Back To Where It Started

Tuesday 19. 06. 2012     Zebegeny – Papsziget  (about 20kms short of Budapest)
Wednesday 20.06.2012   Papsziget  - 

The idea of making a short day of today was so that we could rest awhile and contemplate the navigational rigours of traversing Budapest tomorrow. So we enjoyed a leisurely and unremarkable ride in temperatures which show no sign of decreasing. (Still up in the high 30s). We arrived in the mid afternoon at a fairly dilapidated site. Its appearance may have been disappointing but the facilities were all that we could wish – old, but clean and functional with a very reasonably priced restaurant so I left the stove in the trailer. Always the best place for it! A good meal served by a delightful young man anxious to practice his English (or Irish as he had honed this skill in Dublin), a pretty hot and sticky night in the confines of the tent, and we were ready for Wednesday’s challenge. It was not go exactly to plan!

It had always been my intention to write the blog for these two days together. What I did not know, was that it would be my last! It has to be said that Budapest was not the easiest place to ride. You have to accept that as something of an under-statement. It was a city full of the sound/noise of motor vehicles. It is true, that there was much beauty in the architecture and, no doubt there was much to recommend its offerings to culture but for us, it represented many of the things that modern life seems to require, at the expense of the original wonder. That said, I am sure some of you now are certain that I am a charlatan. Anyway, after a good many wrong guesses (even with two maps) we were well clear of the city when IT happened! My excuse – that I was tired, a bit fraught and very, very hot. Pretty poor excuse I hear you cry. My trailer wheel hit a very upstanding speed bump, flipped over bringing my bike to an abrupt halt catapulting me through the air to land in the dirt. As it was my second fall of the day I had hoped a quick rub and dust down would see me whizzing again. In short time and feeling sick (always a bit of a giveaway) it was clear that the injury sustained by my right wrist this time was not going to respond to a quick ‘kiss it better’. Mmmm….. we knew where we were on our map but had no idea how to pronounce the name and even less how to explain to a taxi or an ambulance where they might find us. We stood looking forlorn for some time while vehicles, disappointingly, gave us a wide birth. It was clear that we must initiate some action or stand like a couple of lemons all day. Bravely, Alan hailed a couple of young girls on bikes. (Pretty too.) I have already commented on the thoughtfulness and kindness of youth and now we encountered it again. One of said lassies spoke very good English and once we had explained our predicament she called the emergency services explaining how to find us. Not satisfied at that act of kindness, she and her friend offered to remain with us until the ambulance (I use that term loosely) arrived. When the vehicle arrived some 20 minutes later, she was able to explain to the medic (and I use that term loosely) what the situation was and more importantly she was able to convey to Alan the name of the hospital they would take me to. I left my poor spouse in hands of our little angels while I was sirened back to Budapest. I really wasn’t that unwell! The journey still took forever and while I was relieved to have survived it, I was less confident about building I was ushered into. To those of us from the west it was a shock, looking much more like a hostel for down and outs than a 21^st century hospital. However, the medical treatment, while basic, was efficient and the doctor, very competent. Alone in such a place, and probably looking a bit lost, a very large and unkempt man approached me. Now I don’t do cowering, but with some temerity I acknowledged his ‘Excuse me.’ (in perfect English) ‘Can I get you a coffee or something?’ His kindness nearly had me in tears but I didn’t want to dilute the coffee so generously proffered. I thank him from the bottom of my heart.

Finally, lying with my hand in a rack, my ‘phone rang. It was with much relief that I heard Alan’s voice firstly checking that I was still in one piece and secondly to say, that with much help from les girls, Ramona and Erika, he, bikes and trailers were ensconced in the airport hotel and I should make my way there when the torture was over. Two hours later we were re-united and our voyage was over. Now we await our flight in some luxury and with grateful thanks to Deborah and Brendan, who will collect us from Paris, and we return home somewhat sooner than expected.  

