Thursday 30.05.2019

Figueira da Foz - Sao Pedro de Moel

There is a big bridge which spans the river at Fig da Foz and we did need to cross said river but we were unclear as to whether this magnificent span was a motorway! (Memories of Sicily came to mind). Erring on the side of caution, we thought it better to take the long route to a second crossing. As that decision was made, Alan spotted a group of cyclist pedalling over the bridge. We found the access but the cycle track was, as you would expect, on the other side of the barrier! Having noted the speed and the size of the vehicles using the road a bit of faffing was required to locate the start of the barrier and make sure we were on the right side of it. It was quite an unnerving experience even protected by the barrier, how the group preceding us stood up to the traffic, I don't know. They were from Rome so maybe it was chicken feed for them. Safe on the far bank, and having deviated from the proscribed route, it took Master Navigator a few moments of concentration to come up with an alternative way on, which he did, needless to say.

Everything which is described as passing through lush forest is now a misnomer as the trees have been destroyed by fire and stand like black telegraph poles providing no shade whatsoever on a very long road.

Perhaps the most significant thing about today, had been the unexpectedly high temperature so lots of sweating and lots of drinking. Neither of us could face erecting a tent in the heat so very sensibly opted for a hotel with showers and air conditioning. We know how to live! We are also sharing the accommodation with a couple of guided groups who have been grasshoppering with us for much of the day.

As we gained a few kms with the bridge crossing, we are a little into tomorrow's route which might be to the good as I have made a note that we may have some serious climbing to do or maybe not. Looking forward to it all anyway.

the view from the bridge Figueira da Foz

Tonight's stop

On the way to 'Figgy Foz'

Road through Portugal - Tuesday 28thMay

Porto - Sao Jacinta

Refreshed from our night in a real bed, and a long conversation with a gentleman from Thailand, we made an enthusiastic start. The track or boardwalk really was stunning following the beach - ah, but then, with all the high winds the boards were knee deep in sand! Turn round, found a road, then steps! A very squidgy lane allowed us to avoid the steps and then began a massive detour around the salt marshes. A great place for bird watching or providing a feast for the midgies. Lunch was a very rushed affair accompanied by much flesh slapping! Eventually, we had nearly completed the circumnavigation except for the last couple of kilometres to a necessary bridge crossing, against the wind. We do commiserate with the cyclists determinedly fighting with it all day! The wind I mean.

A one and a half wait for the ferry ensued where we met up with a very gutsy American lady, so we passed the time very amiably chatting about bike routes in various parts of the world. Exit from the ferry was less than easy with the route dictating that we take a dual carriageway which, needless to say, prohibited bikes and those people riding them! Undaunted, we found an alternative and 12 kilometres later our tent was pitched, we were clean and heading for somewhere to eat. And did we find the right place. Looked like nothing, but the fish platter that arrived would have challenged the best restaurant for quality and taste. Superb! Made all the more enjoyable as we were sharing the space with a group of guys on a jolly. And very jolly they were too. A grand end to the day.

Sao Jacinta - Figueira da Foz  

Wednesday 29th May

This really was not our day! The first hour or so was fine. We breakfasted in the camp site cafe, waved to our host of the previous evening as we rode passed and found out path pdq. An hour or so later we were much less sanguine. We discovered that when the Portuguese say a road is damaged, it is actually, totally destroyed. In all our thousands of kilometres of riding some pretty dubious paths, this was 22 kms of the worst, by a country mile. Sadly, we were committed before we realised that these massive potholes and loose stones were to continue unabated. Unable to lift eyes from the road and threatening to take a fall at any time, it was exhausting and very slow. Clearly, there were alternatives cos we met a group at the end of this arduous adventure who were on a guided ride and their guide had made it clear that the route we had followed was impassable! The forestry we were in was completely destroyed by fire and so had the surface of the road. According to the GPX route we were exactly on course.

Thinking that was the worst over (well it was,but the next bit was a very close second) we headed off for the last twelve kms to our destination. Now we were confronted with a 14% hill, followed by a road blocked by huge boulders. There was just enough room to squeeze through onto the unmade road on the other side. Impossible to ride with laden bikes, we forged onward and upward (a couple of kms) 'til we came to the second pile of boulders, much like the first. Finally, on a metalled road, we hurtled downhill into Figueira. Forget camping! Found a very reasonably priced hotel and rested our quite weary bodies.

NB. This is NOT a completed Eurovelo route or even close and we suspect, has been lifted from a map and certainly not ridden. It is some years from completion so BEWARE!

