Friday  07. 06. 19

Setabul - Porto Covo

Up and away to the ferry which was made very easy to access by the very friendly and efficient staff. Calm crossing and then up the ramp and the first flat ride for some time. We really did bowl along through sand dunes and line forests. Stopped eventually for a coffee and met with fellow cyclists from New Zealand. They were going only a short distance to Melissa without any kind of map! You will understand the importance of this omission as the blog proceeds.

We had made a decision in view of the lack of hills, to continue to Sines. All going well with wind up our arse and a good wide duel carriageway. And then, just when we thought EV could get no more ludicrous it did! Our road turned in an instant to a motorway! Exit we must and did to nowhere. A sandy track to the beach or a half made road to goodness knows where. (I now have no faith left in our route instructions but absolute faith in Al, who somehow got us to Sines almost impossible unless using a car!

Found a great campsite some 15kms further on and, even better, a fabulous Italian restaurant whose food was outstanding.

Crashed!

107km total today .

rice fields

Wednesday. 05.06.19

Azenhas do Mar - Lisbon

Today has been a day of total contrasts - absolutely awful/delightful and everything in between. As the awful was at the beginning of the day I shall begin with that and make no apology for telling it as it was! We had spent a short burst on a mainish road and after some discussion decided to go with the EV route. It plunged down to within inches of the beach, crossed a river and thence followed our worst experience to date. Even allowing for our advancing years this was a route to test the most resolute cyclist. It began with a climb (quite used to that) on sandy but solid ground for around 50metres. Then we were on loose gravelly sand, followed by loose rock and inclines of more than 10 - 15%. Downhill was just as difficult to negotiate, throwing the wheels in all directions and with no stability and no passing traffic of any kind, an accident would have been a serious incident so we walked! No escape was possible so perseverance was required. After some 4 kilometres and when we thought things could deteriorate no further, they did. We faced a climb so severe that the only way to achieve the summit was for two of us to push one bike and then return for the other and repeat the exercise. Underfoot purchase was unreliable (sort of two steps forward and one back) and the weight unrelenting. After some 6 kilometres and about two hours later, we reached a metalled road albeit and uphill one, but a doddle after our recent ascents.

Our reward for all this effort was a magnificent downhill into Cascais and a long run along a superb bike track right on the edge of the sea. We positively sailed along in the sunshine greeting oncoming cyclists with a relieved smile. This continued until we reached Lisbon. Now, I acknowledge that we are not really city folk but one thing worse than a city, is one full of sightseers. As we left the riverside, we found ourselves engulfed the multitudinous hordes, all of whom seemed oblivious of everyone and everything outside their own group including two socking great bikes! Nonetheless, we wove our way ever upwards, in search of our hotel! It seemed to be one hop ahead of us for about two kilometres; as we got close so it hopped. An hour after departing the river, hooray and hoorah it stopped moving and we put our bikes in a lift which took us down to the parking - it took the cars too!

I am certain that the city of Lisbon is a grand one and that all those folk were having a good day but just not our bag.

So, a day of mixed emotions but a certain amount of pride in successfully achieving our destination.

From be sea - follow the yellow bits

Thursday.  06. 06. 19

Lisbon - Setubal

Following the experience of yesterday, we paid more than usual heed to the proceedings for this day. Our first move was to catch the ferry across to the other side of the river and then according to EV we were going to cover 84 kilometres of coastal hills! Now, based on experience, we were reluctant to commit ourselves to such an undertaking. In addition to the uncertainty of the safety of the route, was a pretty rubbish weather forecast. Heavy rain and strong winds were expected around 4 o'clock and no amount of grit and determination was going to allow us to meet our target of Setabul in good time. The decision was made to stick with the main drag and a shorter route which would ensure that we beat the rain to our accommodation (not the tent!)

As it turned out, this was a wise move,as less than a third of the way into the ride, the GPS gave up the ghost. Maybe in sympathy, I know not.

A generally uneventful day and just what the doctor ordered.

Sunday  02.06.19

Peniche

We took this day off from cycling as we had found a very nice and reasonably priced hotel. Took the opportunity to visit the launderette and get rid of many unpleasant smells.

