a great encouragement especially when things are a bit tough. So pat yourselves on the back and we will look forward to our next encounter. I have to stop now as himself must post this and add the pics which, I am told take ages! Looking forward to a really comfortable night and no breakfast to prepare in the morning.

Off Skirts and Off Bike

Saturday 19.05.2012.  Beaugency – Sully sur Loire   80kms

Although today the weather is pretty rubbish, we have had one quite nice day when I thought wearing my new shorts/skirt would draw a pretty picture. Alan had warned me that I would last no more than 10kms before it would become an encumbrance. 10 kms, huh, about 10 metres! An oncoming lorry was too big to share the road with two laden bikes, so a dismount was required. Hmmm. Skirt caught on the saddle, couldn’t dismount, leaned heavily to one side and with an undignified flourish I just managed to avoid an ignominious fall. Skirt off and Alan right, as usual! Just a little aside ‘cos today was back with nostril wind and not a lot of time for mirth. Not quite as destructive as last blow. My thanks to Deborah for her suggestions of a nose clip. However, all the bike shops I have visited with this request have been unable to oblige. I will keep trying.

The advantage of riding through alluvial forest in a nostril wind is that it does provide for a modicum of shelter. Today, however, the route designers have decreed we shall ride through alluvial plain which provides no shelter at all! Hey ho. Nonetheless, all was going well until the campsite we had in mind for an overnight stop was SHUT and a further 10 kms was required. At this point, Alan, concerned for my welfare, turned in his saddle and shouted, “ Are you okay for another ten k.” Before the ‘of course’ had left my lips, his trailer wheel caught a huge, and completely hidden tree stump and Mr. Concerned up-turned and fell, along with trailer and bike, in a crumpled heap in the dirt. There was a moment of panic while I tried to work out an evacuation plan, but in true manly spirit, he was up, hurting, but with trailer in better shape than he was, we carried on! His determination was to be admired, as were the efforts of my nephew Tom, who was competing this day in the Iron Man contest in Lanzarote.  We did find a four star camp site with only half a star open but in a lovely spot next to the river. As we pitched camp we received word that Tom had succeeded in completing the course in a very respectable time and we send our heartfelt congratulations.

 As long as Al kept his right arm low he could manage the pain in his arm but not the pain who arrived on his bike just before dark! A man from Leeds who at one time had worked for …………….PGL! After three large cans of ale, said man left for a bar in the nearest town and us oldies wriggled into sleeping bags. Well I wriggled, Alan sort of lurched. At 23.00 the fireworks in the local village sparked into life and at 23.30 sleep finally overwhelmed both of us. I just hope he can move in the morning! Another imponderable.

Extraordinary Long Things

Friday 18.05.2012 Chaumont sur Loire – Beaugency 55kms


I had been woken a couple of times during the night by what sounded like an approaching dragon but was, in fact, only the wind. Always the wind; did I mention the wind?! However, as I poked a head out of the tent in the light of morning, it was with palpable relief that the wind, happily for us, was a whizzy. Over breakfast we watched, with some amusement, the antics of our motor home neighbours as they attired themselves for their day’s biking; never seen such a variety of shapes and sizes, and that was just the bikes!

By nine thirty, we bade farewell to the cheapest site yet, although we would happily have paid an extra couple of Euros for the provision of toilet paper!

With the wind up our bums, it was possible to expend the extra energy on reminiscing about some of the beauty of the area. There is much to be admired, although the picture included is a mystery: answers on a postcard please. That aside, the track along the river has been heavily forested and often the river is just a glimpse and at other times our tyres have been inches from the water. The chateaux have been both numerous and quite magnificent and many stretches have been similar to the Dordogne with the houses built into the rock face with Troglodite villages higher up. Sharing our track have been the inevitable fishermen with their extraordinarily long rods! (Still not seen a fish on the end of one.) We have also had to share some of our space with vehicles of the motor variety and have discovered that the code of conduct for French drivers is nothing if inconsistent. In Britain you expect to be run down, in Italy the drivers will run down the oncoming car, in Denmark everyone stops for the bike – but here, sometimes they are most courteous and sometimes they will run you down!