26th - Monday 27th

Caminha  - Espino around 140kms

So we are finally on our way!  The van is now parked out of the way and under the trees and we have had much support from the campsite staff. We have been furnished with phone numbers in case of problems and many comments of support and good luck. So here's to the Portugal adventure.

It all began with a fabulous run along the coast with a whizzy wind of some 20kms.(the wind strength and the distance). We meandered around a very wiggly route and, without Al's magic machine and all those hours of transferring files etc, we would have had no chance of finding our route. And I thought all that time in the office was just about skiving off the washing up! Of signs along the route, there were none! And nobody mentioned that lots of the lesser roads (most of them) are cobbled! Ugh! Sudacreme to the rescue. Very relieved that we are bouncing around on bikes which will cope with the vagaries of continual bumping.

We have discovered that we are encountering lots of folk with rucksacks and shells! This time we are going in the opposite directions to all the pelicans but who still insist on wishing us a 'bon camino!' However, being on the route has proved to be very advantageous as our campsite catered primarily at this time of year for those making the pilgrimage. So we enjoyed a great evening meal and excellent facilities.

A sunny Sunday with shed loads of people making the most of the seaside and ensuring that the proms were overrun with dogs, small children, adolescents still admiring their phones and the occasional decent chap who said Hi or the Portuguese equivalent.

Good to get the first day completed with no unforseen problems!?

Monday 27th - Made it to Espino via very busy Porto.

Not a bad night under canvas if one ignores the gale force winds, pounding surf and ants wandering indicriminately over naked bodies. No harm, they just tickle and disturb slumber. Mind you, the evening meal accompanied by a bottle of delicious wine may have made a small contribution to restlessness. Always up for a challenge, Al had a meat course which contained every part of a pig except, it would seem, the muscle and all with beans! Very nice apparently! I stuck with the fish.

Nevertheless, we were up and running by nine this morning and enjoyed a good 20kms along the coast still with our whizzy wind - thank goodness. A chance encounter with the police earned us a thumbs up from the driver- another first and much appreciated. Still, all good things come to an end and in our case it was the cobbles…………….and yet more cobbles.

Master navigator has had to check constantly that we are still on course. That he was successful was proved by our reaching Porto and it's thousands of people. Pushing through the throng was frustrating and a time consuming stop/go involving much walking. And an occasional push up a ramp from a charming electrician working on a connection! And an encounter with a couple from Caernarfon.

Up the river we went (not actually in the water) til we eventually found a bridge, crossed it and then faced a nostril wind to regain the coast. All good for the soul. Mm……….

We have also, since leaving Porto in our wake, seen our first route sign! Not many followed but we live in hope.

Indoors tonight in a hostel/appartment.       

Road to Portugal 20 - 22May

Monday saw a complete change in the weather to the extent where we enjoyed a walk into the village and partook of a very tasty lunch on the terrace of a harbourside restaurant. A day complete with a finale of the sun setting over the sea.

Tuesday was a shortish drive to La Paz last visited some twenty five years ago. In twenty five years not a lot has changed except for the vast road which now runs along the coast of Northern Spain with not a donkey in sight. Venture a few metres from said road and the campsite access retains its charming narrow, winding potholey track to the base of the 1:15 hill and reception. No longer requiring a tractor to haul us to the top, the ascent was somewhat nerve wracking but the magnificent view is unchanged. The sea a deep blue with the mountains behind. A delight to find it unchanged.

Having been instructed to find a pitch, any pitch, except the one we chose!  See, I did say nothing had changed! Had better luck the second time - shelter from a still slightly chilly wind and stunning views of the sea. If we thought choosing a pitch was difficult, it was nothing compared with trying to obtain a decent shower. Lots of taps and switches but no instructions! Obviously, one turned the first tap (cold water!) then one pressed the light switch on the wall which allowed the hot water to flow. Piece of cake……….not.

Nothing compares with sitting on the beach watching the tide rise and then watching the sunset over the headland - bloody marvelous. Lots of lovely memories.

Wednesday 22nd May

A day of relaxation in the sun and taking lunch on the terrace. What a life!

Road to Portugal23 - 25 May

You might be forgiven for thinking that we are delaying our real departure and you would be correct but the journey has been worth the delay. Thursday was a full day on the road but such a stunning route. Apart from the views of coast and mountains, the feats of engineering required to incorporate numerous tunnels and viaducts is quite mind boggling. So, apart from Tom Tom making one of its cock-ups trying to locate the campsite and expecting us to negotiate farm tracks, we find ourselves at the start of our ride but we haven't started quite yet.

