More Route Notes

Alan's Boring Bits

Through Denmark, Germany, Czech Rep, most of Austria, and northern Italy we followed the EV7. A route full of interest and variety with some dramatic scenery and spectacular towns and cities. From a purely technical point of view, anyone who is looking to cycle this route and has read the criteria for a cycle track to be included in the Eurovelo 7 scheme will be expecting asphalt surfaces, no steep hills and continuous signposting. They will be disappointed. All countries had sections that conformed and all countries had sections that were almost uncyclable when laden with kit. Germany and Czech Rep were very fond of cobbles in all sizes. Gravel surfaces varied from dust to 5cm rocks but in the main were good. In Czech Rep. one section of a signed national route had a notice (on leaving) to say that the track was very dangerous and you used it at your own risk. Yet, in the same country, we also came across a 5km section of baby’s bum smooth asphalt with shaded stopping places, taps with drinking water and the only Eurovelo 7 maps we saw in 7000 kms. In Northern Italy, we cycled on one of the best tracks of the journey. A converted railway line where, at the entrance to all the tunnels, they had put sensors that activated the lights. This was immediately followed by the most undulating section of the ride with most of the ups and downs well in excess of 10%. Spotting shortcuts became an art but on this occasion we missed the quiet road that gently followed the valley floor below us.

It was impossible to rely on the signs throughout this part of the journey. Again inconsistency is the key word. It was not unusual to have no signs at one junction and, at the next, more signs than there were exits. Good maps /guides were essential but these were not always readily available and often could only be found in bookshops in the larger towns or cities. On the more popular sections of the route, a lot of touring cyclists had very detailed and voluminous guides.

In Northern Italy, we had to decide whether to follow the EV7 down the west coast or to follow the east coast down to Sicily. We chose the east and, in the main, it was flat and relatively easy cycling but with very few cycle tracks. Some sections in Northern Italy are worth repeating whole some in the poorer areas of Southern Italy are definitely worth missing (see blog). I suspect that the western side of Italy may have a lot more of interest. I look forward to reading about what we missed when Neil Gander gets round to completing the sequel to his book “Kök and Tvät” (Still the funniest book I have read in a long time and an inspiration to get on your bike and “just do it”).

Navigating the roads on the tip of Italy and Sicily proved more difficult than expected. On several occasions roads suddenly became motorways forcing us to take long, complex and unsigned diversions which invariably took us back to the same road only a couple of kms further on. In one instance there were no warning signs, only a diversion sign and a ramp onto the motorway with no way of going back! In Sicily, diversion signs for missing bridges and road works almost always took us back to the motorway.

When on the roads, drivers were generally courteous and, despite comments to the contrary, the Italian drivers were brilliant to the point of giving us so much clearance that they would drive vehicles coming the opposite way off the road.

Accommodation was not a problem down to Rimini and when we decided to stop for the day, we rarely had to pedal for more than 20km to find something suitable. Those looking to rely on campsites and budget accommodation will need to do a lot more forward planning than we did. Arriving in Rimini on the busiest holiday week end in Italy was a mistake. Every hotel, guest house and campsite prided themselves on being full for the fortnight. Further south and away from the coast many of the smaller hotels and b&b’s were closed for the holidays but the chain hotels were never far away. Every establishment made an effort to secure our bikes and trailers for the night to the point of one hotel giving the bikes their own room free of charge.

Malta was a disappointment as it does little to cater for cyclists. The road surfaces are in a very poor state and drivers in the main, are not cycle aware. Despite our flags, fluorescent jackets and flashing lights, we had more near misses in the 12kms from the ferry to the hotel than at any other point in the journey. The grating across the drive to our hotel was designed to swallow cycle tyres. So alien were cyclists that we were threatened with security as we approached the hotel entrance even though we had booked and arranged for our bikes to be stored. As with the rest of our journey, the majority of the people that we met were friendly and helpful but the only other positive I can find to say about Malta is the flight home. Excellent service from Air Malta and only £12 per bike. No fancy bike boxes were required. We simply had to remove the pedals, turn handlebars round and deflate the tyres.

Hope this helps if you’re planning a similar journey. Remember I’m a grumpy old wrinkly and many of the moans above proved really memorable highlights to our journey.  There were no major insurmountable traumas and when we needed help it was provided in abundance. We made business cards with a map of our journey and these proved invaluable in changing the perplexed look of the many people that we met into a smile and gushing words of encouragement.

Post a comment with your email address if you have any specific queries. I’ll do my best to help.

Overall a wonderful, wonderful journey.