Found an Intermarche and managed to acquire commodities that the little micro markets don't sell.

We enjoyed two fabulous meals in Pedro's restaurant. Am weaning Alan onto fish.

We went for a stroll around the harbour trying and failing to remember Peniche from the rally in 2002. Nothing looked the same. Still, I suppose 17 years is quite a long interval between visits. Only the old citadel walls were familiar.

A good day's relaxation.

Monday  03. 06. 19.

Peniche - Santa Cruz.

The day began with a conversation over breakfast with an American couple, the female half of which was visiting Portugal with some students to teach water colour painting using Porto as the inspiration. We avoided all mention of the Trump!

Feeling clean and fresh we powered off (bit optimistic) and within half a kilometre EV had led us to a dead end! It was our great good fortune to come across a local who, with the aid of much gesticulation, showed us how to re-route.

The weather was cooler but still bright, showing off the local flora in all its vibrant colours. In one such garden, a lady was doing her washing in a concrete sink which seem very popular in this area, particularly in the campsites. Anyway, she was pummeling away and I bid her good day and her face lit up with a beautiful smile which I returned probably less beautifully.

I had made a comment in my little book before we set off on our venture, that this ride was a bit more uppy and downy. Suffice to say I was correct and that will be the end of the matter. At the bottom of one of these hills, was a beautiful small village, Santa Nova was its name and here we lunched with views of crashing waves, a small river, fascinating and somewhat precarious rock formations, and virtually no people.

Thanks to the clever and thoughtful amendments to our route, (all Al's) we arrived at our campsite with time to spare. I use the term campsite loosely, as it was really just row on row of the wierdist caravan and tent combinations with little streets in-between. Sort of hillbilly township. Tents were clearly something of a novelty as of the only two places available for pitching, one was concrete and the other, sand. We opted for the sand and prayed that there would only be light winds. It rained a bit but no harm done.

Shortly after our arrival a guy arrived on a motor bike. He was a German biker named Sven and we shared a very enjoyable meal and an evening of conversation in English, I might add, as he spoke the language very well. We would certainly have struggled in German. Still feeling quite fresh as we turned in.

Tuesday 04. 06. 19

Even with the interruption of the rain which, needless to say, stopped as soon as I had retrieved shoes and drying knickers from outside, we enjoyed a good night's kip.

We breakfasted in town after bidding farewell to Sven. By chance we chose a cafe whose owner spoke quite perfect English which she was anxious to practice. This meant that my complicated order for breakfast and sandwiches for lunch was met with enthusiasm.

The weather was overcast and not that warm but what was to come was quite a shock. It began with a drizzle, then a bit heavier drizzle (Waterproofs on) the full storm downpour, and visibility reduced to not very much. And unusually we were on a busy main road which was soon a running river and a very scary place to be. We left the main road at the earliest sensible junction and the rain finally eased leaving us pretty soaked. Astoundingly in less than an hour, the rain ceased for good and visibility improved no end, a further hour later, the sun was shining and we were steaming.

At this point in our quite uppy/downy ride, the route directed us round and under the main road onto a sandy track leading to yet another beach. For us, another dead end - no way through- big fence - lots of don't you dare signs. So, back up the fifth or so very steep hill of the day, so steep, in fact, that a campervan was hanging precariously on the edge of a ditch on the side of the road. There was little we could do to help although we did make the gesture. Workmen, from the road above we busy trying did things as we carried on with our pushing.

We have met in passing three other laden bikers today only one of which was trying to follow the Eurovelo route and having about as much success as we were and they were doing it the correct way - south to north.

We have now finished our seven, really quite big climbs, and are back at sea level ready for a beer and a meal.

Friday 31.05.19

Sao Pedro de Moel - Praia da Vieira

While the rest of the cyclists who had shared our hotel were still eating breakfast, Al managed to extricate our bikes from among the many that were parked in the bike shed. Our overnight room had provided a balcony view of the sea and an opportunity to hang very niffy clothes outside. So today, we smell a little less. Not, however, for very long. Following a jolly ride along the front for not nearly long enough, we were headed for the hills and I do mean hill. As ever, the effort was rewarded with fabulous 360degree views and a coffee spot in the SHADE providing us with table and bench. Such a treat!