It was with considerable relief that on our arrival, our receptionist spoke extremely good English and we were able to explain our intentions and requirements in minutes and it seemed nothing was too much trouble. It was an unexpectedly uncomplicated arrival into a very friendly campsite. We are not entirely sure of the exact spot that we shall be leaving the van but as long as we return before September! when the site closes for the winter there should be no problem.

As the clocks are an hour behind Spain and France, we were in bed by 21.30 very relieved to feel that all would be well with the world.

Friday 24th May

We met with the 'chief' today who has confirmed that we are able to leave the van, that we have his 'phone number in case of problems and that we agree to make a payment - all of which is very satisfactory.We have, therefore, finally unloaded the bikes and pedalled up the road to ensure that we, and the bikes still function. All good.

Discovering that the campsite restaurant would be opening for the first time this year, we felt obliged to attend so at 19.00 we made our way over only to find a very agitated 'chief' and a more sanguine chef. Eating, it seemed might be a problem - no gas! Technician is on his way though. We could still drink and as we cleared half the bottle of wine the technician turned up, switches a switch and hey presto the gas came through. By this time, we had been joined by Jeff and then by the 'chief'. A superb  meal of sword fish arrived - well worth the wait. A thoroughly pleasant evening enjoying interesting company, excellent food and an excellent wine.

Tomorrow, we get down to the basics - trying to find the beginning of the route, packing and loading the bikes,ready, at last, for the off.

On the way to Portugal

Sunday 19.05.2019

Last night as I meandered into sleep, I constructed the perfect sentence to begin this most recent blog which I hope will take us from Northern Portugal to its border with Spain in the South. This morning, however, the perfect sentence has misted away so I begin as usual.

It was a relief to finally drive away from home, not that we don't love home just that after several days of sourcing, choosing and packing those items we consider essential, actually hitting the road is balm to the soul.

Normally, we would have expected the weather to improve as we drove South but not today. Cloud thickened and the time we reached Bordeaux skies were a grey cloak of weeping drizzle. Drizzle turned to rain and rain to a downpour of biblical proportions. Not to be outdone, the wind had risen to storm force whipping the sea into a frenzy only marginally quieter than the French equivalent of the red arrows which flew directly overhead emitting red, white and blue smoke. What a welcome! A flypast no less.

So, we are in the place where it all began, St Jean de Luz, where we dipped our toes in the sea prior to departing our ride along the Pyrenees. Much has happened since then, not least the addition of several years to our ages and a number of long rides. (Now getting shorter and certainly slower)

Saturday 08.09.2018

Neptune's Staircase - Oban

I shall not dwell on the disappointing start to this our last day except to mention an altercation with the manageress of this 'posh’ hotel. I rarely complain but a faulty radiator in our bathroom had set up a banging which in my exhausted sleep, I had not heard for some time. When I became aware of the noise, I got up, traced the source and turned off the offending towel rail. At the same time the phone rang to let me know that other guests were being disturbed. All resolved. In view of the prestige of the Moorings Hotel, I had expected some small compensation for a very disturbed night. Not so. When I gently suggested this might be an appropriate gesture, the manageress went for me like a Rottweiler and suggested that I should have woken earlier and solved her problem. I had not expected much but I had not expected such aggression. I apologized to the young receptionist for starting her day badly and left to load my bike. Such a shame!

Still, all that needed to be put aside and get on with the job of riding. This was a truly lovely ride. Nearly all of it was off road and very varied and always accompanied by the beauty of the Highlands. We had to make it to the Camusnagual ferry for 10o’clock in Fort William. What a funny little boat - the bikes were strapped to the roof and the panniers had to be loaded separately! Despite its small size, it was full of walkers and cyclists (full was only about a dozen bodies). Weather still holding and, after reloading the bikes in the sunshine, we set off along the lockside - really lovely. The second ferry from Corran was altogether different - much bigger with cars but free for bikes! This well designed route continued to please and at 80 kms we were feeling cautiously elated - nearly there. THEN the final ten kms rose in a series of ups and downs to over 300 feet which doesn’t sound much but the day’s total was over 3000ft. To say we were tired would be to underestimate substantially our actual fatigue. BUT we had made it back to our campsite and our van. Group hugs, fizzy and pasta led to instant deep sleep.