The End (Part II)

Alan’s Boring Bits

It’s been a memorable journey. While travelling across a range of landscapes from the frozen tundra above the arctic circle, through Scandinavia and central Europe, over the Alps and down to the arid mountains of the South, we have been provided with a fascinating insight into the cultural differences that still exist across Europe despite “globalisation". In world where only negatives make the news, the one constant has been the many wonderful people that we have met along the way who have been friendly, supportive and generous. We have never felt threatened and whenever we have needed assistance people have gone to extraordinary lengths to help. The hundreds of cyclists, bikers, motorists and lorry drivers who tooted, flashed their lights, waved or yelled words of encouragement, provided constant motivation to grind out the miles while on the road.  The 5000 plus hits on the blog and a constant stream of emails and texts lifted our spirits. To all who have been so supportive and to those who have donated so generously to “Medecins sans Frontieres” (just click the “Virgin Money Giving” icon on the blog)  – many, many thanks.

A very special thanks I reserve for Mary who, at the end of each (often very tiring) day, sat down, made notes and completed this blog. I am very lucky to share my life with such an incredibly talented and determined lady.

THE END

Pozzallo – Malta  (mostly by boat)

Well, the ferry did leave at 0930 and we were in good time. There were a few moments of nervousness when the ticket office was still closed at 0745. But this was Sicily! Our tickets were purchased and now we had to wait for the ferry to arrive. During this interval, we had a long conversation with an Italian, who spoke only Italian, about the virtues of some parts of Italy and Sicily and a conversation in English with a gentleman who had secured a job in Malta and was with his family in two cars. We learned, in detail, of the various mishaps which had befallen them on the way from Cowbridge. We wonder now if those continued on his arrival in Malta! I will explain.

We thought we had travelled some pretty hairy roads, but our introduction to Malta was as scary as it was unexpected. We had planned to avoid the major peripherique but it seemed we were left with little choice. Unsympathetic traffic, driving on the left, tunnels and hills all conspired to leave us pretty tense and drained on our eventual arrival at our hotel. Now, we had been extravagant in our choice of final hotel as a prize for completing our journey, so we were somewhat taken aback by our reception; an irate man in a suit waving his arms energetically and shouting that we could not leave our bikes there. At this point Mr. Angry lost it, marched into the foyer, confronted the management and succinctly explained that after more than 6500 kms and numerous stops at everything from campsites to posh hotels, this had been an unforgettable welcome for all the wrong reasons. Much boot licking and apologies followed but the damage had been done. A shame but it is still a very nice hotel!

So we end our adventure after 100 days of cycling and I will miss talking to you all. It has been a comfort to know that we have not been alone. So here is to the next time?!!!!!!

Last Full Day

Augusto – Pozzallo      105.3kms              1160’ascent (which I think is understated!)

This was to be our last day of cycling. As a result of all the excitement and fatigue of yesterday, we had completed fewer kilometres than planned, so we knew that today would require a good effort –just how good, we were soon to discover. A second deviation resulted in another 20 or so extra kilometres in order to avoid the MOTORWAY! Temperatures had not diminished and our route, while safe, took us through huge industrial areas (not very beautiful but, I guess, jolly useful for the well- being of the country). Mr. Master Navigator performed faultlessly and it wasn’t his fault that the last 30 kilometres of a 100 kms ride were uphill! We passed through towns which deserved more observation than we had time to give; Noto and Ispica both of which had ancient citadels perched on rocky bluffs. Our schedule allowed little time for anything except pedalling and refuelling with fluids.

We reached Pozzallo eventually, in the early evening, and thought it prudent to check on the actual whereabouts of the port. (Pozzallo was just a little dot on the map but in reality was a huge muddle of buildings which stretched for miles.) As we were still in Italy mode, we had little expectation of large, well defined signs for Porto, but none at all was an achievement even for Italy. After several sets of directions provided by the local populace, several more kilometres, and a few well-chosen expletives, we did eventually discover the embarkation point. In the knowledge that we had to return by 0800 the following morning, accommodation nearby was going to be useful. There was still some doubt as to sailing times as a member of the dock staff said, “Tomorrow at 0930.”  Another said, “At 1500.” We made the decision to be there for the 0930 and hope.

A sign, at last a sign, this time for an albergo just 500 metres up the road. A fee was negotiated, a room allocated and we performed our end of day routine – wash the clothes and then ourselves. I had asked the signora if there was any wine or beer to be had but she shook her head and generously gave us two bottles of very cold water which was magic. At a point when I was halfway through our routine and thus totally naked, there came a knock on the door. Throwing a towel over my nakedness, I pulled open the door and there, the signora presented us with a nearly full bottle of local wine. No charge. There are so many kind people in this world. This must include all those of you who have been good enough to take an interest in our undertaking. We thank you for your comments, emails and phone calls which have often provided encouragement when things have been tough.

Tomorrow should see us at journeys end – fingers crossed.