Despite completing just about two thirds of our anticipated journey, the experience, as ever, has been full of interest and human kindness. We have enjoyed the variety of the different environments and cultures, and we have benefitted from the work put in by the organisers of the Eurovelo 6. That, on occasions, when it has been less than perfect, the fault probably lies with local vandalism or sheer ignorance as to the importance of the signs. On this trip we have encountered a plethora of different track surfaces, and it has to be said that some are found wanting. We are all up for a challenge but rutted and muddy without a quality mountain bike are not a lot of fun. Much of the scenery has been glorious even in the rain, of which we have had a goodly amount and the rivers have been endlessly changing as water is wont to do. As ever, we have been cheered by your comments and good wishes and so with heavy heart (no, arm) we bid you adieu with our thanks for your support.

Crash,Bang and a Disconcerting Whallop

Monday  18. 06. 2012  Komaron – Zebegeny   71.6kms

We had an enthusiastic send off from our host. It might just have been that he wanted to make sure that we left, but I don’t think so. (I should mention that Komaron is a Spa town and I suspect we were the only people too tired to take the waters.)

We were in for another hot day and a nostril wind, the latter providing us with at least some cooling properties along with the brakes on bit. We also found our silver brigade – I knew we would. I had just made a foray into TESCO would you believe, and we had drunk our fourth litre of liquid, consumed two ice creams when we saw folk on the cycle track. (Prior to this we were obliged to share the road with an alarming number of trucks, when we had been led to believe that this section of road was truck free!) Anyway, some few minutes later, we came upon a small crowd of cyclists. Thinking that there might be a problem we could help with, we joined their ranks. Three were Australian and the other two were from the UK and following the same E6 route as we were. The only other mad people we have so far come across. We spent a little time swapping stories and experiences and then we made off with renewed vigour. Much of this vigour was due to our not wanting to be overtaken!

We were given to understand that the next section was picturesque and it is true that we had found the river again at last.  It is also true that is was very pretty. We had to take another ferry onto the other side of the river. At this point I took stock of financial resources and deemed it propitious to find a bank and top up. 100 metres into the village a bank emerged which was shut! The ATM however was open. We returned to our signed track and discovered that new paths had been laid and we didn’t have to take to the road. By now, quite/very hot we saw a sign for a hotel which suggested that it welcomed cyclists. After a certain amount of dissension and discussion between husband and wife, we were allocated a room. We were not exactly the subject of the dissension (no smell) but the fact that they were going out and would need to leave the boy in charge. It has been a delightful experience as we dined on the terrace and watched an inspiring sunset. Then suddenly, there was a very loud bang and a part of the railway electricity pylon immediately beside our balcony gave way. At almost the same instant a train appeared around the corner. It was inevitable that something unexpected was going to take place. It did. The train hit the pylon arm, the electrics blew, lots of whizz bangs and flashes and the goods train came to a halt. Such excitement at the end of the day. No person was injured but how long the repairs will take is anybody’s guess. Welcome to Hungary.   

Pension

Sunday  17. 06. 2012  Asvanyraro – Komaron   81kms.

Today was hot before 08.00 so we knew we were in for a determined ride. Made breaking camp an easy task as everything was dry. Excellent start. After an hour or so we rode into Gyor, which on the map looked a relatively uncomplicated town to negotiate. Nobody had told the E6 crowd that the roads had been modified and the signs (if there ever were any) had gone walkabout. Mr. Master Navigator faced his most difficult challenge so far. We crossed a bridge, but it was the wrong bridge; we/ he found the correct bridge. At no junction was there any evidence of an E6 sign and Mr. Master Navigator was entirely reliant on a map in a book which was clearly out of date. The sun provided a clue and after a couple more wrong moves, we finally found the right road – which was horrible;

lumpy, potholey and running through an old tumbledown industrial zone. Always up for a challenge, we plunged on, ignoring the dust and the heat and the ever present thirst.  It has to be said that some days are harder than others and this was up there with some of the most demanding. The river seems to have disappeared completely and the scenery has been less than attractive. Just when we thought we were knacked, our track became a dirt road, which deteriorated into a muddy, puddly and very lumpy obstacle. As we emerged from the trees (that was the plus side – shade) we decided enough was enough and began the search for a bed. Camping was a less than popular option, so when we came upon the campsite offering pension (not pension as in “old age” but pension (fr) as in rooms – ed.)  facilities, there was no competition. The proprietor welcomed us with much smiling and arm waving and general good humour. I am not sure if these smiley people know how much they are appreciated by tired cyclists. It is like a tonic. We have a photo of our host and should you find yourself in Komarom, we would recommend the Hordo Panzio. A fine end to quite a long day.