Friday 07.09.2018

Foyers - Neptune’s Staircase

I was feeling somewhat trepidious about the climb this morning although Al had assured me that it was only 1000 feet and not metres! What was really unnecessary was the gravelly downhill followed by a steep uphill just to reach the road. It was quite a demanding climb with lots of false summits with a number of pushy bits (if we feel like crying on a steep bit that is the signal for a push). This was part of the Great Glen way and downhill into Fort Augustus was quick! Last time we were here was when we took Ynys Hwyl through the canal to Inverness and it had been heaving with folk that time as well.

The climb had taken quite a time and as accommodation was becoming increasingly difficult to find. All that was available was a further 58 kms but beggars can't be choosers. Off to go along the canal path with views of the mountains that had been obscured on our last visit. This flatness could not last and it didn’t. Off went the path up through the forestry on a track sure to loosen all your fillings. After 60 kms of pedalling we returned to the canal path and, would you believe it, a nostril wind arrived just to ensure we didn’t become too comfortable.

We did arrive before dark and the bikes were allotted their own bar! We had a super room overlooking the lock. (More expense but, by pushing on, we had reduced our ride by one day and thus another bed)

We hope to be back in Oban by tomorrow. Legs and lungs are looking forward to a rest.

Thursday  06.09.2018

Nearly Inverness - Foyers

After settling extortionate bill, we set off for the town of Inverness. You may remember how much we love big towns! Inverness was no exception to our preconception - everyone in a rush to get to their destination and no apparent concern for anyone else on the roads. (I’m sure they care about bit…..) It was our good fortune that Mr. Navigator was on the ball and unerringly led us on to the appropriate road out of he city. I’m sure Inverness is a lovely city and loved by all its citizens but we were not sorry to leave it in our same.

For some good few kms, we trekked our way along 'cycle paths’ which was heavenly as some of these we entirely bereft of traffic and others had clearly defined cycle lanes and it is remarkable how tension decreases with lack of vehicles. Sadly though, as all good things must, it came to an end and we were back on rather shabby single track with accompanied by the inevitable stop/start. The loch shone in on our right and we caught glimpses of it through the trees, then just at the perfect moment, a picnic site hove into view and the sun came out. What more could a body want? It transpires that the midgies wanted our bodies. Not to be beaten by the little blighters, we encased our heads in black netting. That had them beat! And, no doubt frightened a few holiday makers.

Blue sky lasted until we had stowed our waterproofs - then the heavens’ opened again.

I had booked a room in an inn and explained to the person on the phone that we would be arriving on push bikes: he could have forewarned me about the 1 in 10 drive of mud and gravel. Lovely when we had huffed our way to the door and the views over loch Ness were stunning in the evening light - a mix of sunshine and very black storm clouds which, in due course, released an abundance of hail stones.

Over the last bit hill tomorrow and despite Al’s assurance that 'it won’t be too bad’ it still looks like a Pen y Fan to me! Heyho.

Monday 03.09.2018

Galson - Button of Lewis -Stornaway

This is another delightful B and B with magnificent views of the sea and coastline which was entirely obliterated yesterday on our arrival. (Absolutely soaked). After such a difficult day, we passed a jovial evening in the company of our fellow guests of whom there were four at the meal table. The fifth guest, Keith, another cyclist had eaten earlier. He made up for his absence of the evening, with his very entertaining banter at breakfast.

Much of our gear was either soggy or downright wet but in total contrast to yesterday, the weather was set very fair so we wore our soggies and wrapped wets in plastic bags.

The Butt of Lewis was devoid of any sustaining cafe but magnificent ,massive rocks, a seething blue sea and a couple of seals (see photos, but not of the seals, they were too elusive).Then it was heads down for Stornoway. We stopped for a brief chat with Keith who had left after us so he was heading north as we were now heading south. We do hope to see him again. The ride was reminiscent of Trefil moors only much more extensive, surrounded as we were by peat bog and following a single road heading eastward into the distance. Quite a lot of traffic and a single cafe at the fuel station where we supped coffee and were entertained by the chef who was really a surfer.

Stornoway was something of a shock - traffic jams, school buses, traffic lights and a multitude of folk. The ferry port was easy to find - where land meets sea. So far, so good. Now for accommodation! Al did his best but everywhere was full! Just as we had resigned ourselves to a night in the tent if we could find the campsite, we acquired the last room in the most expensive hotel in town. Good job really as Al’s cough didn’t need a damp night. An added advantage was that food was served in the bar and quite by chance, Keith turned up so we shared the evening. He was braving the campsite - good man. So a fine end to the day.

