Monday 26. 09. 2016
La Tranche sur Mer – Chatelaillon Plage ( 92 kms )
Why is it that people with no charm and no apparent fondness
for their fellow man insist on following a career in hospitality? I completely
understand that my host was obliged to rise early in order to lay out my
breakfast but a smile, even an insincere one, would have been a pleasant greeting!
Ignoring such grumpiness, by 08.30 I was retrieving bike and bits from the
overnight lockup. Notable at this time of the morning was the slow dawning of
daylight; it was also a good deal chillier than the previous evening when I had
spent a comfortable half hour drinking a beer (quite a small one )at the café on
the other side of the road. This morning I returned to a very cheery barman who
sold me a can of Orangina and sent me off with a smile and a ‘bonne route’.
So, today has been an experience and an education in very
different road surfaces: everything from baby bottom smooth (not much of that) to real bone shakers and
single wheel tracks. Thus I spent quite a lot of the ride looking down, trying
to avoid punctures and, more importantly remaining upright.
It was also a day of very flat lands and, if birds were your
thing, there was a plethora of different species which sadly I do not have the expertise
to identify except by size and colour although they did seem to have in common
a love of mud and slush. They were the natural inhabitants of this curious
environment unlike the vast machine I encountered shortly after ignoring a ‘route
barre’ sign. It was the size of a small bungalow and was devouring the hedgerow
growing alongside the canal. And these hedges were really small trees up to 2
or 3 metres high. It has to be said that this was an awesome spectacle if
unsettling to see how quickly nature could be destroyed. The purpose of all
this activity escaped me although it appeared that the canal was undergoing a
widening process which may have been necessary to retain adequate drainage of
the marais. I know not.
Equally extraordinary but entirely natural was the sudden
appearance of a cliff in an otherwise completely flat landscape. Dredging up
sparse knowledge from an old Open University Degree, I could only speculate
that this had once been in the sea. On the summit stood a village called La
Dive and I have since researched the name and discovered that it was indeed an
island at a time when the sea covered this area. I had nurtured a hope that the
name might involve bungie jumping. Mmmmm.
As I left the flat lands and met the canal path I
encountered a very polite middle aged male cyclist waiting patiently for me to complete
a short but narrow descent. He spotted my Welsh flag and my Welsh cycling vest
and embarked on a conversation thankfully in English, well, Irish. He enquired
after my venture and then explained that he had caught the ferry to Santander
and was making his way north to St. Malo and then back to the Emerald Isle. We
wished each other well and continued in our opposite directions.
I have included a photograph in this day’s blog which illustrates
a very bizarre form of fishing. People without fishing lines but with huge nets
which they hurled into the canal Maritime on a rising tide and then proceeded
to frantically winch back in using a curious winding gear. The fish which were
the object of the exercise were apparently mullet although in the short time I
spent observing this activity I saw not a one either in or out of the water.
Thereafter, I followed some twenty kilometres of various
canals on boneshaker tracks! Hurrah! It was, therefore, almost a pleasure to
reach human habitation in the form of La Rochelle. During a short break earlier
in the summer we had taken the motor home to Chatelaillon Plage and I had
ridden the cycle path from there to La Rochelle. I remembered it well, and so
that which might have caused a getting lost situation, was avoided. A final
thrust along the coast and I arrived in Chatelaillon Plage with the sun still
shining and the tide coming in. Content to end the day here, I stopped at the
first hotel, Le Rivage, where I requested a room for me and one for my bike.
Having deposited said bike and unloaded my gear, my return to reception was
greeted with a bottle of ice cold water and an energy bar. I guess I must have
made a hot and dusty impression but what a response! Many thanks to a very thoughtful receptionist.
After a shower, and a remarkably good salmon and rice salad
from Carrefour washed down with an exceedingly small bottle of wine, I look
forward to tomorrow with a growing confidence.
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