It has been another really hot day with temperatures around the thirties. This may have, in part, accounted for my lapse of concentration while cutting open a bread roll with my penknife. The outcome was a small stabbing incident which resulted in quite a lot of blood. The injury was not serious and quickly dealt with although Al insisted on trying to clean up some of the mess on the ground. [And the mess on her helmet where the raised arm technique caused a red shower - Ed. ] It had been going so well as the chosen lunch spot was high above the front of a town whose name I cannot remember. Suffice to say, it was all very pretty with fishing boats and happy children playing on the sand.

We have received much encouragement today from various sources - fellow cyclists (many of whom were getting a lift), other road users, workmen and just folk in their gardens. It really does help.

We had reduced distance travelled today by going the extra mile yesterday and very glad we were too as temperatures continued to rise and the ups getting no easier. The campsite, when we eventually found it, left much to be desired and despite advertising a bar and restaurant, neither was open. BUT, it was Friday night and Alan's night for cooking! His creation of pasta with sardines and olives was excellent. Glad to rest weary bones tonight.

Saturday. 01.06.2019

Foz do Arelho - Peniche

We breakfasted in style outside the amenities there being no other built up area to cook and as the ground was not only like concrete, as we had found out last night when trying to ram home pegs, it was also tinder dry. In this unlikely situation, we fell into conversation with a gentleman who spoke perfect English and was keen to discover what in the world we were doing. We explained. ('Why are you doing this?' is becoming an oft posed question and one to which we need to find a satisfactory answer. Any ideas much appreciated!) We did ascertain from our chat, that the weather was unseasonal. It was, apparently, supposed to be spring and not full summer. One could be forgiven for thinking otherwise. It was early morning and already very hot so even packing the tent was a very sweaty affair.

As I have the good fortune not to be deaf, my nights are punctuated with noise, in particular dogs barking. Portugal does seem to have more than its fair share of dogs, particularly yappy ones which only dare to bark at night. Add to that the local parrot in a cage, and it was quite a cacophony of sound.

We, or at least I, had hoped for some more in the way of interesting wildlife around the shores of Lagoa de Obidos which, as it's name suggests is a sea water lagoon of some size. Going around its shores was too much for Eurovelo, who thought it much more interesting/fun to conjure up a pile of hills which did had its compensations. We passed through the small and original old Portuguese villages we have seen little of thus far, and it was a change to see small farming groups, small whitewashed houses and not a villa in sight. They, the villas that is, were not far away and the most ostentatious of them was next to a golf complex complete with a Marriott's Hotel! No, we did not attempt admittance. In fact poverty returned and we were on a dirt track again, which culminated in a sand dune. With our waning strength, we pushed and pulled the bikes through and had a momentary collapse and sense of humour failure.

We were now seriously overhot so, it was with some relief that we entered Peniche. This night we were going to find an hotel and our first port of call was the tourist information office which was devoid of any helpful information. It had the good fortune, though, to be situated opposite a small hotel which was happy to store our bikes in the empty shop next door and offer us a room for 35 euros including breakfast. Too good an opportunity to miss and we took the offer for two nights in order to have a bit of a rest and properly wash our stinking gear.

distant forest fires

Thursday 30.05.2019

Figueira da Foz - Sao Pedro de Moel

There is a big bridge which spans the river at Fig da Foz and we did need to cross said river but we were unclear as to whether this magnificent span was a motorway! (Memories of Sicily came to mind). Erring on the side of caution, we thought it better to take the long route to a second crossing. As that decision was made, Alan spotted a group of cyclist pedalling over the bridge. We found the access but the cycle track was, as you would expect, on the other side of the barrier! Having noted the speed and the size of the vehicles using the road a bit of faffing was required to locate the start of the barrier and make sure we were on the right side of it. It was quite an unnerving experience even protected by the barrier, how the group preceding us stood up to the traffic, I don't know. They were from Rome so maybe it was chicken feed for them. Safe on the far bank, and having deviated from the proscribed route, it took Master Navigator a few moments of concentration to come up with an alternative way on, which he did, needless to say.