Fire in the Sky

Reggio  -  San Leonardello (on the slopes of Mt. Etna)  74.8kms     1460’ ascent.

Nobody mentioned just how mountainous Sicily is. Very beautiful but not the easiest of cycling country. On one particularly steep climb, Alan suddenly stopped. On the roadside was something which resembled a small snake  -  his chain! He pushed to the summit, a space and a little shade and Mr. Fixit appeared and did just that.

As it was Sunday, the ferry ran a reduced service and so it was almost lunch time before we dropped anchor in Sicily. Surprisingly, Messina was not difficult to traverse but it did mean that by the time we began our hunt for the night’s accommodation, it was quite late and, as ever, the hotels which had been so prolific, disappeared. A little desperate, we spotted a large gate with Agriturismo on sign and a bed diagram, so I pushed the bell. A voice answered the call, said something in Italian and  the gates slowly swung open. In for a penny, we pushed the bikes over very rocky (lava stone) and were met by a gentleman who spoke a lot, but none of it in English. After a little confusion we managed to convey our requirements. Referring to a little book, he informed us that there was a room available. Great. It was. An old property with many interesting features and a cracking view of Etna. Our arrival coincided with a French registered car being driven along the drive and a voice shouted, “Have you cycled all the way from Wales?” “No, Nordkapp.”  “I’ll catch you later,” was the response. So much later, we enjoyed the company of two very good English speaking Parisians.

You would suppose that with all this exercise, we would sleep soundly but my night was disturbed by a bout of cramp. Needing to stretch my legs, I thought to view Etna at night. What a sight! It was really a fire in the sky. Magnificent! 

Police to the Rescue

San Leonardello  -  Augusto   74.7                   1372’ascent.

The down side of Etna firing so spectacularly was that the following morning (today) the air was full of fine black ash. In a very short while we were very mucky and all the cars were the same colour – grey. The other downside of a volcanic environment is that the street are paved with square lava cobbles! Very bad for the trailers.

However, today’s highlight has to be the manner in which two policemen sympathetically and sensibly dealt with two old age pensioners who found themselves on the motorway! The story goes like this; we were trying to follow the ss114 through Catania. We did follow the signs. What we didn’t realise was that the ss114 had lost a strategic bridge and the road signs were following a deviation. We climbed out of the town and finally up a steep ramp onto, what we mistakenly thought was the ss114. After about 1km, we were flagged down by a man in a van with a blue light! The penny dropped; we were on the motorway! Sh…..t. After much arm waving, and a call to the police, the man in his van escorted us to a nearby service station. Here we waited in some trepidation, for the police to arrive. We explained in our best English that it was a genuine mistake and that we were trying to get to Siracrusa. Having established that we were just a couple of rather stupid, old English, they instructed us to follow the car with the blue lights flashing. We did - at speed for about 10 kilometres! Not only did they see us safely off the motorway, they ensured that we were put onto the right road which we would never have found ourselves. Finally, as our strength gave out, they stopped, we thanked them profusely and after much hand shaking we were on our way, absolutely exhausted. Until that point, we hadn’t been sure whether we were to be booked or fined and the adrenaline was pumping along with hearts and lungs. Many thanks to the Sicilian Police force.

Three Sides of The Runway

Brancaleone  -  Reggio di Calabria    69.3kms        557’ascent

If I never see the words Reggio di C again it will be too soon! It has been urging us on now for over 400 kms of hard graft. The cycling today has retained all the characterisitcs of the previous few days so I won’t gripe on any more about how challenging it has been. However, as always, the Italians have inspired comment.

We reached Reggio in good time as the journey wasn’t that long but then began our search for the port from which we planned to take the ferry for Sicily. Tootling along quite happily, our road suddenly and unexpectedly became a motorway and we were obliged to exit. Hm…. The sensible thing to do was to make for the sea and follow the coastline. After all a sea ferry must, by definition, require some sea. Downhill we went following narrow and winding streets until Alan stopped, “GPS says that the airport is ahead and there is no way through!” Bother and other such words sprang to mind. Back uphill we went to attempt to get around the airport. Hoorah; breathless, and exceedingly hot, we located our road. On track again (maybe). We stopped to buy drinks and asked the staff the way to the port. “ Keep on this road for thirteen kms.” Wrong port! We did keep on, and guess what?  the road turned into a motorway again and we had to exit stage left. Down the hill again. This time we were past the airport. GPS had given up hope, but Mr. Master Navigator kept his head and we eventually found the coast road and a sign for the port! We were, by now, a little jaded and decided to stay in Italy and take the ferry the next day. As we pushed the bikes and trailers into their own allocated bedroom, a very loud hiss emanated from Alan’s trailer wheel. A flat!  Mr. Fixit got to work and a little while later all was well.