Maligned Youth

Saturday 16.06 2012    Hainburg – Asvanyraro  (Hungary)  79kms

My apologies to the Hungarians for not having the facility to add in all the accents that are due to Asvanyraro. Nonetheless we did make it into Hungary having passed briefly through Slovakia. Bratislava was an unexpectedly attractive city. I am not sure what we expected, but having passed from Germany to The Czech Republic last year and observed such a change in the urbanisation, we had expected something similar. In fact, Bratislava was as tidy as Austria! The waterfront had been updated and now sported a very modern look. There was not one, but two paths following the river!- one for skaters of whom there were loads, all at various levels of skill, and the other for bikes. You were a bit outnumbered if you were merely walking. We seem to have lost much of the silver brigade though; most of these participants were only in their twenties and thirties. I’m sure we shall find the ancients somewhere. The enterprising set had installed a great number of watering holes which sold mostly drinks, and most of those were beer. It seems you don’t need to eat to keep fit.

In a short time we had crossed another invisible border and we were in Hungary. The most challenging aspect of Hungary thus far has been getting to grips with the currency which deals in such huge figures – one Euro is about 300 forints so a visit to the bank required some careful maths before deciding on the withdrawal. 45,000 seems a massive sum but it’s not, as those of you with the mathematical skill to manipulate the numbers, will realise.

It was a beautiful day with a cloudless sky and temperatures rising rapidly. As ever, there was a down side and today it was old nostril wind blowing at about 25 kms. It was like pedalling the last 50 kilometres with the brakes on! Does get a tad tiring. For reasons best known to all the hotels and guest houses I tried, they were all full. Either I smell very, very bad or they simply haven’t got all rooms operational. Bug….r them, we found a tinsy campsite and approached a number of youths to ask if we could pitch the tent. In short, the answer was yes but there would be a party going on but if we could put up with that, we were welcome. In the absence of any alternative, we accepted and up went the tent.

I have often maintained that youth is much maligned and has gained an unfair reputation. This evening, as we sat mulling over our instant pasta (which was actually okay), two of the party goers arrived with two bowls of Hungarian goulash with fresh bread. We accepted gratefully and a little while later the same two returned with two shot glasses and filled them with some Hungarian type schnapps. These gestures went a long way to compensating for the intermittent shouting which went on until dawn! I did sleep in between and Al snored quietly, unaware of any noise.

Read the Signs

Friday 15.06.2012    Tulln an der Donau – Hainburg  92.5 kms

What a day! Long and interesting.

The beginning – we were packed , dry, fed and away before 09.30. The sun wasn’t actually shining but it was veiled by only a thin layer of cloud. I risked donning my new shirt and shorts - a good move as it turned out. Mr. Master Navigator had spent some time perusing our projected passage through Vienna which looked anything but straight forward. So, with more than 20 kms already completed, we reached the outskirts of Vienna under a full sun (shorts and shirt doing well). Cofftea and buns were consumed for extra energy and concentration. Now, it is not unusual for a map and local paths to be a mismatch. However, this particular mismatch would have required a 100’ leap onto a bridge to have fulfilled its objective. No wings and no other solution than to try another option – like turning back and following the E6 signs which, inevitably, ran out. Head scratching interlude! Fatal! ‘Where are you going?’ asked a young man. Mr. Master Navigator produced his map and to the command of ‘Follow me!’ (where have we heard that before?) we were soon flying through Vienna. A sacrilege I hear some of you cry, but Vienna is another of those cities that require a flight, a posh hotel and lots of dosh, not two old age pensioners on bikes trying to cross Europe. We had seen a disappointing side of the city for we had followed the canal which was shabby and graffiti covered. After we met our guide, there was little time to admire anything else while we concentrated on pursuing the lead bike. 10kms and 30 minutes later, we stopped to breathe, and to bid a grateful farewell to our new friend (a university lecturer apparently). The parting of ways left us eating our lunch in the company of a number of naked men strolling around. I do struggle to find anything attractive about old men wobbling along waving a very small willy.