Everything which is described as passing through lush forest is now a misnomer as the trees have been destroyed by fire and stand like black telegraph poles providing no shade whatsoever on a very long road.

Perhaps the most significant thing about today, had been the unexpectedly high temperature so lots of sweating and lots of drinking. Neither of us could face erecting a tent in the heat so very sensibly opted for a hotel with showers and air conditioning. We know how to live! We are also sharing the accommodation with a couple of guided groups who have been grasshoppering with us for much of the day.

As we gained a few kms with the bridge crossing, we are a little into tomorrow's route which might be to the good as I have made a note that we may have some serious climbing to do or maybe not. Looking forward to it all anyway.

the view from the bridge Figueira da Foz

Tonight's stop

On the way to 'Figgy Foz'

Road through Portugal - Tuesday 28thMay

Porto - Sao Jacinta

Refreshed from our night in a real bed, and a long conversation with a gentleman from Thailand, we made an enthusiastic start. The track or boardwalk really was stunning following the beach - ah, but then, with all the high winds the boards were knee deep in sand! Turn round, found a road, then steps! A very squidgy lane allowed us to avoid the steps and then began a massive detour around the salt marshes. A great place for bird watching or providing a feast for the midgies. Lunch was a very rushed affair accompanied by much flesh slapping! Eventually, we had nearly completed the circumnavigation except for the last couple of kilometres to a necessary bridge crossing, against the wind. We do commiserate with the cyclists determinedly fighting with it all day! The wind I mean.

A one and a half wait for the ferry ensued where we met up with a very gutsy American lady, so we passed the time very amiably chatting about bike routes in various parts of the world. Exit from the ferry was less than easy with the route dictating that we take a dual carriageway which, needless to say, prohibited bikes and those people riding them! Undaunted, we found an alternative and 12 kilometres later our tent was pitched, we were clean and heading for somewhere to eat. And did we find the right place. Looked like nothing, but the fish platter that arrived would have challenged the best restaurant for quality and taste. Superb! Made all the more enjoyable as we were sharing the space with a group of guys on a jolly. And very jolly they were too. A grand end to the day.

Sao Jacinta - Figueira da Foz  

Wednesday 29th May

This really was not our day! The first hour or so was fine. We breakfasted in the camp site cafe, waved to our host of the previous evening as we rode passed and found out path pdq. An hour or so later we were much less sanguine. We discovered that when the Portuguese say a road is damaged, it is actually, totally destroyed. In all our thousands of kilometres of riding some pretty dubious paths, this was 22 kms of the worst, by a country mile. Sadly, we were committed before we realised that these massive potholes and loose stones were to continue unabated. Unable to lift eyes from the road and threatening to take a fall at any time, it was exhausting and very slow. Clearly, there were alternatives cos we met a group at the end of this arduous adventure who were on a guided ride and their guide had made it clear that the route we had followed was impassable! The forestry we were in was completely destroyed by fire and so had the surface of the road. According to the GPX route we were exactly on course.

Thinking that was the worst over (well it was,but the next bit was a very close second) we headed off for the last twelve kms to our destination. Now we were confronted with a 14% hill, followed by a road blocked by huge boulders. There was just enough room to squeeze through onto the unmade road on the other side. Impossible to ride with laden bikes, we forged onward and upward (a couple of kms) 'til we came to the second pile of boulders, much like the first. Finally, on a metalled road, we hurtled downhill into Figueira. Forget camping! Found a very reasonably priced hotel and rested our quite weary bodies.

NB. This is NOT a completed Eurovelo route or even close and we suspect, has been lifted from a map and certainly not ridden. It is some years from completion so BEWARE!

26th - Monday 27th

Caminha  - Espino around 140kms

So we are finally on our way!  The van is now parked out of the way and under the trees and we have had much support from the campsite staff. We have been furnished with phone numbers in case of problems and many comments of support and good luck. So here's to the Portugal adventure.

It all began with a fabulous run along the coast with a whizzy wind of some 20kms.(the wind strength and the distance). We meandered around a very wiggly route and, without Al's magic machine and all those hours of transferring files etc, we would have had no chance of finding our route. And I thought all that time in the office was just about skiving off the washing up! Of signs along the route, there were none! And nobody mentioned that lots of the lesser roads (most of them) are cobbled! Ugh! Sudacreme to the rescue. Very relieved that we are bouncing around on bikes which will cope with the vagaries of continual bumping.