Tuesday 04.09.2018

This was to be a day of rest as we had the ferry to catch in the afternoon which would not get us to Ullapool until early evening. We thought a lie in and a leisurely morning suited the mood but our hotel room was really not conducive to lolling for any hour, never mind a morning. I consider that we are not over demanding regarding accommodation working on the premise that you get what you pay for. This was a false premise in the case of the Royal: the staff were delightful and the food was good but the room was shi………...Due to an absence of heating, the bathroom and the bedroom windows were running with condensation. Everything we had hung was very damp. Had we been residents of a hostel, the facilities would have been adequate but in the poshest hotel in Ullapool, I don’t think so.

Thus we were quite early for the ferry which allowed us time to swap stories with other bikers waiting for the same ferry. At least two couples had been bussed from Tarbert as the ferries for Uig were not running and so when they reached Ullapool, they had to undertake a second bus ride to Skye. The ferry company had provided the transport but the inconvenience was something else! As a result of the cancellations from Tarbert, our ferry to Ullapool was choc a bloc. Bikes were lifted over already packed cars and were finally squidged in. The poor lady in the car parked by the bikes was completely unable to open the drivers door to make her exit.

Imagine our delight when after a five minute pedal we arrived at our fantastic B and B. It could not have been more different from the previous night. It was called bijou and unlike many others claiming the description, it had everything and more - it even had a cafetier in the bedroom with proper coffee. It had been carefully and tastefully renovated and Terry and Shirley were warm and cheerful.

We hadn’t expected Ullapool to be a hive of activity but we could not have been more wrong. What was worse was that all these people expected to be fed by too few eating establishments. Thus, the waiting time for our table was an hour and a half! Tummy touching back time! He warned, if you visit Ullapool, book a table!

Wednesday 05.09.2018

Had a fabulous breakfast and a long chat with Terry about his motives for moving from the south of England to the north of Scotland. He was clearly delighted with his choice. We were unrushed this fine morning as we intended to allow the traffic from the incoming ferry, time to be on their way. The road is single file in each direction and so two side loaded bikes have the propensity to cause a bit of a following queue of impatient drivers. The hill onto the moors was long but quiet and the plateau wild and barren: devoid even of sheep. It was relatively traffic free until we got nearer to Inverness. Not a lot of fun for a few kilometres while we searched for our turning into something less busy. Finally, it appeared and with some relief, we left the big stuff.

It had been quite a tiring day but the fatigue had crept up on us and I managed an undignified fall, having misjudged the angle of a pile of gravel at the side of the road. A bit hurty! In our minds we were looking for the Ord pub - in fact what we found was Ord House Hotel. A real gentleman’s residence with a history going back three hundred years. The host who welcomed us may have been part of that history! This was shabby chic which had over the years, forgotten the chic. Not quite what we had planned but neither of us was going to pedal back along the mile long track to search for the pub!

Sunday 02. 09. 2018

Balallan - South Galson

I know we are essentially on a bike ride but it has to be said that we have experienced some interesting situations in our overnight accommodation. Two nights ago we found ourselves sharing our best on the planet B and B with another couple called Wilkinson (from Australia) so no relation and last night our host was from Newcastle and is in the process of trying to buy a property in the Limousin. Much discussion took place and although he insisted he didn’t want to hold us up, he just came up with more and more questions some of which we could answer and some we couldn’t. However, as it was blowing a gale outside, the delaying tactics were not unwelcome.

Isle of Lewis on a Sunday

How to describe today without sounding a tad negative? On the plus side, the very strong wind was, for the most part, at our backs or at least on the port beam. As for the day’s experience in general I would have to say it was not comfortable. The Scots would call it a dreak day, I cannot in fairness to any younger readers use the words that I would have used. Rain soaked us to the skin and obscured any glorious bits. As it is Sunday, nothing is open except the churches and they don’t score highly on the coffee for sale stakes. We re-acquainted ourselves with the “ bus shelter “! We have made good use of these in a number of countries and the Scots score quite highly………..kept the wind and rain at bay and offered a basic seat. Still, a cobbled together lunch is better than no lunch.

It seems that I was somewhat presumptuous in my description of the flatter topography of Lewis. It is clearly not flat, it's not that hilly but the term undulating is to underplay the effort required to reach the top of any undulation. But we just love an adventure and we are now in a small guest house, dry and warm and with a fair weather forecast tomorrow, we shall reach the end of the islands and return to Stornoway for the ferry to Ullapool.