Our journey finished early today as we found ourselves in a very pretty town with many historical references and so we thought to take a short break and find us some lodgings (with toilet paper). With the aid of the tourist information (which was open!) we found ourselves in what can only be described as an adequate hotel up in the loft. Food was excellent and we passed some time with a delightful, oldish French gentleman who was cycling to see his son. Back to the attic for a night’s kip and see what tomorrow brings.

3 Grumpys!!

Thursday  17. 05.2012        Villandry – Chaumont sur Loire  69kms

Our start was a little tardy as we meandered through breakfast and then had to (no, Alan had to) sort out the posting of the blog. This required a good deal of wandering around the hotel in order to procure an adequate internet signal. (It’s a wonder he doesn’t get challenged for loitering). Finally all was done and we were ready to retrieve the bikes. Walked out of the door and not only was it raining but v. v. cold. I/we had dithered about including buffaloes in our luggage and erred on the side of caution. I wore mine all day! I also moaned all day!

This was truly a Mrs. Grumpy day. Nostril wind was of tree damaging proportions and despite my very best efforts the only word that sprang to mind was the sort of expletive I cannot use in a family blog but it begins with ‘f’. Branches were falling from the trees and the path was covered in twigs which caused the trailers to bounce and make pedalling even more difficult. (You can see the frame of mind I was in!) In view of my anguish Mr. Navigater avoided the route that would have gone over the hill and far away so that we might admire a few more chateaux, and kept to the much, much flatter roads along the river. There were points of interest like the caves along the roadside built into the cliffs for storing and selling the local wines. I acknowledge that for much of the time I was not a cheery cycle companion. My thanks to Al for being so patient. Anyway, a final push up cobbles (I have forgotten to mention those but they are, it seems, very popular in this area as a charming addition to authenticity? Mmm………) and we were within sight of our campsite.

For the princely sum of eight Euros, we found a relatively sheltered and isolated spot and got the tent up. (Getting good at this now). I whizzed back the few hundred metres into the village to acquire a much needed bottle of wine. It only took me a few minutes, but on my return, our little green tent had been encircled by about a dozen motorhomes! To add insult to injury, the gang met under the awning of the motorhome immediately behind us – noise, they could do noise. Mostly laughing and good humoured noise, it is true, but we had hoped for a little more tranquillity. To their credit, they knocked off about eight and not long afterwards, we slid into sleeping bags.

magpies and elephants

Wednesday 16.05.2012   Saumur – Villandry  63kms

Still very nippy this morning and, having shared our breakfast with the magpies, I made a smart move to the heated toilet block to dress for our ride. I have to say Alan wasn’t far behind, but it was impossible to leave the pitch for fear of an air attack!

Now here's an idea for the next trip

I had not expected to start eating my elephant quite so soon on this trip, but today I began to nibble. (For those of you new to the blog, my mantra when things require a humungus effort on my part, is to recall how to eat an elephant – one mouthful at a time!) Now this usually happens when I am confronted by a huge hill but on this occasion, I felt as though I was riding through treacle. And it is only the first week! Shortly after lunch my eyes strayed to my back tyre and it was with a mixture of relief and frustration that I realised there was a lot less air in it than there should have been. A puncture? Thankfully not; a bit of pumping by Mr. Technician and all was well. What a relief to know that it was not my increasing age or a decreasing of general fitness, I was, in effect, riding through treacle.

We did pass through a memorable town although for what it was memorable I cannot recall except that its name was Candes, it was old and we shall return there in the future, probably by car.

Thankfully my tyre incident had been sorted before our route took us on a devious route above the river in order that we might be impressed by the vineyards. Not entirely successful, as we have already seen quite a lot of vineyards and it was cold and windy. Forewarned now, Mr. Navigator was not fooled a second time and we avoided the next foray into wine growing country and stuck with the river, surprisingly the Vienne for a short time.

We had already decided on an inside evening in view of the pending rain (which never really materialised) and a night in a proper bed after a proper meal. This one was a Logis run by Mr. Everlastingly Cheerful. After the proper and delicious meal, washed down with an equally delicious bottle of wine, we were both too tired or too pi…………..d or both, to finish and post the blog. Always tomorrow!

There's two grumpys

Tuesday 15.05.2012  Montjean sur Loire – Saumur.        89kms

We have improved on our decamping abilities. Mind you, having breakfast prepared for us probably contributed to our level of efficiency. By 09.30 we were on our bikes and pedalling uphill out from the site. Ah, but the wind……………. Nostril had metamorphosed into whizzy. Hoorah! 