Now back on track (Mr. Master Navigator in charge again, located our position)  and we left behind the naked naturists.

I think I may have mentioned ‘hoch wasser’ in a former blog and proud we were of our accurate translation. Today a similar sign appeared in our path illustrated this time with a large hand, palm facing and a clear STOP. As the river was markedly lower and more placid today, we ignored the sign! Bad move! Several kilometres further on, the path turned a right angle and would normally have crossed a small stream by means of a bridge. Today a very big stream and no bridge; indeed ‘hoch wasser’! Too far and too lazy to go back, we unhitched the bikes from the trailers and watched a couple in front to ascertain the maximum depth. We didn’t actually want to drown. Knee high- thigh high on my short pins. So, bikes first and then carry each trailer between us. So several crossings later with legs and feet refreshed by their immersion in cold water, we reassembled the duo, put on our shoes and socks and continued on. On, followed and old railway track in  a straight line for 14kms with trees on either side. Mmmm.. not the most absorbing view.

Finally we reached Hainburg, an ancient border town with a very interesting history. My thoughts were more on the present; food and accommodation. Both now satisfied. Tomorrow we will be in Hungary!

Still a Long Way To Go

Thursday 14.06.2012   Rozzatz – Tulln an der Donau      54.2 kms

The sun is shining! Well, it is playing peek a boo with the clouds but we don’t care – the rain has stopped; ceased to fall; no wet stuff! Jolly good show. We were a cheery pair who got underway, with a plan to ride only for half a day, pitch the wet tent, dry everything out and do a spot of general maintenance. For once, a plan has come together. We did smart a bit at the required tariff for a patch of grass, but it is a very green and flat piece of grass. Admittedly, the facilities are of an excellent standard and the sun is still shining.

As soon as Mr. Master Technician had completed the bike servicing, Mr. Master Navigator got out his books and poured over the information available for the next three weeks or so. We had thought we were doing pretty well as we are only a few kilometres from the end of book three. Following that, we have only one more book. This time though, a book which covers not 350 kms but 1,300 kms! So we won’t be back any time soon. I suspect also that the simplicity of following a well- marked route will take on a whole different, and less reliable, aspect onc we leave neat and tidy Austria.

The river was marginally less swollen today and where the tracks had been flooded yesterday, was today just a muddy reminder. Our assumption of the beauty of this valley was correct, although it has now given way to a more open, agricultural and less charming geography. This is a very popular route, it seems, even in June with lots of fast, fat blokes on mountain bikes, lots of the silver brigade on organised rides(with their luggage transported separately), and a few nutcases like us doing more than a few days/weeks. We even overtook a few very old people today!

It is always more difficult to write a blog when all goes well as has happened today. The only very slight mishap was my falling from my bike – no, with my bike as it fell - a couple of scrapes and relief that I was the only witness to this act of stupidity. I was virtually stationary at the time. What a dork.

I even had an hour or so to read my book. Great.

More Rain

Wednesday 13.06.2012  Greiss  - Rossatz    78.6kms

Noo… it didn’t stop raining –not once, all night! This was no ordinary rain; it was tantamount to someone chucking buckets of water over the tent. So big and loud were the drops, it was impossible to hear even the noisiest lorry on the main road not 25 metres away! It seems, we are very slow learners at this camping only in good weather lark. Had it stopped by the morning? Nooo….. Remarkably we were still dry although the same cannot be said of the canvas. However, in orderly fashion, we wheeled trailers undercover to the toilet block and transported all our gear, damp or otherwise, and packed for the day. Ho hum. This abundance of falling water had left much of the campsite underwater which did not bode well for the rest of the day. The question still on our lips is ‘Why on earth were we camping in such horrendous conditions?’ The feeble reply to that is ‘ It wasn’t raining when we put the tent up.’ Less than convincing. The campsite, however, did have a restaurant, which provided a very substantial breakfast at a very substantial cost. Nonetheless, we stoked up for a day in the rain…