We rounded off the day with a meal on the sea front. It was just like being on holiday! Lovely views, a soft warm wind and excellent fare. Here’s to tomorrow.

"But This Is Italy"

Crotone  - Badolato                 95.7kms                 863’ascent

Badolato  -  Brancaleone         91.8kms                487’ ascent

These two days definitely belong together. They have just been f………..ing hard work on a road whose characterisitcs vary from wide and smooth to narrow and bumpy; through towns which are bustling with the usual amount of casual interaction with bikes, cars, lorries and pedestrians.

It had been my intention to say little more, but I feel bound to comment on our search for accommodation last night. I received a less than cordial welcome from the first hotel I visited; all white sofas and swanky mats. The thought of accommodating two smelly cyclists was obviously more than the owner could bear. However, he did make a ‘phone call to a camp site and found us a cabin. The welcome we received there was, in every way, the opposite. The signora was effusive (in Italian) and the site and cabin spotlessly clean. We headed for the bar and two large beers. There then ensued a conversation in four languages between ourselves, the barman and two locals. Having downed I know not how many grappas the two young men wished us well and went to do whatever young men do in the evening. Having nearly finished our drinks, I was curious as to the nature of some foodstuffs in a hot cabinet. Peering in, I looked up to find the barman offering me what looked like a large doughnut. Alan received one as well and I can vouch for the fact that they were delicious, full of ham and cheese. The same barman then produced a brochure for the area which looks to be rich in history. We shall return to this part of Italy with a small car and explore the mountains and the villages.

The second event worthy of mention occurred today in one of the towns. At the narrow entrance to a bridge, a cycle track with a big blue cycle sign appeared (the first we have seen in this part of Italy). Very excited, we followed it over the bridge and then……………..it went through a right angle and stopped. There was no access to any road and the only way to regain the tarmac was to lift the bikes and trailers over, not just a two foot concrete wall, but a crash barrier as well! With the help of a young man on a Vespa, who spotting our dilemma drove down to assist with the lifting, the bikes and trailers were returned to the road.  Another nice young man. A less useful motorist drove by, waved, and shouted, ‘But this is Italy!!’ 

So Much Potential

Rossana  -  Crotone          96.1kms     335’ ascent

Today has been a day of traffic, tarmac and temperatures which remain in the high 30’s and possibly more. What is worthy of comment though, is the state of this south eastern part of Italy. It is a forlorn area dotted with the skeletal remnants of ambitious projects where the buildings have never been finished. The impression created is that of a plan which either ran out of funding or enthusiasm. This is not to say that there are no new initiatives, but in general, the aspect is one of slow dereliction.

It is this lack of care which is represented by the vast amounts of garbage which accumulates along the roadsides. The very large bins which are provided in the towns, are overflowing and, in the heat, the decay and smells are overwhelming. There seems to be no body that has the direction or inclination to clear up. And yet the countryside, the beaches and the towns could have much to offer.

Alan has been impressed with the level of consideration we have received from the Italian motorist. They show less consideration for other drivers. It is difficult to travel more than several kilometres without passing a religious and flora tribute to, mostly young men, who have met their demise.

The kerbside is also the graveyard of many and different mammals some of which are unidentifiable. Again there seems no system in place to remove carcasses so, while some are obviously recent, others have been subsumed into the tarmac. Not even scavenging birds have feasted on the dead.

It is a bleak, but accurate picture I paint. Nonetheless, folk still holiday in the area and the cars they drive are not old bangers, but expensive vehicles even if most of them have a dent or two!  But, as ever, the people remain friendly and helpful although it is often difficult to understand whether they are shouting in anger or just shouting! Not a soft spoken race.

Long Way to Butlin's

Policoro  -  Rossano    85.8 kms     347’ascent

These next few days promise to be somewhat tedious as we are left with little choice but to follow the main road for the most part. Mr. Master Navigator has done his best to take our route onto quieter stretches of road when it has been possible, but the relief has been short lived. However, we are getting used to the extra traffic and besides, we have not long to go.

We have been confused by signs for Reggio which have had a discrepancy of 100kms. (354kms or 254kms). Sadly ours is the greater distance as we are following the coast, and the shorter route rushes off into the mountains and onto the motorway neither of which we are keen undertake. The mountains do look magnificent but not an area to be explored by two pensioners on bikes! The coast road may not be the most exciting place to be, but it does have the significant advantage of being a much flatter alternative. After three months, and quite a few mountains, our legs really appreciate the concern we have for them! Not to mention the heart and lungs and the cooling system!  (Temperatures are not dropping)

This is not the heartland for Italian holiday makers and hotels less prolific. We congratulated ourselves on finding one but were slightly less enthusiastic when we realised that it is actually just a bit like a posh Butlins. Our room is fine and we are only here for one night. Heads down again tomorrow.