We have discovered that we are encountering lots of folk with rucksacks and shells! This time we are going in the opposite directions to all the pelicans but who still insist on wishing us a 'bon camino!' However, being on the route has proved to be very advantageous as our campsite catered primarily at this time of year for those making the pilgrimage. So we enjoyed a great evening meal and excellent facilities.

A sunny Sunday with shed loads of people making the most of the seaside and ensuring that the proms were overrun with dogs, small children, adolescents still admiring their phones and the occasional decent chap who said Hi or the Portuguese equivalent.

Good to get the first day completed with no unforseen problems!?

Monday 27th - Made it to Espino via very busy Porto.

Not a bad night under canvas if one ignores the gale force winds, pounding surf and ants wandering indicriminately over naked bodies. No harm, they just tickle and disturb slumber. Mind you, the evening meal accompanied by a bottle of delicious wine may have made a small contribution to restlessness. Always up for a challenge, Al had a meat course which contained every part of a pig except, it would seem, the muscle and all with beans! Very nice apparently! I stuck with the fish.

Nevertheless, we were up and running by nine this morning and enjoyed a good 20kms along the coast still with our whizzy wind - thank goodness. A chance encounter with the police earned us a thumbs up from the driver- another first and much appreciated. Still, all good things come to an end and in our case it was the cobbles…………….and yet more cobbles.

Master navigator has had to check constantly that we are still on course. That he was successful was proved by our reaching Porto and it's thousands of people. Pushing through the throng was frustrating and a time consuming stop/go involving much walking. And an occasional push up a ramp from a charming electrician working on a connection! And an encounter with a couple from Caernarfon.

Up the river we went (not actually in the water) til we eventually found a bridge, crossed it and then faced a nostril wind to regain the coast. All good for the soul. Mm……….

We have also, since leaving Porto in our wake, seen our first route sign! Not many followed but we live in hope.

Indoors tonight in a hostel/appartment.       

Road to Portugal 20 - 22May

Monday saw a complete change in the weather to the extent where we enjoyed a walk into the village and partook of a very tasty lunch on the terrace of a harbourside restaurant. A day complete with a finale of the sun setting over the sea.

Tuesday was a shortish drive to La Paz last visited some twenty five years ago. In twenty five years not a lot has changed except for the vast road which now runs along the coast of Northern Spain with not a donkey in sight. Venture a few metres from said road and the campsite access retains its charming narrow, winding potholey track to the base of the 1:15 hill and reception. No longer requiring a tractor to haul us to the top, the ascent was somewhat nerve wracking but the magnificent view is unchanged. The sea a deep blue with the mountains behind. A delight to find it unchanged.

Having been instructed to find a pitch, any pitch, except the one we chose!  See, I did say nothing had changed! Had better luck the second time - shelter from a still slightly chilly wind and stunning views of the sea. If we thought choosing a pitch was difficult, it was nothing compared with trying to obtain a decent shower. Lots of taps and switches but no instructions! Obviously, one turned the first tap (cold water!) then one pressed the light switch on the wall which allowed the hot water to flow. Piece of cake……….not.

Nothing compares with sitting on the beach watching the tide rise and then watching the sunset over the headland - bloody marvelous. Lots of lovely memories.

Wednesday 22nd May

A day of relaxation in the sun and taking lunch on the terrace. What a life!

Road to Portugal23 - 25 May

You might be forgiven for thinking that we are delaying our real departure and you would be correct but the journey has been worth the delay. Thursday was a full day on the road but such a stunning route. Apart from the views of coast and mountains, the feats of engineering required to incorporate numerous tunnels and viaducts is quite mind boggling. So, apart from Tom Tom making one of its cock-ups trying to locate the campsite and expecting us to negotiate farm tracks, we find ourselves at the start of our ride but we haven't started quite yet.