We think this was one of the prettiest parts of the trip so far. We cannot be definite about that, but even through a mist, with a grey filter, its potential was obvious. As a result of the storms, the river had risen to spectacular proportions and was an awesome sight. The ferry we had planned to take, wasn’t running (and who can blame the ferryman – the pooh sticks were the size of whole trees- they were whole trees!). So we, along with other disgruntled cyclists returned to a bridge some 3kms upstream in order to cross this raging mass of brown water.

Some short time later, we encountered a sign and understood that ‘hoch wasser’ was not hot water but high water. And this notice didn’t lie. The tunnel, through which we were to pass, was one third full of water. Mmmm… now what? While we stood contemplating and head scratching, a very forthright man pushed passed. A group of cyclist were following him so with no better idea, we tagged on behind, pushing our bikes into the oncoming traffic. We were reassuringly at the back of the group – safety in numbers? Anyway, in a few metres, the track reappeared quite dry and off we set again with renewed vigour. This was to be the first of a number of diversions as a result of flooded paths. If not actually covering the path, the river often lapped within centimetres of our wheels. The vessels actually on the river could barely make way upstream but flashed by in the opposite direction. In fact, the river has been an endless source of fascination today, observing the power of the water. Despite the rain, we have enjoyed a different aspect of the Donau and a gentle day’s riding.

 And still it rained. Determined not to sleep in a tent this night, we found a guest house. Now dry and warm, the rain has stopped! Unbowed, we shall return to the tent if this promised change in the weather materialises. But for now, after sampling the very excellent local wine, we shall sleep soundly and dream of Vienna – our next stop.

Around the World

Tuesday 12.06.2012   Feldkeirchen – Greis   85kms

There wasn’t enough sunshine for my new shorts, in fact longs returned. Maybe I’m just a wimp. Superman was wearing his shorts so was Mr. Master Navigator as he solved all the problems of finding our way through Linz. That big river helped again. As we had made such a great start, we were there in time to stop for coffee/cofftea. Our landlady of the morning was either anxious to share our company or avoid her husband and under her watchful eye, we cleared the rooms and packed the trailers in the garden in the sunshine.

Alan’s little book said that the route we must take this morning, was shared with a road and, while it was safe, it wasn’t very pleasant. How true! That I am writing this blog, is proof that it was safe. (I can’t believe I am writing this in the tent in a thunder storm- more of that later!) To return to the road: we were riding into the oncoming traffic, albeit in a cycle lane and then for extra interest, the train line with trains, ran alongside. At Linz we returned to the river –Whew.

This was also another day of nil response from fellow travellers. Maybe it is just a big city thing. Anyway, I persevered with a smile and a hallo (that’s German for hello) and was rewarded just twice out of countless encounters. Not sure why we have this effect –answers on a postcard. I gave up in the end and was, therefore, taken aback by a voice saying ‘Where are you going?’ while we were in the process of changing maps and admiring a very meaningful sculpture. We turned to greet a young man, with a heavily laden bike, who had just recently commenced a round the world ride. The name of said young man is Rupert Gregory and if you read this, Rupert, we wish you well and will think of you periodically over the next two years and we’ll look forward to reading your articles in Cycling World.

Although we were ostensibly riding downstream, what little incline there was, was cancelled out by a gentle nostril wind. The river today was wide and relatively slow moving and many colossal barges chugged in both directions. In some cases with chug and burp engines that sounded unlikely to make their destination, Svelta Dimitri in particular. A few purred – mostly Swiss.

I mentioned in the blog yesterday that we hoped to cross last year’s path. Well, Al suddenly pulled to a halt in front of me (always dangerous) and said, ‘This is it.’ Sure enough, it was the guest house we had used last year. Very bizarre.