The weather forecast had forecast (as it does) that today would start fine but that showers might be expected around lunchtime and then there would be a return to fine weather. How right can they be? At precisely 12.10 it rained! By 14.30 the sun reappeared. Ten out of ten! Didn’t prevent us from getting wet but at least it wasn’t a surprise. At about this time we had our first encounter with a Mr. Grumpy we had not met before. A jolly “Bonjour” met with sullen silence and a glower. Several kilometres further along Mr. Grumpy passed us in the opposite direction. This bizarre coming and going continued for several hours and his demeanour changed not one wit. So, it’s true there is more than one grumpy old man in the world!

Our whizzy wind continued to increase in strength so we thought to profit from all this free air and  just keep on going. Saumur promised a campsite with all the bells and whistles so on we went. As ever, on reaching a large town all signs disappeared. All we wanted was sight of a particularly large river. Not much to ask you might think. Mmm… Decathlon, Super U, Lidl but no sign of a river. “Ask that nice man, Mary.” Nice man pointed us in the opposite direction and in less than half an hour, we found our five star site! Needless to say, only about two stars were actually operating! Nonetheless, we had a sheltered spot for the tent and with the temperature plummeting, we pitched camp and dived into the depths of our bags for all our thermal togs.

As the cycle tracks had very successfully circumnavigated all the towns and villages we were somewhat bereft of nourishment. After a hurried trip back into the main street to purchase minimal supplies, I returned to find that the magpies had made free with what little we had! They finally met their match in Mr. Bird-scarer! 

And we thought we were mad

Monday  14.05.2012   Thouare sur Loire – Montjean sur Loire  63kms.

 On our way back from morning ablutions, we encountered our neighbours who were journeying through France a velo. If we thought we were intrepid, these folk were planning to be on the road for two years! Not only in summer either! Felicitations to them both, and maybe they will find themselves in the Haute Vienne some time.

Before our departure, we sought to say farewell to the welcoming lady of the previous evening and compliment her on the magnificent gardens. Her parting handshake near crushed my fingers. Must be the gardening.

I had already made a note of the wind direction (begins with an n) and for a good part of today there was a reminder of Sweden although here the trees were interspersed with cows of varying types. The wind continued to increase in strength, so when a sign appeared insisting that bikes be pushed across a fairly long bridge, we were happy to oblige. Even so, there remained little room for two way vehicles which whizzed by with barely a hairsbreadth of space twixt them and us. At the end we were presented with the first almost impossible demountable kerb!

After 60 odd kilometres of fighting with old nostril wind the campsite was a blessed relief. Our pitch ignored the roaring of said wind and provided calm and warmth, thanks to copious and stragtegically placed hedges. Our hosts had been very welcoming and at small cost we indulged in a supper of sorts ( croque monsieur and chips) washed down with and exceptional little local wine. We even partook of an excellent breakfast. 

We Had It All

Sunday  13.05.2012. St. Nazaire – Thouare sur Loire    65kms

The start was not quite as quick as we had intended. After checking, re-checking and re-re-checking, the clock was on its way to ten o’clock. Finally, with trailers attached, a farewell to Deborah, Brendan and Virginie, our hostess we clipped in and slowly drew away from the hostel. Except for this black Mondeo which kept overtaking us and photographing our efforts, all seemed fine. The Mondeo eventually gave up and went off with its occupants to holiday for another day! Look forward to seeing the pics when we get home.

We whistled along into my favourite wind and were overwhelmed at the plethora of signs and the well maintained route. (Further less favourable comments will follow.) Within not many minutes of our start, Alan’s shout of ‘dog’ put us on red alert. And then the most extraordinary thing happened – the dog put its tail between its legs and ran for its life in the opposite direction. A first! We have never managed to scare a dog before but look forward to doing it again – if only we knew what it was we did!  Now as well as dogs, we are used to tractors but not when they leap out of a junction with those humungus prongs preceding the vehicle. Just missed! Try harder next time!

After a free ferry crossing, we began to approach Nantes. Our plan to clear the city on a Sunday and thus avoid most of the traffic was going really well even if the scenery was industrial sites and exceedingly smelly Gaz factory. What we hadn’t counted on was that much of the local population and no doubt many visitors also, had decided to take the air round the centre of town. At this point, with pedestrians, cars, bikes, scooters and pushchairs all vying for position, all the signs disappeared! (Comme d’habitude). We hadn’t expected the arrival of Mr. Master Navigator quite so soon but he swung into action even guiding us along the Boulevard de Cardiff which made us feel right at home, and Nantes finally petered out and we found ourselves once more beside the Loire and heading in the right direction.