It was with considerable relief that on our arrival, our receptionist spoke extremely good English and we were able to explain our intentions and requirements in minutes and it seemed nothing was too much trouble. It was an unexpectedly uncomplicated arrival into a very friendly campsite. We are not entirely sure of the exact spot that we shall be leaving the van but as long as we return before September! when the site closes for the winter there should be no problem.

As the clocks are an hour behind Spain and France, we were in bed by 21.30 very relieved to feel that all would be well with the world.

Friday 24th May

We met with the 'chief' today who has confirmed that we are able to leave the van, that we have his 'phone number in case of problems and that we agree to make a payment - all of which is very satisfactory.We have, therefore, finally unloaded the bikes and pedalled up the road to ensure that we, and the bikes still function. All good.

Discovering that the campsite restaurant would be opening for the first time this year, we felt obliged to attend so at 19.00 we made our way over only to find a very agitated 'chief' and a more sanguine chef. Eating, it seemed might be a problem - no gas! Technician is on his way though. We could still drink and as we cleared half the bottle of wine the technician turned up, switches a switch and hey presto the gas came through. By this time, we had been joined by Jeff and then by the 'chief'. A superb  meal of sword fish arrived - well worth the wait. A thoroughly pleasant evening enjoying interesting company, excellent food and an excellent wine.

Tomorrow, we get down to the basics - trying to find the beginning of the route, packing and loading the bikes,ready, at last, for the off.

On the way to Portugal

Sunday 19.05.2019

Last night as I meandered into sleep, I constructed the perfect sentence to begin this most recent blog which I hope will take us from Northern Portugal to its border with Spain in the South. This morning, however, the perfect sentence has misted away so I begin as usual.

It was a relief to finally drive away from home, not that we don't love home just that after several days of sourcing, choosing and packing those items we consider essential, actually hitting the road is balm to the soul.

Normally, we would have expected the weather to improve as we drove South but not today. Cloud thickened and the time we reached Bordeaux skies were a grey cloak of weeping drizzle. Drizzle turned to rain and rain to a downpour of biblical proportions. Not to be outdone, the wind had risen to storm force whipping the sea into a frenzy only marginally quieter than the French equivalent of the red arrows which flew directly overhead emitting red, white and blue smoke. What a welcome! A flypast no less.

So, we are in the place where it all began, St Jean de Luz, where we dipped our toes in the sea prior to departing our ride along the Pyrenees. Much has happened since then, not least the addition of several years to our ages and a number of long rides. (Now getting shorter and certainly slower)

Saturday 08.09.2018

Neptune's Staircase - Oban

I shall not dwell on the disappointing start to this our last day except to mention an altercation with the manageress of this 'posh’ hotel. I rarely complain but a faulty radiator in our bathroom had set up a banging which in my exhausted sleep, I had not heard for some time. When I became aware of the noise, I got up, traced the source and turned off the offending towel rail. At the same time the phone rang to let me know that other guests were being disturbed. All resolved. In view of the prestige of the Moorings Hotel, I had expected some small compensation for a very disturbed night. Not so. When I gently suggested this might be an appropriate gesture, the manageress went for me like a Rottweiler and suggested that I should have woken earlier and solved her problem. I had not expected much but I had not expected such aggression. I apologized to the young receptionist for starting her day badly and left to load my bike. Such a shame!

Still, all that needed to be put aside and get on with the job of riding. This was a truly lovely ride. Nearly all of it was off road and very varied and always accompanied by the beauty of the Highlands. We had to make it to the Camusnagual ferry for 10o’clock in Fort William. What a funny little boat - the bikes were strapped to the roof and the panniers had to be loaded separately! Despite its small size, it was full of walkers and cyclists (full was only about a dozen bodies). Weather still holding and, after reloading the bikes in the sunshine, we set off along the lockside - really lovely. The second ferry from Corran was altogether different - much bigger with cars but free for bikes! This well designed route continued to please and at 80 kms we were feeling cautiously elated - nearly there. THEN the final ten kms rose in a series of ups and downs to over 300 feet which doesn’t sound much but the day’s total was over 3000ft. To say we were tired would be to underestimate substantially our actual fatigue. BUT we had made it back to our campsite and our van. Group hugs, fizzy and pasta led to instant deep sleep.