The river has very suddenly narrowed into another gorge which we hope to explore tomorrow – if it ever stops raining!

Past Passau

Monday 11.06.2012      Gaishofen  - Feldkirchen  (15 kms short of Linz)

Sometime today, we passed into Austria, but so obscure was the line, we never even noticed it. What we did notice and enjoy, was the change in the countryside. Today, we were riding through a forested gorge with the river immediately to our right for most of the time. However, before we could enjoy these views, we had first to negotiate Passau. We had sharpened our wits overnight and, in finely honed form, we were up for the challenge. It was all a bit of a damp squib really. Having a ruddy great river to follow probably helped a lot! Apart from a nerve racking road/bridge crossing, it went well. Passau is apparently a very beautiful Bavarian town but viewed from the quayside another picture is painted. The quayside was a jostle of people and souvenir shops. The people were either embarking or disembarking from various river cruisers and the shops were attempting to waylay them before they completed the short journey from coach to cruiser. The latter varied in size, but all were ostentatious. Nonetheless, I am sure they provided a thoroughly pleasant experience for those taking the holiday. (It’s sour grapes really. We thought an up-river cruise would be a relaxing way to finish our holiday but they wouldn’t take bikes! How inconvenient!)

Passau is a beautiful town. Although we saw little of its splendour close up, the views of the old town that we did see, confirmed the comments in the travel brochures. It helped, that for the first time in days, the sun shone intermittently and I was beginning to regret wearing long trousers.

The boat theme stayed with us all day. In addition to the cruisers, the river was more usefully providing a thoroughfare for huge barges. At least one was transporting an entire deck load of cars:  of the other cargoes, we could only speculate as they were contained below deck. Not only cruisers and barges, but ferries played a role in our activities today. There were short sections of the gorge that no self- respecting path could cling to. On these occasions the ferryman and of course, his ferry, provided the means to continue. We took to the water twice, the first time in the wake of a barge, and the wash it caused reminded us of our sea legs.

It has been a beautiful experience today, and the rain has still held off! As usual, our search for accommodation was left to opportunity. Opportunity was not on our side, but with the help of a local restaurant owner, we have met a dear old Austrian lady who has made us welcome in a room. Well, three rooms actually!

Tomorrow we cross the path we followed last year (all things being equal) and will find ourselves more than half way to this year’s destination. Keeping our fingers crossed for a bit more sunshine. I want to wear my new shorts!

Any Old Excuse

Sunday 10.06.2012  Straubing  -  Gaishofen  (just short of Passau)  85kms

For the more astute of you, you will have noted from the date that we actually took the day off yesterday. The hotel that we finally decided upon on Friday was such a friendly and accommodating place, the town was big enough to sort shopping and no one seemed to mind a bit if we cleaned the bikes and trailers, did the washing and hung it on a conveniently hot towel rail, so we stayed an extra day. (We cannot recommend highly enough ‘Hotel Gaubodenhof’  in Straubing).  We are doing very well with guest houses but very badly with campsites! This is bad news for the budget, but the weather has been truly appalling. We spent the whole of this morning getting soaked and then very damp this afternoon.  And things are not looking very encouraging this evening. So, here we are in another very nice Gasthaus. We’ll be keeping the German economy going all on our own at this rate.

Despite the rain, the ride today has been pretty and generally close to the river. I’m sure it would have been spectacular had we been able to see further. For the most part it was fairly easy going and pretty quiet. (After all, why on earth would you go for a ride in the rain when you could stay in and watch the tele?) Why we bothered to clean the bikes is also a bit of a mystery. It was a well- intentioned but fruitless exercise as they are filthy again after another section of muddy track! Heigh ho, at least they are only encrusted in one day’s dirt.

We are a few kilometres short of Passau. Traversing that city is a project for lively minds, legs and 20:20 vision. Not sure who is going to do it – doesn’t sound too much like us! Should we succeed, we shall be in Austria where Alan can still use his vast knowledge of the German language – “Zwei bier bitte.”Excellent beer it is too. Cheers!