The riverside after Nantes was delightful, boasting a host of spring flowers and absurdly a house half submerged in the river. Yes, I do have photographic proof. And then with almost perfect timing, a campsite of exceptional quality appeared and for the princely sum of 12 Euros, we pitched our tent, (after a free glass of kir), cobbled together a meal and thought ourselves most fortunate.

Ready or Not

12.05.20012 St. Brevin L’Ocean ( very pretty it is too)

Another year, another route, another adventure! 

 The last few days have witnessed a flurry of activity as would be expected. Lists have been ticked, domestic chores have been undertaken, instructions for visitors have been written, and kind neighbours have been approached to keep an eye on the house. Most important has been the offer from Deborah and Brendan to ferry us to our start point at the mouth of the river Loire. Most plans have gone without a hitch but NO hitch at all is always unlikely and, despite his numerous check lists, it was Alan who perpetrated this particular hitch by leaving behind the most vital of objects. No, not the bike but his bag, wherein lay his bank cards, car documentation and passport! Realisation dawned just about half an hour en route. Passing a bar, Brendan sniggered that Deborah had on one occasion left her handbag in said bar. This was followed by a strangled cry of “Where is my bag?”. Not anywhere in the car! An hour or so later, with bag collected from Chez Nous, we were outside the same bar. I will leave to your imagination, dear reader, the taunts that followed this small act of carelessness. Tee hee……..

After the long journey, sub-zero temperatures, fog and grinding ascents of last year (not to mention broken bones) the commencement of this new venture has shown a very different face. The journey, despite the deviation, took only some four or five hours, the temperatures are in the low twenties, the sky is almost clear blue and the route is almost flat! Thus, in these balmy conditions have we explored the starting point of our track, visited the seaside and lazed by the pool at our gite. (La Pasada – Very good and cycle friendly)  Only my old friend ‘nostril wind’ has tried to spoil the day and failed. We have enjoyed a gentle introduction to this year’s quest and we look forward to sharing this evening with our chauffeurs and quaffing the odd glass of wine.

Tomorrow, up and off and who knows what awaits. 

Mary's Back Blogging

May is here again. The same cannot be said for Spring!

As with many challenging experiences, memories re-organise themselves and the more pleasurable bubble to the surface and the least pleasant plummet to the depths. Such is human nature or mine anyway. So, my enthusiasm at the prospect of once more riding the trail almost saw us drowned before we had got underway. I quashed my enthusiasm for commencing this journey at the beginning of May, and truculently agreed with Mr. Organiser (who has once again been responsible for all the hard work and logistics), to delay take off until the middle of said month. It seems that he may have been communing with the god of weather and had been alerted to the fact that this was to be the wettest April on record! I know not how many inches of water have been deposited on the earth but it has unremittingly fallen from a miserably grey sky for over two weeks and winds, nostril or otherwise, have downed large trees. Two soggy cyclists would have been easy pickings for a series of unforgiving depressions.  My man may also have had a passing acquaintance with the god of bad teeth who decreed that I would require time consuming treatment on a large and painful molar. (a paltry inconvenience compared with the broken bones of last year.) Training has all but halted on the roads and continued in the loft courtesy of our machines of torture. The dentist has contributed with her own machine of torture. So another ten days must pass before we set off for the mouth of the Loire. Ten days, during which, I am assured, we will see a diminution in the amount of wetness and a re-acquaintance with a benevolent sun. Not easy to believe as I gaze through the window at the stair rods spattering the garden.

One of the greatest pleasures of our last undertaking, was the communication I enjoyed with all you readers (10,000 page views from over 30 countries)- so welcome all.  We commence this new venture at the mouth of the river Loire which is a mere five hours from home rather than the five days of last year. Once more, we have recruited the generosity of friends, this time, Deborah and Brendan, to transport us, bikes and trailers to St. Nazaire. The 13^th May should see us at the beginning of the 4000 km pedal to the Black Sea. I am looking forward to telling you of our pursuit of the EV6 and of enjoying your company on the way.